Question about Dryers
No heat is being produced by the dryer. I have fixed thois problem previously by replacing the ceramic glow igniter, but that was many years ago. I would like help with directions how I get access to the igniter in the dryer to replace it. Please include instructions how to open the cabinet and location of the igniter.
HI thanks for your question. no clicking sound when you turn it on. check the thermal fuse at the back on the air duct. a small plastic piece of plastic with 2 blue wires to it. replace this part. thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks
Posted on Oct 09, 2008
Hi, UNPLUG the dryer. This model you need to remove the two
screws under the lint screen. Now use a flat blade screw drive and insert it in
the gap between the top and the front panel and pry the top up. Now locate and
remove the screws on the inside of the front panel in upper corners. The front
should lift off. You will see the ignitor attached to the burner. There is a harness you can unplug to test it. If the dryer is not heating at all, before you remove the front panel, you can remove the cap on the front lower panel and start the dryer. Look inside the holw and see if the ignitor glows at all.
If it glows and then shut down before the flame lights, you will need to change the coils on top the gas valve, not the ignitor.
If the ignitor does not glow at all, you will want to test the thermo fuse before the ignitor.
Normal 0 UNPLUG the dryer! Remove the rear panel of the dryer and locate the fuse. It is white and ¼” wide and 3” long. It is located on the blower housing. Remove the wires and check to see if it has continuity. If it does not, you need to replace it. I know this is a lot of info but these are most common problems.
If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
The ignition coils located on the gas valve or the flame sensor located on the burner assembly is the problem. Both inexpensive repairs.
Posted on May 14, 2010
I have the same model of dryer and the same problem and no experience in fixing any appliances. I took a few screws off the top and the front, opened the dryer by rotating it forward, and found a red button (a fuse or breaker?) close to what I figured would be the heat sink. Pressed the button, it clicked, and decided to put it all back together. First load worked fine, hopefully that was all it needed. Good luck and hope this is all you have to do too.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
SOURCE: no heat from dryer
Symptom: Electric Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block.
The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC.
The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms.
This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord.
Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer.
Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason.
You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation.
If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing.
All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail.
This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH.
When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home.
It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER.
After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer.
This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not.
Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it.
If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely.
I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires.
These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips.
They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.
(HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier).
If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models.
This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component.
NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time.
They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
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