Question about Maytag MBF2556HEW / MBF2556HEB / MBF2556HEQ Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Refrigerator is warm, but freezer works. Coils are frozen.

Our refrigerator is getting too warm. The freezer is still working, but when you look at the back panel you can see the frost/ice on the coils. We have to use a hairdryer to melt the ice and it's good for a week or so. Then the same problems happens again.

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You are having a defrost problem, probably needs if it is a maytag, it probably needs a control.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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Samsung sidexside refrigerator model RS263TDBP refrigerator warm freezer fine. Replaced fan on refrigerator evap coils, still not working. Help


Check the diverted box in fresh food side. Some of them have an electric flapper that opens to let cold air in to maintain temp in fresh food side. If coils are not frozen up then that is the next thing I would look at. The flap might not be opening up,

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Is the fan running? Could also be that the freezer coils are frozen up and not auto defrosting. There is a timer in the frig that controls that. Could also be the thermostat.

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Freezer and fridge is warm, cold air blowing but freezer is still


Try this, I went to the freezer side pulled the inside back panel (had to defrost it to get it out) and it was completely frozen over. It was not not operating properly because the cooling coils would not allow the fan to pull air through them to cool the refrigerator side. I completely defrosted the coils and turned the refrigerator back on, it worked fine. I then ordered a new adaptive defrost assembly (this is the thing that prevents the ice buildup) since ours was apparently not working properly. I used a fan too speed up the defrost process, because i had to take all the frozen food out and put it in a cooler to get to the back panel. After you take out the racks and food you only need to remove two screws that have a 1/4' head. good luck.

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Refrigerator on the fritz


The defroster is not working. Ice build up prevents cold air from the freezer chest from blowing into the lower part.

The way the defroster works is this: There is a defrost timer, probably found under the refrigerator at the front, that turns on the defroster three times per day or so. That turns on a heater nested among the freezer coils. It keeps heating until the defrost thermostat gets warm; then it quits defrosting.

I think your defrost timer doesn't turn. You can turn it with a screw driver till you hear a click. Now your ice compartment should be defrosting. With ice buildup it may need lots and lots of defrosting. You might not get cooling back into the lower part for awhile, till the ice buildup melts.

By the preceding, you should know if the defrost timer needs replacing.

If you should need to manually defrost the freezer coils, they are, I think, under the floor of the freezer. To defrost them, I'm told, a hair drier works better than boiling water. The defrost thermostat is in there too, a one inch unit with two wires. It should have no continuity warm, closed circuit frozen. If it has open circuit frozen, that would be your problem.


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Refrigerator won't get cold


You likely have a defrost cycle failure. The freezer's cooling coils need to be frosty and cold so the air that the fan pulls over them can cool the fridge section. If the defrost cycle fails, the coils freeze up to a block of ice and air flow suffers (fridge is about 55 degrees F). The freezer stays cold only because there's a block of ice in there now... sometimes that cold "sinks" to the bottom and only the food at the bottom stays frozen (and can even freeze food at the bottom of the fridge compartment while the rest is warm). To be sure, you'll need to take the rear interior panel off the freezer back wall and check the coils to see if they are frozen solid. If they are then there's a defrost cycle failure. If they are showing a nice white frosty pattern evenly all over the coils then that's normal and maybe the evap fan (right above the coils) is not blowing air up properly or is not working at all. That fan should run if the compressor is running, etc. the only time it doesn't run is during an actual defrost cycle. Once you find out what condition the coils are in it should be simple to direct you further on the problem.

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