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Proform 980cs treadmill button not working

Button not working

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: I have the proform 7.0 personal fitness trainer

Try to calibrate the incline threough the calibration mode.

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Proform 450 X treadmill powers on, but trips current when started

There could be a combination of problems. I would first start with disconecting the motor leads and see if it trips the breaker. Then elevation motor would be next if no change from disconecting motor. More than likely it's a motor issue.

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Proform 520

Not sure what's happened here. treadmill won't turn on when red key is inserted. checked electrical plug to make sure it worked. I couldn't see that there's anything wrong with the red key. Have any ideas?

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

taran_2005
  • 10515 Answers

SOURCE: Proform 765 treadmill slows down when step on. Do

Hi,

More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.

BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish) This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections instructions. The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3” without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem. DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
Controller:
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace the control.

The site :-

http://www.treadmilldoctor.com/Treadmill-Belt-Bogs-Down

Any further assistance, let me know.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

maxtreadmill
  • 832 Answers

SOURCE: proform treadmill doesnt work

Press the Stop and the Speed Up keys down while inserting the safety key and try to get this unit in calibration mode if you cannot then, the upper console will have to be replace.

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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Feb 15, 2013 | Proform 585 CS Treadmill

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I have the pro-form 980 cs and the screen displays a bright blue color but no words on the display. It was working fine, but a storm over the weekend knocked out our electrical power. It has not worked...


Dear Friend:
Thank you by your request.

I will try to help you inmediately:

nstructions Things You'll Need
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Allen wrenches (included with the Proform 980 and Proform 980CS)
  1. Power
    • 1 Ensure that the treadmill is plugged into a grounded outlet using the correct surge suppressor. Use a UL 1449 suppressor listed as a transient voltage surge suppressor (TVSS). It must be rated for 15 amps and 120 volts AC. Secure the services of an electrician if the outlet is not grounded, or move the Proform treadmill near a grounded outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
    • 2 Insert the safety key fully into the display. Treadmills with keys are designed not to turn on without the safety key in place.
    • 3 Find the circuit breaker on the front of the frame and make sure it is not tripped. The circuit breaker is a vertical switch on the 98CS and a horizontal switch on the 980 Interactive Trainer. Press it to the "Reset" position, which will be labeled.
    Reed Switch
    • 1 Unplug the treadmill and remove the safety key.
    • 2 Move the upright base of the treadmill down with the help of another person and lift the uprights so that you can get to the underside of the console. Use a Phillips screwdriver with at least a 5-inch shaft to remove the screws. There are five hood screws on the 980 Interactive trainer and four screws on the 980CS.
    • 3 Remove the motor hood to get to the small reed switch by pivoting the hood off the frame. Find the reed switch and magnet, which are on the left side of the pulley for both models.
    • 4 Turn the pulley with your hand until the reed switch aligns with the magnet. There should be 1/8-inch gap between the two. Fix the distance so that it is 1/8 inch by loosening the reed switch screw and sliding it to the correct distance. Tighten the screw.
    • 5 Reverse the directions to put the hood back on and the treadmill upright in the original position.
    Optic Sensor
    • 1 Unplug the treadmill, take out the key and remove the hood cover.
    • 2 Locate the optic disc and optic sensors. The optic disc is the only circular disc set between two optic sensors.
    • 3 Spin the disc with your hand. It must spin without hitting either of the sensors. Loosen the adjustment bolts that hold the switches in place with the included Allen wrench and adjust them to ensure they do not interfere with the discs' ability to spin. Tighten the bolts and replace the hood

    Thank you in advance, sincerely. Blessing.
If you need additional Help, please reach me.

E.CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA. C.A

Sep 28, 2011 | Proform 980 CS Treadmill

1 Answer

Proform treadmill doesnt work


Press the Stop and the Speed Up keys down while inserting the safety key and try to get this unit in calibration mode if you cannot then, the upper console will have to be replace.

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Proform 515s treadmill motor won't start


If the colse buttons make a chirping noise when you push them the console should be Ok. If there is no chirping noise with the push it is a bad console. If everything but the speed works it will probably be your motor controller that is bad.

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