Question about Kenmore Freezers

Open Question

KENMORE SIDE BY SIDE. MODEL 106.56569400. FREEZER SECTION FREEZES AND FRIDGE SECTION GETS WARM. ALREADY REPLACED THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT (BI-METAL SWITCH). DEFROST TIMER NEXT ?

Posted by on

Ad

2 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Refrigerator (bottom freezer)

First of all, check the defrost element, you can do this by test lead, Active to one end and Neutral to the other end of the element leads, the element should get hot if its ok, if not, replace it, to check the timer, locate the clock advance dial, note its position by way of marker pen, allow the unit to run for 3-6 hrs and check position regulary of the dial, it should advance clockwise1/4 of a turn every 3 hrs, if that runs ok then its the thermo fuse.
Anymore help, contact me at wgheaven@yahoo.com.au

Regards Russ....ps dont forget to vote and goodluck.

Posted on May 08, 2011

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Beko CDA543 F freezer always on?


noise sound like compressor mount are loose or rubber garment fell off that stops vibration or pump is bad internally call warranty get replaced if not a mounting problem of compressor

Mar 02, 2017 | Freezers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Refrigerator (bottom freezer) model 596.62822200. I replaced the overload relay last week but now the freezer is frosting up and restricting the air flow to the frig section. I have, I...


First of all, check the defrost element, you can do this by test lead, Active to one end and Neutral to the other end of the element leads, the element should get hot if its ok, if not, replace it, to check the timer, locate the clock advance dial, note its position by way of marker pen, allow the unit to run for 3-6 hrs and check position regulary of the dial, it should advance clockwise1/4 of a turn every 3 hrs, if that runs ok then its the thermo fuse.
Anymore help, contact me at wgheaven@yahoo.com.au

Regards Russ....ps dont forget to vote and goodluck.

May 07, 2011 | Kenmore Freezers

1 Answer

Not freezing


Common problems that would cause problem:
Compressor not running
inadequate power (less than 108v)
freon leaked out (not enough charge)
If available evap. fan not working
if available condenser fan not working
if avaiable defrost heaters bad
if avaialble timer out
if available bi-metal t'sat out
thermostat bad

thats about it. i wrote if available because you did not give a complete model number so i couldn't pull up a part list
hope this was helpful


Apr 02, 2010 | Kenmore 14.1 cu. ft. / 399 liter Upright...

2 Answers

Have a Westinghouse 'Silhouette' Frost Free 415


The reason your "freezing up in the freezer" is your unit is not automatically defrosting. That part you describe is your defrost control, or at least A defrost control. You said while cleaning the back, safe to assume you meant the outside back of the cabinet? Look for a square plug, either black or white, with the same 3-1plug as the defrost control. But, I doubt that is your current defrost control, maybe the original, but the unit cannot run without the defrost control plugged in. Now, your current defrost control maybe defunct, or your defrost heater element, or bi metal thermostat, the latter two are located in the freezer, one at the top, the other at the bottom of the evaporator coil. Test the continuity through both of these parts, the bi metal t stat at top of evaporator needs to be tested while it is cold. Disconnect one end of the heater element to test its continuity. If both of these test ok, replace your defrost control.

Mar 29, 2010 | Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer is cold, but not freezing stuff...


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Oct 11, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer in side by side isn't freezing, but the other part is OK. What to do?


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Oct 04, 2009 | Freezers

2 Answers

My upright freezer won't self defrost. Frost builds up right awa


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Sep 19, 2009 | Kenmore 13.7 cu. ft. / 388 liter Upright...

1 Answer

Kenmoore upright freezer cold but not freezing


Hi!

Thanks for using FixYa. First of all please check that there is air flow in the upper vent baffle in the fridge section which is located behind the crispers. If there is no air flow at the vent baffle in the upper fridge section then this is the cause of the issue you’re facing with. The evaporator fan pushes the air through ducting into the refrigerator from the freezer and if there is any material obstructing it then clear it.

If still the problem persists then you need to check the following things:

The defrost circuit contains defrost timer, defrost heater(s) and defrost thermostat. Defrost timer failure will not put power to the circuit. Defrost heater failure will fail to defrost when the timer applies power. Defrost thermostat must be closed for defrost to take place. First locate the timer, rotate the clutch head screw clockwise slowly until one distinct click is heard. Now the timer will be set in defrost mode and defrost should complete within 30 minutes or less after which the refrigeration should start cooling again. If defrost takes place and it does not go back to cooling automatically turn the screw once again until you hear the second click, unit will start. Replace the timer. If defrost does not take place in the time frame above and the unit restarts in cooling test the defrost heaters. From the heater(s) follow the wires from each end to where they plug into the circuit. Unplug them and test through the heaters with an ohm meter. You should get a reading if they are good, if no reading then you need to replace the heater(s). If you get a reading on the heater(s) then you need to replace the defrost thermostat.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Aug 14, 2009 | Kenmore Freezers

1 Answer

Kenmore 15.2 upright freezer coils freezing up


Check the bi-metal switch. when cold, it should have continuity also.
If both heater and bi-metal are good, change the defrost timer

I hope this helps.
Please leet me know if I can assist you further
Vic

May 31, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Whirlpool Freezer


Most likely you have a defrost problem. IF, you think the timer is ok then the most likely problem is the bi-metal. That is a little part usually on the top right side of the evap coil and has two wires on it. If you can find the defrost timer and advance it slowly till the refrigerator stops running, then being in the defrost postion you can see if the heater is coming on. If so you have a bad timer. If NOT, then either the heater or the bi-metal is bad. Usually it is the bi-metal

Aug 27, 2008 | Freezers

Not finding what you are looking for?
Freezers Logo

Related Topics:

108 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Kenmore Freezers Experts

Charles T Nevin
Charles T Nevin

Level 3 Expert

4070 Answers

christian nielsen

Level 3 Expert

358 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Are you a Kenmore Freezer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...