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POWER OFF AND UNPLUGED.!!
REMOVE THE CLIP FROM THE FRONT OF THE DOOR SEAL IF THERE IS ONE. CAREFUL NOT TO DANMAGE THE DOOR SEAL.
Just enough to peel back the door seal just where the lock is. undo the two screws securing the lock and move the lock outside the fron panel. Mane a note of wire positions and fit the new lock. refit everything in reverse order.
I find it easy to remove front casing to fit new door boot seal First remove soap drawer then the 4 screws here next pull off control know of timer next 3 screws on front panel this then now drops down with wiring attached the front of the machine has 3 top and bottom screws remove them along with the door interlock switch 2 screws......detach the band or wire around the door seal the front panel can now be removed.....Seal is in front of you secured by large metal band and screw undo this fit on new seal refit ring and bobs your uncle as they say Good luck....
its quite simple if you removed same....Assuming you have refitted the door boot seal the inner ring is normally fed on then tightened up with a securing screw some rings are a spring which needs to be stretched on to the seal, a good video is available at utube .com FIT DOOR BOOT SEAL
there is no need to remove the side to replace the door seal, just behind the door seal there is a spring clip undo this and fold the seal into the drum were you should see another spring clip undo that as well and the door seal comes out from the front through the hole in the door, to refit a new fold the seal till its inside out and fitted on the inner drum first fit the inner clip then pull it through the door hole and fit the outer spring clip out side the door
The door seal, the hot air inlet and door seal overflow pipe had been disconnected from the drum. Main problem was access to reconnect the door seal overflow which is a very short pipe section going to a small hole in the front of the outer drum and access very difficult.
First remove the top cover of the machine. Two very long screws and two self tappers at the top rear of the cover.
Make sure that the hot air duct is disconnected from the heater outlet and remove the separate plastic duct which bridges between the heater and the hot air duct in the seal.
In this case the door seal had been pulled off the outer drum and the retaining coil spring had also been recovered. If the seal is still in place there is a "handle" moulded into the seal which might assist in starting the removal of the seal.
Remove the outer seal from the front panel of the machine by easing out the wire and spring retainer which can be accessed by the door hinge. Carefully remove the door seal from the front panel and remove it.
Check for damage and if necessary get a replacement.
Push the door seal into the machine loosely and connect the overflow pipe (very difficult access). I leaned the machine on its back to make access a little easier.
Next carefully fit the seal onto the outer drum starting at the bottom by the overflow pipe. Be very careful not to disturb the previously fitted overflow pipe. Make sure the seal is correctly fitted over the retaining flange on the drum.
Next fit the retaining spring by threading it behind the overflow pipe and into the recess on the outside edge of the seal, connect the two ends of the spring together to form a circle and carefully stretch it into place around the door seal. Take care at the top to make sure it goes behind the hot air inlet duct.
Apply a little gasket compound onto and under the lip of the overflow pipe where it enters the outer drum at the bottom (a bit messy and awkward).
Next fit the seal to the front panel of the machine ensuring that the tabs on the seal are aligned with the markings around the front edge of the door aperture.
Fit the wire and spring retainer such that the coil spring sits on the left side of the opening within the moulded recess in the door seal.
Now refit the hot air inlet duct between the heater unit and the door seal ensuring that the parts are it the correct position and the two lugs are stretched over the the small spigots on the heater body.
It took 4 hours to do the job but that included the learning curve. Reckon it should only take an hour if two peaple are available when fitting the inner and outer seal retaining springs.
Ok - I will answer my own problem seeing as though I have now fitted it!
1. remove door (2 screws)
2. There is a tensioned wire loop holding the front part of the boot seal in position. - prize off the plastic cap at the 11 o'clock position, all will become clear and you will be able to remove the wire loop.
3. Remove top of washing machine (2 allen screws behind caps at the front.
4. Remove soap dispenser draw and any screws holding the front control panel and top of the door.
5. Remove bottom front plinth (just pull it off) underneath are a couple of screws holding the front panel part of the machine, remove these.
6. Remove front of machine giving you access to the steel band which locks the other end of the boot seal in position. Slacken this band right back using a nut-spinner screwdriver. Pull off the old boot and clean the lip ready for fitting of the new boot.
7. Fit new boot seal using a squirt of washing up liquid as lubricant if needed (mine didn't) to reseat the seal.
8. Refit and tension steel band.
9. Re-assemble front panel, ease boot back into front lip position then refit wire loop using a suitable pair of pliers/molegrips to crimp the retaining plastic cap back in situ.
Tilt the m/c back and remove the clamp securing the seal to the front of the cabinet, double the seal back inside the washer door opening, and then pull the retaining spring off the inside of the door seal which is fitted in a groove at the back of the seal.
Refit the new seal starting at the topmake sure the seal is fittef the right way up, drainage holes to the bottom.
Work the seal on all the way round the drum, and then roll the spring into the groove at the back of the seal and work it round all the way round the seal, you will find it easier if you have someone to help hold the spring in place..
Refit the seal round the front of the cabinet,and refit clamp at front.
Plz rate this solution.
turn off at mains
remove clamp that holds door seal to cabinet. peel door seal off cabinet.
undo clamp that holds seal to tub. pull seal away from tub.
lubricate slot in seal that goes on tub rim with washing up fluid
starting at top, fit groove in seal onto rim and work your way round in both directions pushing seal on to tub rim - requires patience and you amy not suceed first time round.
refit inner clamp
fit seal rond cabinet -0 this part is easy
refit outer clamp.
test for leaks on rinse as the water level is higher
disconnect from mains
not that easy first time.
undo clip holding seal to cabinet. peel off seal and push inside drum
remove top.i remember seal is held to tub by a giant jubilee clip but varies with model. undo clip and remove seal complete.
fitting is more difficult
lubricate slot that fits flange of tub with washing-up fluid - essential
start at top
fit an inch or so of slot onto tub flange. work in both directions forcing slot onto flange with thumbs as you go round. refit giant jubilee clip. refit seal to cabinet and refit cabinet clamp.
test for leaks on rinse as water level is higher.
this job is a knack so persevere