Top drawer leaks on floor

If your Fisher Paykel DD60 dishwasher is beeping when it needs to drain, it may be experiencing a drainage issue. Here are some steps you can try to diagnose and fix the problem:

1. Check for Blockages: Make sure that there are no blockages in the drainage hose or filter. A blocked drainage hose or filter can prevent the dishwasher from draining properly, which can trigger the beeping sound. Remove any blockages that you find.
2. Check the Drain Pump: The drain pump may be faulty, which can prevent the dishwasher from draining properly. Check the pump to ensure that it is functioning correctly. If the pump is not working, it may need to be replaced.
3. Check the Drain Valve: The drain valve may be faulty, which can prevent the dishwasher from draining properly. Check the valve to ensure that it is functioning correctly. If the valve is not working, it may need to be replaced.
4. Check the Control Board: The control board is the brain of the dishwasher and controls all the functions. If it is faulty, it can cause the dishwasher to not operate correctly. Try resetting the control board or replacing it if it is faulty.
5. Check the Sensor: The sensor may be faulty, which can cause the dishwasher to beep when it needs to drain. Try cleaning the sensor or replacing it if it is faulty.

If none of the above steps work, it may be best to contact a professional technician for further diagnosis and repair. They can inspect the dishwasher thoroughly and ensure that it is working correctly and safely.

If you hear the motor sound during drain cycle then it is likely the drain hose is cracked and pump cannot generate enough pressure to empty the drawer. You will have to find the cracked portion of the hose and replace it. It appears the bottom drawer is operating properly.

check your kitchen drain as it might be blocked or if you have a garbage disposal (kitchen insinkerator) make sure it is cleared before running the dishwasher.

Hi,
You may have clogged pump to the drawer. open drawer, lay on your back under the dish drawer, removed the black cover (3 screws) remove 2 screws to the pump and allow the water to drain out into a bucket or bowl. make sure the pump can turn easy. Reassemble and test unit again. If fails, replace pump.
Pump
I hope this helps, good luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Mine too!! Very annoying, especially since the water then drains down onto to floor and has actually made the door hinges stiff! I just use powdered bleach now.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

It is good that you identify the leak from the top drawer. Now it time to clean it. Pull out the tube. Near the bottom there is a squares tab on both sides. Press these tab so the tube could be pulled further out so you can lift the tube out of the rails. Push these rails in then you can lower the tube to the floor to dry out the wetness inside the housing. You can use the bottom drawer while deciding to fix the top drawer by yourself or call the F&P serviceman. If you decide to do your own then need to order the Lid seal with YOKE and a pair of actuators. THe original problem is the actuators,not holding down the lid seal so there was a leak. However, when it is bad it causes the lid tilted in one side then damages the seal from the lid. If you don't mind the time, when you replace the actuators keep original lid in until it leak the replace with a new lid. WHen change the new lid you have to change the YOKE since the replacement had a new design better than the original so they are different. Good Luck.

Fisher and Paykel design a air gap kit to prevent the water back flowing to the other while one is running. it really works and worth of your money. You need to change the lid seal and a pair of actuators from the top drawer. Because of the leak then the floor switch activated not allowing a complete cycle. Need to dry out the wetness from the bottom housing of both top and lower drawers by pulling the tubes out and accessing from the left side with small tower until it completely dry. Here is a link to buy air gap kit http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.