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THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
this seems to be a major issue with whirlpool and kitchenaid multiple door refrigerators. The defrost timer device on the compressor does not function properly or fails and the cooling coils freeze up. Check the little fan that pulls air through the freezer coils to make sure it is running (that cools the refridg) if not running then it is bad and causing problem. Otherwise you have another bad defrost relay on the compressor. It's easy to change and cost about $25 at the parts store. I just defrost mine every six months or so since none of the ones I tried work very well. Its just a bad design that is still propagating in whirlpool devices.
Do you have other appliance or other things on the same circuit? If not your refrigerator compressor may be shorting to ground causing the breaker to trip. Test the compressor with instructions below. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the back panel that covers the compressor. There should be 3 wires going inside the cover of the compressor. Mark all 3 and mark their location so if compressor is OK you can put them back in same order. The plastic cover may snap on and you may need to squeeze the sides to unlock the cover and sometimes there is a metal clip holding the cover in place. Remove the cover. May look hard but it's simple. There will be three connections under the cover and 2 will go through the start relay. Unplug them leaving the three prongs exposed. They may be marked R =Run, S=Start and C=Common. Set your meter on continuity and then begin by testing 2 at a time until you have checked S to R and R to C an C to S and S to R again. You should get a reading all the way around. If no reading between any of the pairs as you go around you should get no reading between any two the compressor has an open winding and is defective. Then if it passes that test then touch one probe to R and the other to the copper pipes or clean metal on outside of compressor, then S to metal outside and C to metal outside. If you get a reading this way even just a little. The compressor is a burnout. Then let me know what you find. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Hello there Some refrigerators are very
quiet and smooth when they operate. If you cannot hear your refrigerator
running or feel the compressor vibrating, you must investigate further. First, try turning the cold
control to the "off" position or unplugging the fridge; this will
stop the compressor. Do you hear or feel a difference? If so, the compressor was
running. WAIT SEVERAL MINUTESat leasst 10 minutes before turning the compressor back on for your
If you perform the above test
and do not feel a difference, try "listening with a screwdriver."
Access the compressor by opening the back panel and place the metal end of a
long screwdriver against the compressor and your ear against the plastic end
of the screwdriver. You should hear the compressor running. If you are still
unsure and you own an amp meter test the current draw of
the compressor at the compressor leads. If the compressor is running, it
should draw about 6 amps. If your compressor is running
and your refrigerator is warm in both compartments (or not as cold as usual,
i.e. chilly but meats are thawing,) first check your CONTROLS. You never know
if your kids got in there and messed around with them. Set them on mid-range
settings. . Inside either the freezer or
refrigerator compartment you will generally find at least two dial type
controls. One of them, called the cold
control, is an electric switch that starts and stops the compressor based on
the temperature that it senses inside the compartment. The other dial is an air door
that controls the small amount of air that passes to the food compartment
while the evaporator fan is running. Next, check your condenser and
condenser fan. type
condenser mount may be used on bottom-freezer, top-freezer or side-by-side
units. condenser has no
condenser fan. Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is
replaced by cooler air from below. Some of these condensers are covered by a
metal plate. bottom-mounted condensers come in many
configurations. Most look like a radiator or grille beneath the fridge,
behind the kickplate. They are accessible for cleaning through the bottom
front of the refrigerator. A condenser fan moves air across these condensers. If you have a back-condenser
refrigerator, make sure that nothing has fallen behind your fridge that might
block the airflow. If you have a bottom condenser,
remove the baseplate (kickplate) from the bottom front of the refrigerator
and look beneath it with a powerful flashlight. If you have kids or dogs or
if your clothes dryer is installed nearby, you are a prime candidate to have
a blocked condenser. i will post more in the next post
ck the main power board as i think its failed .. ( in the back under a metal cover plate . ) board has fuses on it and will cause your problem when failed . the fuses are not a service part .. the p c control board is . mm hope this helps / feed back please ..
If it's on and running with both the fan motor in the freezer compartment behind the rear panel, and the condenser cooling fan next to the compressor in the back, bottom rear is running, then yes the compressor may have failed internally or there is a loss of refrigerant.
If the machine is under 5 years of age, then it is still covered by factory warranty. I would call Sears if it is under 5 years, otherwise a reputable service tech from an independent service company.
First be sure to unplug frig. Remove the cardboard cover that covers
most backs of the frig units. Remove the plastic cover that is on the
side of compressor. It is held on with a metal clip. Now you should be
able to see the relay pry the relay straight off. note the wiring and
position of relay. Only three prongs on compressor. Go to a parts house
for appliance's and with your make and model number should be able to
get a new one. Let me know if you need any more help. ken
IS THE BACK OF THE FREEZER CLEAR ICE OR WHITE FROST?
IF IT IS WHITE FROST, THERE IS A FAILURE OF THE DEFROST CYCLE. THREE COMPONENTS NEED TO BE CHECKED. THERE IS A DEFROST TIMER, HEATER AND BI-METAL. THE HEATER AND BI-METAL ARE LOCATED BEHIND THE BACK WALL OF THE FREEZER WHERE THE FROST IS BUILDING UP. IF IT IS A WHIRLPOOL, THE TIMER IS LOCATED IN THE FRESH FOOD COMPARTMENT WITH THE COLD CONTROL. LOOK FOR A HOLE THE SIZE OF A DIME IN THE CONTROL HOUSING. THERE IS A SMALL DIAL IN THERE THAT CAN BE ADVANCED WITH A SCREWDRIVER.
ADVANCE IT UNTIL YOU HEAR A STRONG CLICK AND THE
REFRIGERATOR SHUTS OFF. THAT WILL BE IN THE DEFROST CYCLE. WAIT ABOUT TEN MINUTES AND LISTEN FOR SIZZLING IN THE FREEZER COMPARTMENT. ALSO LOOK FOR A RED/ORANGE GLOW IN THE FREEZER. IF THAT HAPPENS, THE HEATER AND BI-METAL ARE O.K.
REPLACE THE TIMER. IF NOT, TAKE THE BACK PANEL OFF THE FREEZER AND CHECK THE HEATER AND BI-METAL WITH A VOLT-OHM METER. REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE PART.
ON G.E. REFRIGERATORS, SOME HAVE THE TIMER LOCATED BEHIND THE TOE PLATE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE REFRIGERATOR. ON OTHER REFRIGERATORS, IT IS LOCATED INSIDE THE COMPRESSOR COMPARTMENT TUCKED BACK IN A CORNER.