Question about Samsung DV210AEW Sensor Dry Electric Dryer - White

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My dv210ae dryer runs but won' heat

Drying display flashes and cool down is constant

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It's likely your heating element has overheated and the ni-chrome heater wire has been severed. There are other potential root causes, but this is most likely the root cause. There are two temperature sensors in the heating element sub-assembly, one or both or which may have failed.

The most likely cause of heating element overheating is a clogged vent. To avoid future overheating, check the vent regularly and remove any lint build-up.

The heating element, the heating element sub-assembly, and the entire galvanized metal heating sub-assembly (which includes the two temperature sensors) are available for purchase. Here are examples of all three:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC47-00019A-DC97-14486A-Restring-Samsung-Maytag-Dryer-Heater-Heating-Element-/271500121399?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f36ab1537

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC47-00019A-Dryer-Heating-Heater-for-Samsung-PS2038533-AP4201899-Maytag-35001247-/161300972816?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258e498510

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-DC97-14486A-Dryer-Heater-Duct-Assembly-/231215083866?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35d57e315a

Before purchasing any component, verify model and part numbers match your dryer.

Before starting your repair, make sure the dryer is disconnected from its electrical source either by unplugging it or turning off its breaker. The dryer is heavy, so be careful lifting. Parts inside the dryer may be sharp to the touch, so be careful reaching inside. Use of gloves is recommended.

The heating sub-assembly is accessible from the front, behind the door sub-assembly, but may need to be removed from the rear. Follow this YouTube example-- it should be similar to your dryer even though it may not be exactly your model. Be sure to notice wires and cable connections, and be sure to reassemble just as you disconnected. It's wise to take photos as you go so that you can recall how parts and wires go back together.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbprl46J-yE

If the heating element is severed, obviously it will need to be replaced. If the mounting insulators are in good shape, you might choose to just replace the wire. As in this video, some skill is needed to disassemble the heating wire from the mounting plate. If one or more insulators have been damaged, the entire heating wire sub-assembly should be replaced. Or, as listed above, the entire sub-assembly can be purchased, which includes the two temperature sensors. This will simplify the project (but cost a bit more). The temperature sensors should be in normally-on condition, going to open state at temperature set limit. You can check the sensors with an ohm meter. If either is open at room temperature, that sensor has failed and also needs to be replaced.

Make the repairs warranted by your investigation, re-assemble the heating sub-assembly being careful to match photos you've taken, re-install in the dryer, re-assemble the dryer vent, door and top, re-connect the dryer to its electrical source, then test the dryer. The temperature should quickly rise within the dryer drum.






Posted on May 27, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a Samsung DV210AE

The first thing to check is if you have 240 Volts going into the dryer. The display, lights, and motor run on 120 Volt but you need 240 V for the element.

Posted on May 20, 2011

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: DV220AGW Dryer takes a long

Hi jameswill300...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Posted on Sep 14, 2011

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