It has lost partially the mechanical connection between the volume control knob and the volume control pot.
When I turn the volume control down it seems to"slip" ....the knob turns but the volume does now go down. The volume on the remote works fine. I believe I just have to tighten the mechanical connection at the knob.
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Doesn't sound like a fuse. They don't fix themselves when you reach 75%.
Try shaking the volume knob while in the 30-50% range and/or try (with the power off) rotating the volume knob numerous times from 0% to 100%. If when you plug it back in it responds ANY differently, you might have a bad volume potentiometer. If when you shake the knob you hear static or intermittent sound, you have a bad volume pot.
The only other thing I can think of is that the wiper of the volume pot is not in contact with the windings inside the pot until you reach the 75% mark. When the volume comes on at 75%, does it start off kind of "static" then come in loud and clear? Also try this.... adjust the volume pot to 74% (or when the sound just begins to come on). At this point shake the knob. If you hear static, replace the volume pot.
Unplugging it when still on shouldn't cause any damage... in fact it probably hasn't considering it works at 75% plus.
It seems likely that the pot (volume control) is dirty. with a slider you can normally get fluid down the side of the knob, your's is a rotary control and you sometimes can do it round the shaft of the pot but more often have to spray it in where the connections go into the pot. You'll need some contact cleaner spray which you can get online or from an electronics store, get it onto the pot track and then take the pot to each end of its travel a few times, this'll probably sort it out until next time. If you're taking it apart it might be worth just getting a new and better pot and soldering that in if you are hand with a soldering iron. The ones in Mackies nowdays are pretty sh1t.
Behind the volume Knob you have an unconventional and completely closed dust-proof potentiometer which allows for endless 360 degree rotation. After simply pulling the big Vol knob from the panel you must unscrew the nut from the "potentiometer". Easy operation. Now, from the backside you can carefully release it from the panel (in my case it was a bit stuck). It comes out with a small piece of printed circuit board which is tightly fasten through a short cable to the display panel which limits the movements of the released circuit board. With very light hands and finding a way to give the circuit board some mechanical stability you must unsolder the "pot" (2 chassis points + three connections, I advise to do it with the aid of a small vacuum desoldering tool). Even much more carefully you are suggested to disassemble the square format "pot" (4 bent clamps) so you can get into the heart of the beast. If you still have a good eye you will see on one piece a rotor with about 24 (I was not able to exactly count it) copper radiuses and on the other piece 3 + 1 ultra tiny almost invisible brushes aimed to contact with the copper radiuses. Clean both components VERY well and VERY CAREFULLY (I did it with alcohol and a napkin, it seemed to me that some kind of grease of the rotor flowed in) and reassemble the mechanism, weld it on the print board and fasten the "pot+circuit board" to the panel through its nut. Put the Vol knob on the "pot" spindle and it should work as new until receiver's end of life! (hopefully!). I found some similar "potentiometers" in the Internet to buy (perhaps better alternative to clean the mechanism) but no way to get the right specification. If it comes to that point perhaps you must try to find a "pot" with same size, number of connections and around 24 pulses per revolution (or something similar).
Does the jack have any wires connected to it? Can you tell where the disconnected wires originate? Typically, the wire from the middle ear of the volume pot should go to the tip of the jack, and the wire from the back of the tone pot goes to the sleeve of the output jack. You will get no output if either of these wires are disconnected. Also, the next question is "why" did they come loose? That's usually because one of the pots is not tightened down, and is allowed to spin when the volume or tone knob is turned, breaking the wire's contact. Pull the knob off the pot, and tighten the nut down so the pot can't turn. This will assure you won't have the same problem again.
On volume control potentiometer carbon layer wears out with time. The easiest way would be to clean it with spirit. Turn off the unit, remove the knob, spray spirit on volume control then turn the knob back and forth around a minute, should work after. Also you can disassemble CD player and resolder pot contacts on the board, when pressure constantly applied from outside, contacts get loosen. And the best way will be to replace the pot.
That is a dirty pot switch.. The volume adjusting pot gets dirty.. Two things to try..
1.) With the unit off - spinn the volume min to max many many times at a rapid pace.. This sometimes will displace the debris in the pot..
If that does not work --
2.) Get some "tuner cleaner" in a spray can.. At Radio Shack or a similar store.. Lay the radio on its back so the volume knob is facing up.. Pull the knob off carefully.. Use short controlled bursts of the spray.. A few sprays and spin the knob min to max several times and repeat..
PLease dont forget to rate for your free question..
I just picked up one at the dump. You have to take apart the front end by unscrewing screws and pulling out ribbon edge connections. It is easier than some components. Then pry off two of the small clamp downs on the front of the volume potentiometer; pry apart about 1/32 of an inch and spray control cleaner for a second and clamp down. repeat on other side.
worked for me.