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Re: Fan not running on outdoor unit
Yes it could be the capacitor open or shorted possiblity.
check the motor to be sure it turns free?(disconnect power first)
check with a voltage meter the wires coming from the fan motor to its power source and see if there is the required voltage there for it to operate?
Feel the motor is it hot? or not hot?
If it is hot then you could have a shorted capacitor causing the motor to overheat
check for a burning smell also.
Take an ohm reading across the motor wires after you turn the power off and disconnect the motor wires.
pick your two power wires from the motor and ohm them do you get a reading? the motor is good
no reading motor is bad or overheated and out on internal overload..
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You can be a parts changer or you can acquire a voltage meter. Sounds like a stuck relay, likely on the board which means new board but if a motor needs 48 volts to run and is only getting 26 it's not going to work. Best Wishes!!
"Low capacity thermal lockout"#81. What this tells me is your 1st stage cooling(low capacity) is locked out for 4 he's due to a dirty outdoor coil, weak outdoor fan motor run capacitor, slow outdoor fan motor, overcharged with freon, restricted or short cycling outdoor airflow(overheating), damaged discharge temp switch, faulty outdoor circuit board. That's all the scenarios I can think of for now. Hope this helps!
I'm not sure if the thermostat is wired correctly. First, the thermostat is wired directly to the outdoor unit (compressor/condenser unit). It is NOT directly connected to the indoor unit. It connects to a low voltage control panel in the outdoor unit that sends a signal to your indoor fan/evaporator. This wire is called the fan relay switch and physically runs between the low voltage controls of the indoor and outdoor units. If the fan relay is bad it's possible that the unit runs continuously. To prevent destroying your outdoor unit there is a safety feature that prevents the indoor fan from shutting down while the outdoor unit is running. If the indoor fan did shut down while the outdoor unit was running than you would slug your compressor. That is, your compressor normally sees refrigerant gas but is instead seeing refrigerant liquid. That would not be good since this scenario would destroy your compressor. It sounds like a faulty fan relay. The actual contactor portion of the relay is in the outdoor unit.
the three post capacitor has c for line voltage in, the f or fan is for the outdoor motor,and com or comp goes to start winding compressor.youll have to follow wires from indoor motor to find capacitor. to find wires to outdoor motor to capacitor you have line voltage and capacitor wires .look for schematic it would help or send colors of wires from both motors and compressor common,start .run.
the outdoor fan should not stop while compressor is running and I would first suspect that the outdoor motor is bad - I would feel the motor with my hand (after it stops/with all electrical power turned off) and see if it was 'hot' to the touch.
If it is - then the motor is 'electrically breaking down' and will need to be replaced.
There is a slight chance that the fan motor capacitor (small silver/grey device) which is hooked to the motor by electrical wires - is bad - but I doubt it. Even so - if the capacitor has a visible bulge then I would first change the capacitor before the motor.
I would never change one circuit board for another unless it was an exact replacement for the one I was changing and included instructions on how to wire.
I seriously doubt that the problem is in the circuit board.
if you are talking about the indoor fan on the unit and it is a electric heater then yes there is a fan relay that control the fan operation that is common to fail on these units.. it is fairly easy to replace and can be purchased on line at diiferent heating sites... type in goodman heating parts in a search engine and locate the relay you need... if you are talking about the outdoor fan motor then need to check a few things there is a capacitor that helps motor start that could be weak /by the way there is also a capacitor on the indoor unit you want to check to .... it usually is 5-20 microfarads that requires a meter or tester that can check the farads on capacitor... make sure these are good... the outside unit will sometimes not have the fan motor run if the unit is in a defrost cycle but should only stay of for 5-15 minutes at a time and only if it is in a defrost cycle ... hope this helps you out repost if you have anymore questions...
if you got high volt to the outdoor machine....make sure the thermostrat is in fact on.open the control box cover to the a/c.a round or oval soda pop lookin can thing should be visually noticeable.is it blown up.thecan top will be bulged.if it is the capacitor is defective.duel capacitors control phase shift for both motors...the outdoor fan and the compressor.a big black relay with the wires comming from the outdoor fuse box should be noticeable.this is the high volt contactor, is the contactor pulled in?beets the **** out of you???grab a screw driver by the insulated handle, not the metal part of the screw driver.manually push it in.did the fan start to go???if so bad contactor or no signal from t'stat to turn machine on.if not no high volt to machine(breaker tripped or failed) or fan motor seized leading to compressor O.L.
these motors are famous for the inyernal fuse blowing in the fan motor. check continuity between the red and blac wires. if there is non the fuse is gone. These motors are fairly easy to take apart and change the fuse . hope this helps