Question about Craftsman 42 in. Precision Cut Plus 24hp Lawn Tractor

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As I was mowing I began to notice that my tractor losing power and couldn't make it up the slightest hill. Today it seems to have gotten worse and smells as if it is overheating.

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  • 5 Answers

Look to see if a mouse nest is blocking your cooling fins. The smell could be the nest.

Posted on Apr 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 164 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Craftsman lawn tractor model 917.287071

no that solenoid is a anti dieseling valve, when you shut off the key, it closes the main jet to shut off fuel immediatly to the engine. sounds like you have an ign problem. im guessing its a twin, you need to get a spark tester... check each cylinder for a strong rythemic purple spark. if not present, replace the coil, of looks good try a set of new plugs. only other thing is a hole in a piston but in that case it wouldnt build enough compression to light out of the carburator. good luck!

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

SOURCE: TRACTOR BLEW WHITE SMOKE, AND STARTS TO SPUTTER

Start with making sure your oil lever is not over full. If it is it may be getting into the crankcase breather hose that goes to the carburetor hence the white smoke. Sometimes also you can blow a gasket in the breather system and it will do the same. Check for oil leaks in the breather system. Hope this helps. donnyb60

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: gasoline smell

Hello:

The Usuall Cause for this is the Carburetor Needle Float Valve Not Seating Properly.
When this Happens, then Exhaust Valve is Slightly Open and the Gas Flows through the Intake to the Cylinder and then Out the Exhaust Valve to the Muffler.
Soak and Clean the Carburetor and Replace the Float Needle Valve.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then
>>**Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk).
>>The Primer Bulb is Held in Place with a Locking Collar at the Base of the Primer Bulb. Use a Small Flat Screw Driver and Carefully Pry the Lock Ring Up in Small Amounts All Around the Lock Ring until the Lock Ring and Primer Bulb can be Removed from the Carburetor Body. Usually a New Primer Bulb is Required when you have to Soak the Carburetor. The Rubber is Usually Rotted to Much for the Primer to be Reused.
>>Your Primer Bulb May Differ Slightly, but Removal is Usually Almost the Same Except for the Primer Bulbs that are Bolted to the Carburetor. These are Simply Unbolted and Changed with the new Primer Bulb.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also.
>>The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool.
>>Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable).
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 11, 2009

AUTODOC01
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: Greetings, I have a 26 hp 54 in. cut tractor

check under the deck blades first see if something caught in the blades? if not try to spin the pullies on the deck with the blade off make sore that there are no bearing prblems ? you can buy a new key at sears for like $3.00 there all same? if it runs i doubt you shorted anything but it is possible ? have you checked your fuel and are filters etc, repost if it still acts up will send you more help

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

Testimonial: "I will check this weekend and let you know, as I am in Lockport,Il and the tractor is in Veedersburg,Ind.It just might be a seized bearingon the deck."

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: New Craftsman 20hp Briggs & Stratton 42

first make sure the air intake screen on top of engine is not clogged with debris if thats not a concern you could have a faulty ignition coil etc your engine should have a two year warranty and can be serviced at no charge to you at your local briggs service dealer make sure and check your manual for the fine print though. Briggs makes a great engine and very rarely have I ever seen a problem allthough if you were to have an engine issue it will accur during the first few hours of opperation good luck

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

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Hello everyone! IF you have a riding mower or tractor with hydrostatic transmission you are going to love this insider's tip. Slightly overfill the transmission. Always keep the fluid level about 1/4 inch above the full line on the dipstick. Once you have done this you will instantly notice that the tractor has more speed in forward and reverse. You will also notice that it has more power when mowing up hill. Doing this solved several problems I was having with low power and also slow reverse. I had adjusted the linkage but it did not solve my problem, adding the additional transmission fluid did. Enjoy your more responsive tractor! Joe

on Oct 14, 2010 | Garden

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MY 24HP CRAFTSMAN TRACTOR IS LOSING POWER AND OVERHEATING


gas oil and filters ...remove gas replace w fresh regular 87 octane then change spark plug simply walking in any auto store with plug in hend will be best if you dont know which to buy then check oil make sure to wipe dip stick and check oil after that finnaly replace the air filter your not far from burnning you engine you are most likely to be out of oil the fresh gas and oil are the most important but filter and plug will help things run smother check your oil and filters regularly if you use every day once a week oil check once a week or bi-weekly once a month and befor use after storage

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Replace the air filter, fuel filter, and the spark plug. If you are using gasoline that has set for over 3 months then drain the tank and put in fresh fuel. Also add some Seafoam Engine Treatment to the fuel. 1.5 ounces per gallon of fuel. This will clean out the carburetor if you have some varnish buildup. Also add Seafoam to the fuel when storing the mower as it is a great fuel stabilizer.

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