Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Dryer won't heat

Inginiter will glow when 120v applied to the ing, 26volts at dryer terminal, think it is the limit switch, where are they located.

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Limit switch is locate inside the unit near the element housing.(High Limit thermostat)

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

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1 Answer

No heat from my dryer


the first thing to check is the house wiring.if you do not have a volt -ohm meter get one and learn how to use it! if not get someone who can.you could have a bad fuse,breaker thermal fuse on the dryer ,thermostat, timer ,or motor switch, or a bad wirer always check voltage first.check where cord is connected at dryer.3 terminals check from middle to left 120v. middle to right 120v. left to right 240v.if you don't get them dryer is o. k.

Mar 15, 2014 | Inglis 65 Cu Ft 5 Cycle Electric Dryer...

1 Answer

I have a duet model 9200lw1 it has no heat I have replace the heater element still no heat when the dryer is on both sides of the element read 120v and it reads 120v at the high-limit thermostat and It...


you need to actually check the resitance on the high heat thermostat and cut off... make sure if your meter has a ohms and a beeper on it it should beep when you test across it with the unit unplugged and the wires off the terminals of the limit.... when the heater is heating if you test across the two terminals of the heater if working properly you should get 0 reading.
make sure you have 220-245 volts coming into back of unit even if you think it is check it the unit will still have a light and tumble with half power. you need to test across terminals at same time and should get the above voltage..... good luck to you hope you get it fixed..... good luck

Jan 08, 2011 | Whirlpool GEW9200L Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer model number 86860100 dryer not heating.....cleaned out vents not the problem....everything else seems to work.. I had seen in the past it glow in back of the dryer so I turned out...


hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

There is no heat being produced


HI, Remove the front lower panel. Start the dryer and see if the ignitor glows. If it glows but the gas valve does not open, Change the coils on top of the gas valve.
If the ignitor does not glow, test the ignitor for 120V. If there is voltage to the ignitor but no glow, change the ignitor.
If there is no viltage to the ignitor, check continuity on the thermostats and the fuse that are located on the blower housing. Also test the sensor located on the burner.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further.

Vic

May 24, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer no heat


check the thermal fuse to see if it's open which means blown(no continuity through it). check to see if heat element is broken somewhere. And if thermal fuse is blown then you'll also have to replace the thermostat switch and the high limit thermostat switch(located close to heat element).

Apr 05, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Mar 30, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore series 70 gas dryer no heat, where is the glow plug located and how do I get to it?


its a heating element and its in the back of the dryer...it could also be the limit switches that are bad they are at each end of the heating element. you have to take it out of the dryer and replace it

Jan 29, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Hot point dryer


Three problems
  1. :Heater thermal fuse is blown, not a repairable/resettable item, replace the thermal fuse.
  2. the controller that turns on the heater, is fubar
    it is a relay with 120v solenoid coil and 120v terminals for the motor and 240v terminals for the heater. the 240v side has fused closed so does not turn off. not a repairable item replace the relay
  3. The scraping noise could be from drum bearings/rollers Check the roller bearings under the rear of the drum, to make sure they still turn freely and have not dropped, check the felt ring at the front of the drum to see if it is worn out

  1. as soon as you started the motor a rush of very overtemperature air travelled down the exhaust duct and melted the thermal cutout screwed on the side of the duct, inside the dryer. These items are between $7-$13, and every washer/dryer parts store has them, there are only 4 or five different ones in all the makes of dryer.
  2. Locate the run relay, and remove it, test with a ohmmeter or battery and bulb, across the load terminals, ALL load terminals should have, no light on the lamp, infinity ohms on the meter,
    solenoid coil terminals should have about 100ohm on the meter, faint glow on the lamp
    relays are $18 -$90 (rippoff but some have to use OEM parts)
  3. roller kits are $9+, felts between $12-$30

Aug 02, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer won't heat


Jess, the model number comes up as a Crosley electric dryer. Start first at the terminal block where the cord attaches. Should read 120V from each end to center and 240V across the two outer. If this is ok, check the thermal cut out, this will be the top limit switch on the heater housing. Should read closed. Ohm out the element itself with the wires off, should show continuity. You should have 240V across the terminals on timed dry. If that checks good, go to the motor harness. One leg of power to the element goes through that switch. Check that all the wires are intact in the harness and reseat it. Check these things first...Catriver...post back.

Jan 25, 2007 | LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

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