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My brand new kettle does not work

Kettle power comes on - starts to heat up, then switches itself off after a couple of seconds

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

yalmer
  • 549 Answers

SOURCE: siemens porsche kettle om switch problem

Some switches are called momentary and others are the click on and click off type.
It could be a problem with the switch if is is the click on type.
It could be a relay that "seals in" when you press the on off switch to on.
By "seal in" I mean, the kettle is wired so that when the relay coil energizes, it closes a contact when it is electrified and becomes an electric magnet and the energy that was going through the on off button, is now going through the closed contact on the relay.
If you don't here a clicking sound like you used to, it could be a fuse inside inside of the electrical box on or by the kettle.
I don't know by the information, if this is a household small appliance or commercial?
Even if household, it should have the same basic setup.

This may be of some help to you

What About The Kettle?

Despite being metal the kettle is cool touch (a tough special grade plastic interior). A good safety feature is that the kettle will only switch on when the lid is closed, there is a special lid release button. The kettle also has automatic overheat protection. Of course the kettle is cordless and has cord storage in its base. Water quality? Well, it's better if you use filtered water, but with this kettle it is even better - it has a removable stainless steel limescale filter in the spout!

Posted on Feb 09, 2008

  • 287 Answers

SOURCE: Switches off before full boil

Look under the kettle at the round circular connector in the bottom. Inside there is a small button that is depressed when the kettle is put on the base. If this is not pushed in far enough it will have problems.

The cause is that after some use the connector in the base plate collapses into the base by 1-2 mm This means the switch is not pushed in far enough.

My kettle had similar issues... I pulled the base plate apart (3 screws I think) and cut a round disk of plastic to lift the connector up by about 1-2mm and then reassembled the base.. No more issues

Posted on Jul 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: How do I clean the contact points between kettle and platform?

PROBLEM:

My problem was similar for the Cuisinart KUA-17.  I clicked down the on switch and it stayed down.  However, the light and power together seemed finicky.  That is, the light came on if I positioned the kettle in the base correctly, but then it sometimes went off without triggering the switch to pop up.  When the light went off while the switch remained down the water never boiled, but when I was lucky to position it such that the light remained on, the water did boil and the switch popped up ... as it should have.  It seemed to be getting more and more finicky and difficult to position correctly ... so I took it apart.
SOLUTION:
First of all, the base has screws that take a triangle screwdriver which I don't have.  So I found a small flat-headed screwdriver (like one you'd use for glasses) that just fit along one side of the triangle.  I was able to get three base screws out this way and since I expected to need to do this again in the future, I used my dremel to grind a larger flat-headed screwdriver slot in each.  It's been about a year and a half since I fixed it last time and this time I was glad I had the slots.
Once you get the plastic base off, you'll see the mechanics of the switch.  There are two wires that both turn on the light and power the heater element.  Where the wires connect to the switch mechanism, there are two metal tabs that stick out in opposite directions from the center.  When the switch is pushed down, you can see these two tabs move.  They are each moving to touch a contact and complete the electrical circuit.  My problem was they were not making a good contact.  The contacts are hidden behind the tabs.  All I had to do was bend the contacts one millimeter closer (i.e. as little as possible) so that they would make a good contact.  The only other trick was I had to remove the switch mechanism from the bottom of the kettle to do this.  Then I just used the same small flat-headed screwdriver to bend the contact as in the picture below.
8fd9668.jpg

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: Kettle will not stay on

Sounds like the switch is weight sensitive. A safety feature to prevent overheat as contents run low? The baseplate is probably not moving freely enough to move accordingly.

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: the power switch light on my kettle comes on but

1. Check the continuity on the power switch
2. Check to see if any thermal cut-out is open circuit
3. Check to see if the element has gone open circuit.

Any open circuit indicates the part will require replacing. Given the cost of the kettle, if the element has gone open circuit it may be worth considering replacing the kettle itself.

Posted on Mar 25, 2010

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1 Answer

Kettle won't work after switching on with no water inside


It depends on how long you switched on.
*check to make sure that the switch is transmitting electricity if not...
*from my experience with kettles you will need a new element*Depending on the kind of kettle you are using check the power cable and the base of the kettle to make that there is contact between the kettle and the power cable.

Apr 03, 2013 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

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How to fix a kettle when the power switch switches off before boiling point?


There can be several causes. In many cases the power switch is thermo or current tripped, It is like a thermo circuit breaker.

The power switch itself may have to be changed.
The element is pulling too much current.
The thermostat may be defective.

Contact the manufacture to find out where you can buy spare parts to try. You will require the proper connectors, and crimp tools to work inside of these. Also, you will require a sound knowledge of how these appliances work, and the safe way of servicing them.

Because of the way you asked the question, I would think you are not familiar with how to service these devices. I would suggest to give the kettle to a service rep, or to purchase a new one. There are safety issues when servicing appliances.

Jerry G.

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I have a new Bellini electric kettle. When I turn the kettle on, it starts to boil for a few seconds and then turns itself off. It will boil if I hold the "button" down for a while until it...


Unfortunately the problem is in the switch mechanism, and will need to be replaced to correct the problem. My sense is it would be cheaper to replace the kettle than trying to find somebody to repair it.

Mar 13, 2011 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

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When the kettle is switched on, the light comes on...


sounds like the element has died. If it's still under warranty, take it back. If it's not under warranty, contact an electrician or appliance repair person. Unless it's an expensive kettle though, it's probably not worthwhile fixing, as elements can sometimes be as expensive as a new kettle

May 20, 2010 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

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The power switch light on my kettle comes on but it wont boil


1. Check the continuity on the power switch
2. Check to see if any thermal cut-out is open circuit
3. Check to see if the element has gone open circuit.

Any open circuit indicates the part will require replacing. Given the cost of the kettle, if the element has gone open circuit it may be worth considering replacing the kettle itself.

Mar 25, 2010 | Russell Hobbs RHOK3123 Cordless Electric...

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I have a relatively new kenwood kettle and yesterday it just stopped working. There is power to the kettle as the red light comes on just nothing else. Can you help?


suspect kettle heating element is defective. if the light did not come on then it could also be the thermal switch which may be sticking. if the product is relatively new you should still have warrenty, recommend contacting your vendor about this problem. Kenwood have a very good customer service network.

Nov 16, 2009 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Switches off before full boil


Look under the kettle at the round circular connector in the bottom. Inside there is a small button that is depressed when the kettle is put on the base. If this is not pushed in far enough it will have problems.

The cause is that after some use the connector in the base plate collapses into the base by 1-2 mm This means the switch is not pushed in far enough.

My kettle had similar issues... I pulled the base plate apart (3 screws I think) and cut a round disk of plastic to lift the connector up by about 1-2mm and then reassembled the base.. No more issues

Nov 23, 2007 | Russell Hobbs RHOK3123 Cordless Electric...

2 Answers

Red light's on... but no hot water!


OK, inside the unit there are three items, the heating element, thermostat, and thermal fuse.What has happened is the element got too hot and the thermal fuse opened.There is no reset button.In some cases you may run across a defective heating element or thermostat but its not common.The fix would probably be replacement of the thermostat and thermal fuse.For this, you would have to contact a small appliance repair center in your area.

Nov 06, 2007 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

3 Answers

Kettle shuts off before boiling?


I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.

Aug 29, 2007 | Braun WK600 Cordless Electric Kettle

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