Question about Whirlpool RBS305PD Electric Single Oven
Cost of thermal cut off..oven not heating after self clean
Posted by Anonymous on
The cost for thermal cut off is about 20-30 bucks
Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
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are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.
You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.
On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.
The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )
Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.
The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!
Posted on Jan 03, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This seems to be a common problem with these ovens. The oven got too hot and the tco (Thermo cut off)tripped. This will have to be replaced. It is located behind the control board.
Posted on Aug 25, 2007
SOURCE: Self Cleaning Cycle for Oven
I lost the instruction manual for my Whirlpool 30" Electric Built-In Double Oven and want to clean it. Can I get instructions for how to set the cycle for self-cleaning, etc.?
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
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