In my repair of ho engines,I have found the idler/reduction gear (last gear before axle) in powered trucks to be split. Where can this gear be obtained? It is one gear with 8 teeth on one side and 18 teeth on the larger side.
Split gears, unfortunately, often occur with plastic gears especially the older an engine gets it seems. They get brittle and crack.
I've provided a link to the Bachmann website-they offer a catalogue of parts and may have the replacement gear you require. You can also call them toll-free (the number is on the site) and provide the nice person with the model of your engine.
A little known fact is that Bachmann used to provide a lifetime guarantee on their locomotives. If the part you require is no longer made, they sometimes offer a replacement engine (new) at a substantial discount. You will have to mail in your old one. I used this service one time and received a brand new engine for about 60% off the cost of it new. A good deal!
My only other suggestion is to check in your area for local model train shows. You can search for them online. Most of the vendors are hobbyists themselves that sell model trains and supplies to make a few dollars on the weekend. Their trains are usually used but sell for a fraction of the price new. Sometimes you can purchase a beat up engine for its parts for a couple dollars, and sometimes they have parts that have been taken off used engines themselves. Bring your engine along with you and see what you can find. I find bringing an old engine back from the dead always very rewarding! Hope this helps! Happy modeling! Bachmann Trains Online Home
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There are several causes for this, sadly in your case none of them were addressed at all.
In any case, changing the accelerator pedal wouldn't help with that particular problem unless it was broken in such a way as to prevent it from being pushed down.
A reduction in engine power is part of the engines' computer (PCM) program to prevent damage. The root cause of the power reduction is what needs to be serviced. That is why even after a new computer you still have the problem. On a GM vehicle with the factory programmed PCM, reduction in engine power *if that really is what your vehicle is doing* is sometimes referred to as "abuse mode." If at any time there were any incidents of doing a full throttle start, this mode and thus it's programmed reduction in engine power would be enabled. Another cause of reduction in power does not have to pertain to a PCM program but rather the engines' running condition. Bad spark plugs, plug wiring, fuel system problems, gross exhaust leaks or engine air intake problems will cause loss of power.
I thought it might also be of service to you to remind you to carefully review your warranty, as the engine computer (PCM) is part of the emissions system and thus covered 100% far beyond the powertrain warranty required by EPA law.
STARTING SYSTEM Starter REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Fig. 1: Disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
Fig. 2: After unbolting the starter, remove it from the vehicle
In 1978, a gear reduction starter was introduced on some Canadian and United States models. The differences between the gear reduction and conventional starters are: the gear reduction starter has a set of ratio reduction gears while the conventional starter does not. The extra gears on the gear reduction starter make the starter pinion gear turn at about half the speed of the starter, giving the starter twice the turning power of a conventional starter.
Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
Tag and disconnect the wiring at the starter, taking note of the positions for correct reinstallation.
Remove the bolts attaching the starter to the engine and remove the starter from the vehicle.
Install the starter in the reverse order of removal.
so the front driveshaft turns in 4 low? or you just feeling gear reduction in 4 low?if the front drive shaft will not turn in 4 or 4low then suspect a shift fork broken. when i say turn i mean under engine power.
If the driveshaft is turning then you need to check both axles to see if they turn. If you see that an axle is turning but the wheel is not, you have a broken "u" joint or c/v joint (I think either was available on that year.) If neither axle is turning then likely you have broken some gears inside the differential. To verify that remove the cover on the diff and look. Broken gears are obvious and you do not need to be too experienced to see the damage. Gear damage is expensive to repair and you cannot do that work yourself. You can replace an axle or the entire differential, end to end. Instructions can be found for axle and complete diff replacement in both chiltons or haynes manuals. Or you can try it without instructions ans ask me if you need help with any part of the job.
Could be your reel has a problem or capstan gear is broken. To confirm if gear is broken, apply power to your camera and eject the cassette housing(with or without cassette) and take a look at your idler gear(found at the center of supply and take up reel) if it is rotating. It must rotate momentarily and stop. Good Luck
If you hear the motors turning, remove the seat and check to see if the motors are securely tightened to the transmissions. They are easily tightened, if loose but the transmissions must be removed to gain access to the screws. The hardest part of the job may be the removal of the 'press nut' that holds on the wheel. The wires to the motors will also need to be cut. Please be very careIful not to break off the contacts at the motor. They are soldered on and cannot be pulled off so don't try. That's why the wires need to be cut. If the motors are tight then open one of the transmissions. One of the 3 gears in the reduction gearset may have seen its axle break out of the bosses. This happened to me. The gear was fine. The axle is 7/16th' diameter. Buy a 2 1/2 inch long shoulder bolt where the shoulder is 2 inches long and the last half inch is thread. Drill a 7/16 hold through the cases from inside out using the center of the broken bosses as a guide, reassemble the cases using the bolt as the new axle for the gear. Tighten securely but not overtight. I used modest amount of locktite to prevent loosening. Now all runs like new. $3.16 for bolt, nut, washers. I also found replacement trans on Ebay for $44 plus ship. Your choice.
This sounds like a broken tooth on the main axle. This would account for the lump in every gear and a power loss due to the axle being bent also. I would change the axle, support bearings, and the gear the axle engages. Check the output shaft for bending also.
This could be bad bearings on the shafts but is is highly unlikely if the gearbox oil has been kept at proper levels. In any event, the gearbox will need to be opened up for inspection.
This image is generic and not specificly the TRX850
the front drive axle on one side may have not been installed all the way in to the transmission, check to see if it is loose and have some one look under front end with engine on, front end jacked up, emergency brake on and in gear to see if a axle is turning. if one is and yhe other is not put the car in park and turn\ roll the wheel that was not turning by hand if it rolls your problem is most likley to be the axle has come loose from the transmission