Question about KitchenAid KEHC379 Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

I was going to use the microwave then the light flickered and went out, now when i use it I get a "Door" message and it wont start. It;s a Kitchen Aid KEHC379

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  • samuel_corte Jun 15, 2009

    Hi,



    I did that before posting, sorry but it still gives me the same error.



    Thanks though!

  • samuel_corte Jun 16, 2009

    I guess the next obvious question is how do i check that? Do i remove the face?.. not sure.

  • samuel_corte Jun 16, 2009

    Thank you i did hard reset it and that didn't work. I may need to get someone to service the unit since i dont know were the sensor.

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  • Master
  • 749 Answers

Make shure the door is properly closed if it is it looks the the doors sensor is not fully working, you will have to the the sensor replaced, try hard resetting it , unplug it for 30mins and try again.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

  • Muzzammil Ishfaq
    Muzzammil Ishfaq Jun 16, 2009

    That will be a good idea

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  • Master
  • 378 Answers

Check door switch it maybe dirty, no contact or maybe your door not properly close.

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

  • Darial Jr Lasaria
    Darial Jr Lasaria Jun 16, 2009

    okay check the wiring to the door switch.

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I'm posting this as a solution after I went through several different web sites to and trial & error to fix my "DOOR" error code problem.
The original question I submitted can be summarized: I need to replace the 15A interlock fuse. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

Here's the answer for the KitchenAid KEMC308K series.
1) The service manual is behind the control panel on the left hand side. For my built-in, I turned off the power and removed the oven from the cabinet, exposing the sheet metal shroud. Remove the top piece and there on the left hand side is the service manual.
2) The manual indicates the fuse is in the right rear of the microwave. This is correct, but it is actually accessible through the right side.

As long as I slogged though this, I thought some other people would like to know how to solve the "door" error problem. It could be caused by a faulty control panel, but before going there, the check the switches and fuse in the door interlock circuit. Check this link for a discussion: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/switch.html

Repair steps:
Remove the rear sheet metal shroud and you see nothing but the back and side of the microwave. Remove the right sheet metal shroud and expose the right side of the microwave. This panel has a bunch of warnings, heed them. However, the are missing one: SHARP EDGES. Think about putting tape on the exposed sheet metal edges. Remove the panel and expose the "guts" of the microwave: Rectifier, wave guide, magnetron, capacitor, and such. The interlock fuse is next to the capacitor contacts. Safely discharge the capacitor (method described in numerous places via google search and the link http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html ).

After the capacitor is discharged, remove the fuse, verify it is blown using an ohm meter (ceramic fuse - you can't see inside). The fuse is actually (despite what the tech manual says) a 20A 250V fuse. Available at radio shack in a pack of 4 for $2.99. Install the new fuse.

As long as you have this much done, may as well ensure that the microswitches still work. Remove the contacts from the microswitch. There are 2 close to each other. From the 3rd contact to these, one should open when the other should be closed. Ensure that this is true and that when the switch is depressed, the state reverses (the contact that was open is now close & connects to the common). Do this for both door-closed sensing microswitches and replace the wiring to the microswitches. Replace all the microwave side panels and the sheet metal shroud. Turn on the breaker and hopefully, as it was on mine, the "DOOR" error message is gone and it starts up normally.

Oh, when the power comes on the unit runs a self test, lots of blinking lights followed by a power-failure error code when the power comes on. I think it was pf .d=30. Hit cancel and it goes away.

So, this is a pain to do b/c there are about 40 sheet metal screws to deal with and one has to be careful discharging the cap. Pulling the oven out of the cabinet was the hardest part. I build a table at the same height and just slid the entire unit right onto my "work table." If I had to do it again, I'd have the entire thing done in under 30 minutes.

Hope this helps someone else!
sb

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