Question about Mtd Products Yard Machines 158CC Tiller

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I'm trying to remove the old steering shaft that had a worn out worm gear on the end of the shaft. There is no room for removal, the worm gear is pressed on and can't be removed to allow pulling the shaft out through the steering console. Will not go through the flange bearing opening on the bottom under the deck either. help

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It may seem like it won't go, but it will angle out past the engine. Pull the shaft up a bit and angle it out the side between the engine and dash.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Hi, I have a Kitchenaid stand up mixer custom edition 500 watt model #Kd2661xmc that sounds fine when I don't have anything in it, but sounds like its crying when I put just a single cake mix in it. ...


Get A Copy of the Repair Parts List for your model at Kitchenaid.com.
Remove the Gearcase Motor Housing (1) & the Transmission Housing (7)
Remove the 2 screws (23) holding down the Motor (2) and lift off way from
the Worm Gear (17). Test run the motor by itself at different speeds.
If it runs fine then it's time to inspect all the gears in the Transmission
Housing(7). Remove all the brown Grease covering the gears.
Pay attention in particular to the teeth of the Worm Follower Gear (19).
(the Bevel Gear (21) sits on top of this gear)
They should not be worn out or chipped. If they are then this is the source
of the noises you're hearing (the Worm Gear is grinding away the teeth of
the Worm Follower Gear). Once the Follower is replaced, your mixer will
be just as new again.
Please Note that this replacement is not an easy task. You need the right
tools and don't use a hard object like a steel screwdriver to pry out the
Planetary plate (15) from the beater shaft. Before re-assembly, use only
fresh new Food Grade Grease from Kitchenaid (the old grease may contain
metal filings from the worn out gear that will damage your new one)

Jul 22, 2011 | KitchenAid KSM150PS Artisan Series Stand...

1 Answer

How to replace a steering rack? do i really have to loosen the bolts to the engine cradle to gain access?


Power Steering Gear Replacement
Removal Procedure


  1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  2. Remove the tires and wheels.
  3. Remove the stabilizer shaft links from the control arms.
  4. Remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.

5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt from the power steering gear.

  1. Remove the stabilizer shaft.

7. Remove the power steering hoses from the from the power steering gear.

8. Remove the power steering gear bolts from the frame.

  1. Remove the power steering gear through the left wheel opening.

Feb 06, 2011 | 2001 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Hobart a200 will run just fine without anything in the bowl, once I pour my ingredients into the bowl, it wouldn't even mix the ingredients. Try all 3 gears.


Short answer: something is worn/broken inside the mixer's transmission.

Longer answer:

Since none of the three gears operate, the problem is most likely on either the worm gear shaft (probably the brass worm gear itself) or the "transmission shaft" (ironic name as all three shafts could be called transmission shafts). If you're up to the task of disassembling the transmission, which is a very messy task, you'd probably find the problem on one of the two smaller shafts inside the transmission. You'll most likely find either a broken key or worn brass worm gear. Both of these items may have enough holding strength to operate under very light loads (such as an empty bowl) but slip once a load is presented.
Also check the planetary key. Remove the planetary by removing two nuts on the underside of the transmission, where the attachments attach (careful, as the whole thing will drop once the second, thin nut is removed). You will find a long key on the shaft (or in the planetary gear, whichever one it sticks to). Make sure it's not broken, and re-attach the planetary.

Aug 12, 2010 | Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

1 Answer

I have a 1974 ford 2000 3 cly. tractor. recently having steering problems. (with manual steering) when turning the steering wheel to the right the stering wheel just spins with no resistance but turing it...


As I recall the worm gears are secured on the shaft via a shear pin. I would sugest changing the pins with ones that may end up being over spec size but could account for slipage in only one direction.

