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Wed6400sw0 change thermistor

Not heating

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You have to remove the back panel no heating could be a bad thermal cut-off hi limit or bad heater if you know how to use a multimeter to read continuity the one that reads open will be the problem a thermal cut-off would indicates a restricted exhaust.

Posted on Apr 02, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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F-1 code is a open thermistor on most modern dryers. These new fangled machines use electronics to monitor the heat. Instead of the old tried and true klixon with a bi-metal, they now use a fancy gizmo that changes in resistance with temp change. This resistance is monitored by the computer board. They call this part a Thermistor. The thermistor should read 12k ohms @ room temp or thereabouts.
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How test a thermistor


Hi jorge

Hi
To test your thermistor you will need:
Soldering iron
Multimeter or ohmmeter
Follow the directions below to test your thermistor
1...Set the multimeter to resistance mode lowest setting.
2...Hook up the terminals of the multimeter to leads on the thermistor.
It does not matter which lead goes to the terminals, polarity is not important in this test.
3...Heat the soldering iron then heat the thermistor by moving your heated soldering iron tip to it.
Note: Check the multimeter reading as you are applying this heat.
A properly functioning positive temperature coefficient thermistor will show a smooth and steady increase in the multimeter
resistance reading.
A properly functioning negative temperature coefficient thermistor will show a smooth and steady decrease in the multimeter
resistance reading.
4...Look for other signs that the thermistor is faulty.
A steady reading that does not change, a reading of zero or a reading of infinity are all indications that the thermistor needs to
be replaced.
If the change in the readings is not smooth or if there is not any change, then this could also indicate a faulty thermistor.
Please take time to rate me.
Bud

Oct 31, 2012 | Dryers

3 Answers

F 03 showing on machine


Yes F-03 indicates a faulty thermistor (it's inside the heating element at the back). Before calling an engineer, just open the bottom rear panel and check that the connector has not come loose (OR IN MY CASE FALLEN OFF COMPLETELY). This can happen if there is a spin cycle that runs out of balance big time. (two thin wires on a square unit about 5mm in size fitted to the middle of the heating element).

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10-359


make sure all the connections are in good shape. Look for a broken or slightly burnt connector.
A pinched wire may be the problem.
And the over heat thermistor may have blown.
Its a fuser sensing code. You may have to replace the fuser itself.

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