Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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NO LIGHTS AND NOT WORKING - Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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WASHER WILL NOT START: SEE PICS AT BOTTOM...

Power If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.

Lid Switch The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.

Door Interlock The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.

Timer Knob Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.

Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in


Overheating If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!


All washing machines use a motor that is responsible for spinning and agitating during the cleaning cycle. Many top load brands use a reversing motor which means the motor spins in one direction for agitating and another for spinning and draining. If the motor does not start, but makes a humming or buzzing noise then it may be defective. To verify if the motor is at fault, remove the drive and /or pump belts and then try to start the motor again. On direct drive models, you will have to disengage the pump and the direct drive coupling to the transmission. If the motor starts, then the problem is with the transmission or the pump and can be further diagnosed by reconnecting each one individually. If the motor does not start or continues to hum or buzz, then it will need to be replaced

Lastly CONTROL BOARD

If the control board does not provide the proper voltage to the drive motor, fill valve, drain motor or door lock then the washer may not start. The main control board on most washers is complicated and difficult to diagnose without proper test equipment and procedures. You can visually inspect the control for signs of electrical arcing or burned or damaged components on the board. You should use caution when replacing a control board as sometimes the burned components are caused by external component failures.

The following test must be made on one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors:

1.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

2.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

3.The ohmmeter should showZEROresistance (continuity). If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

Start Winding

4.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the black wire from the motor.

5.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the yellow wire from the motor.

6.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 4-10 ohms.

7.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

High Winding

8.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

9.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

10.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 0-4 ohms.

11.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

12.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

13.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

14.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

15.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on two-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-15:

Low Winding

16.
touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

17.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

18.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

19.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

20.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

21.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

22.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

23.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

24.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

25.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

26.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

27.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on three-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-27:

Ex-Low Winding

28.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

29. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

30.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

31.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

32.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

33.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

34.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

35.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

36.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

37.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

38.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

39.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

40.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

41.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

42.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

43.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

44.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

45.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

46.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

47.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

48.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

49.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

50.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

51.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

52.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

53.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

54.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 2-8 ohms.

55.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following three (3) checks must be made on all one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors to check for an internal failure (short):

56.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the drive motor housing.

57.
One at a time touch the other ohmmeter probe to each of the wires (terminals)coming from the drive motor.

58.
The ohmmeter should show an open circuit when each of the wires (terminals)are checked. If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.








NO LIGHTS AND NOT WORKING - 23950574-izj50bzy441rirqhwblyybfs-2-0.jpg



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Posted on May 12, 2015

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