Jun 15, 2010 | 2007 Ford F

2 Answers

I have a 1984 jeep cj7 and it is having trouble turning, it feels like it is slipping and wont turn, like something is not catching, can anyone help


1. THE STEERING GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTMENT TOO LOOSE OR SHAFT AND OR BUSHING BADLY WORN 2 .EXCESSIVE GEAR WORM END PLAY DUE TO BEARING ADJUSTMENT 3.STEERING LINKAGE LOOSE OR WORN. 4.FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED. 5 STEERING ARM LOOSE ON STEERING GEAR SHAFT. 6. STEERING GEAR HOUSING ATTACHING BOLTS LOOSE. 7.STEERING ARMS LOOSE AT STEERING KNUCKLES. 8.WORKING PINS OR BUSHINGS. 9.LOOSE SPRING SHACKLES.THIS IS 9 POSSIBLE CAUSES THAT WILL CAUSE STEERING TO BE TOO LOOSE.

Nov 10, 2009 | 1984 Jeep CJ7

1 Answer

I have a 1994 chevy k1500 4x4 and need to change pitman arm


Take the bolts out that attach the steering box to the frame and pivot the box so you can fit the puller on.
Leave the steering shaft and power steering hoses attached.
Mark the new pitman arm and old one in the same place and mark the pitman shaft to keep the same position of the new pit man arm on the old shaft as the old pitman arm.

Sep 06, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

Need a drawing of the worm shaft and spool valve assy.


closest I have is 94 explorer. may be similar.

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Item Part Number Description 1 3E501 Steering Gear Sector Shaft Seal 2 3524 Steering Gear Input Worm Gear and Rack 3 3647 Steering Gear Worm Ball 4 3523 Steering Gear Ball Return Guide 5 3A670 Steering Gear Worm Thrust Bearing Adjuster 6 — Locknut (Part of 3577) 7 3571 Steering Gear Worm Thrust Bearing 8 3575 Steering Gear Sector Shaft 9 3524 Steering Gear Input Worm Gear and Rack

May 09, 2009 | 1983 Ford F 250

4 Answers

Tine shaft removal for mantis 2 cycle tiller


Put the tiller in a vise clamping on the bottom of worm gear housing. Remove worm gear housing cover. Clamp the worm gear at the top with a vise grip (I think Kuya Jon is correct in that you could skip this step because the transmission won't move when unscrewing, but I did it anyway just in case). Put a pipe wrench on the left tine shaft and unscrew it like it was a normal bolt. It's in there tight and it will take some force. When I unscrewed mine, the left bearing seal retainer, left bearing seal, and left bearing all came out with it. I just needed to replace the seals. I went to the right side, and with a screw driver carefully pried out the retainer. Then it's easy to just pull out the right seal with your finger. Put a new right seal in and insert the right retainer. Make sure the retainer is facing the correct way. I used a block of wood to tap mine in once I had it positioned because I was afraid to hit the retainer with a hammer. Now I put the tine shaft back in while holding the worm gear with the vise grip. Screw the shaft as far as it will go by hand and then go the rest of the way with a pipe wrench. Now came the tricky part. The right bearing did not slide right in. There was some resistance. I had to use a 1/2" threaded pvc pipe (not sure it needs to be threaded but that's what worked for me) longer than the tine shaft that was sticking out. I slip the pipe over the shaft against the bearing and tapped with a hammer. This drove the bearing in all the way. It needs to go in far enough to leave room for the seal and retainer. The plastic pvc allowed for this. Now put the right seal in. If the outer edge of the seal is only flush with the housing you did not tap the bearing in far enough. I made this mistake on my first try and tried to force the retainer in. Take it from me. It won't work. You will end up ordering another retainer to replace the one you mangled. Once in properly I slid the retainer over the shaft and then put a washer over that to tap against. The block of wood doesn't work on this side because the shaft is in the way. I used my pvc pipe again to tap against the washer and, wala, it worked like a charm. I hope this helps someone. All the other posts really helped me. Thanks!

May 01, 2009 | Mantis 2-Cycle Tiller

2 Answers

How to change inner tie rod ends?


if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
  • If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  • If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal
  1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
  1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
  1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .


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  1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
  1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Support flex pipe.
  1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
  1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
  1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
  1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
  1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
  1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
  1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
  1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
  1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
  1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
  1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
  1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
  1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
  1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
  1. Install ******** heat shield.
  1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
  1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
  1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
  1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
  1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
  1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
  1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.

Apr 15, 2009 | 1997 Ford Windstar

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