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Basically you cannot break you woofer with too powerful amp, but you can break it using too weak amp. This is because if you don't have enough watts going to you woofer the cones movement isn't controlled properly. I'm usually using +20% to the woofers RMS and peak power. This will also make the amp last longer because you won't use it at it's peak performance all the time. If possible use manufacturer whose prising policy matches your woofers manufacturers, that way you won't end up with "2000w peak power" cheap amp with real output of 30w. and in the other end cheap woofer won't handle expensive amp with real 600w rms so well, you need to find a midlle way here. Hard to say without knowing the make and model of the woofer.
This is a taste question for some people, and I haven't build a system to match so powerful woofer ever in my life. But I'm pretty sure you won't go wrong with this one.
depends on what the RMS is for the subs because although the subs are 1200 watts, there is a minumim standard you have to follow. If you don't atleast run the lowest wattage thru them, then you will most definately damage the speakers....you should also be aware of the fact that your "600w Pioneer-4 channel amp doesn't even push a true 600 watts... Your best bet is to upgrade ur amp, or add an additional amp to your set-up. And you really need to pay close att to over or under running your power to your stereo system because you'll burn out ur altenator rather quickly. Use proper wattage , and you should also look into getting a power-cell which lessens the chances of destroying your altenator and helps to ensure that your stereo system sounds to its full potential.....
In addition to the impedance rating of a speaker, there is also a wattage rating. Ideally, power output of the amplifier should not exceed the power handling rating of the speakers. The input impedance of the speakers should match the amplifier output impedance for maximum power transfer (Rin = Rout where R is resistance in Ohms). Supplying more power or wattage to the speaker than it can handle will result in distortion, and if the output of the amp is high enough and present long enough, it will damage the voice coil of the speaker. Make sure that when comparing wattage ratings, you are comparing the same rating between amps & speakers. Watts can be expressed three different ways: "Peak", "Peak to Peak" and the industry standard "RMS". The relationship is such: an industry standard value of "70 Watts RMS" (70W RMS) equals "100 Watts Peak" (100W P) *and* also is the same as "200 Watts Peak to Peak" (200W P-P). Furthermore, there is no such thing as 200W "Music Power" (but is often expressed this way to inflate the RMS wattage rating (and usually is close to the P-P rating). A speaker is an electrical device, so most the things that happen to electrical devices when over powered can happen to speakers and amplifiers, too.
Increasing the signal source level (input signal to the amp via volume control) in an attempt to get more audio power to the speaker can overdrive the amplifier - resulting in "clipping". This is plainly heard as "muddied" sound. The otherwise loud, crisp, clean passages in music end up sounding garbled and unpleasant when an amplifier is over driven in this way. This can damage both the amp and the speaker.
Cheap amps with higher THD (total harmonic distortion) ratings sound worse than their counterparts with a lower THD rating - when all other variables are the same. You'll pay extra for lower THD values.
You might be able to make a speaker seem louder by positioning the speakers against a wall, on the floor, etc. Experiment; as it can make a significant difference in sound levels and low frequency bass sounds.
Typically large speakers like that blow up because you are trying to put frequencies into them that they can not reproduce. How are these units connected? Is the crossover frequency correct for these 15" speakers? Putting signals higher than about 1000Hz will start to heat them up. too much heat = blow-up.
Also, I'm not familiar with the tr-150s. Is the 600W rating a PEAK rating or continuous?
RMs is the average power (really basically) > You need to get an amp that is around 150W - 180 WRMS. You need to be really specific about the rms. Dont let guys tell you 1000 W peak etc. Peak is term that can often have several meanings, but true RMS is the norm standard for assesing proper power in pro gear. Whatever you find check out the specs for yourself in writing!!! Hope it helps
Amps can be rated based on their RMS power or their peak power. In this case, the amp's rated RMS power is 300x2 at 2 ohms (total 600W RMS) with a peak power rating of 600x2 (1200W peak). For the most part, peak power means almost nothing.
If your head unit didn't have RCA preamp outputs, you would used the standard speaker outputs from the head unit and connect them to the hi input plug of the amp.
hi there. yes it should work providing you have the correct wiring it for it, if you buy the LV 416 enquire about a wiring kit to fit, most will. theyre normally around 20pounds. most amps will be compatible with most subs. i run both my 12inch 1000w off one 1200amp at half power, they kick lovely and i have no problems.
Remember that driving a load with an underpowered amp will probably cause more problems than having a more powerful amp that is not running flat out. 200-300W amp would be ok, but I would suggest going for the biggest you can afford. If you crank up the volume on the smaller amp you will probably get a fair amount of distortion, which may actually damage the speakers. A larger amp will not give as much distortion for the same loudness/volume and give better control of the speakers for a tighter bass..