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Can you derate the capacity of a furnace

I need to derate the furnace to70000btu

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If it has burners you can take out thats one way, but you will have to remove the orifice and plug the holes. If its a newer furnace Maybe try a smaller gas valve. I don't recommend either for saftey's sake.

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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Mitsubishi Fuso 2004 Truck is derating but running well until it derates can derate up to 10 times in an hour but then can run for hours without doing it Any Ideas?


the derating is the vehicle going into limp mode from a reported fault from the engine or transmission
in and out indicates a bad connect in a wire somewhere or loose connection on the ECM unit
possible also that there is venting problem in the tank so check that out as well

Aug 31, 2016 | Mitsubishi Cars & Trucks

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I need to replace my ac but my furnace works fine. Do they need replaced at the...


Think of your air conditioner and furnace as part of a total system. That system will work better, longer and more efficiently if all of its components are matched in capacity and efficiency. By the same token, a mismatched system-one that mixes old technology with new-could decrease system performance and overall comfort.<br />For example, your new air conditioner will be capable of reaching a certain SEER efficiency rating. Because SEER is determined by a complete system combination, if your existing furnace and indoor coil are older or don't match in efficiency and capacity, you might not get the efficiency level you paid for or be able to receive accurate information on what your rating actually is. Plus, an older indoor coil may even be dirty and clogged with particles, meaning more energy will be required to push air through the system.

on Mar 27, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I install 2 new honeywell non programmable thermostats. The temp never reaches the setting temp. Always 5 to 8 degrees off. I can not get the furnace to heat the home over 70 degrees. Even set at 80. Any...


If the furnace is cycling on and off and not reaching temp there is a problem in the control circuit. If the thermostat is not satisfied the furnace should be running without shutting off in which case the capacity of the furnace is inadequate because of size or problems reducing the capacity. This could be caused by an increase in home size, poor air flow (dirty filter, loose fan belts, fan running slow, obstructions in the duct), dirty heat exchanger or burner, reduced gas flow, over temperature switch bad causing the burner to shut off early, or a few more technical reasons. You may do well to call a technician to troubleshoot this problem.

Feb 09, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Engine derate


can you reword question dont no what derate is

Aug 28, 2014 | Garden

1 Answer

What size oil furnace is needed for 1200 square feet?


75000 to 85000 btu Or British thermal pound.
Two units of measure are important in sizing an oil furnace. The first is the British Thermal Unit or BTU, which represents the energy needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit at normal atmospheric pressure. The input capacity of an oil furnace is often stated using this unit of measure. The second number is the fuel efficiency rating, which is expressed as a percentage. This represents the amount of energy that gets converted to heat, with higher numbers being better. To determine the energy output in BTUs per hour, multiply the input BTU by the efficiency rating. For example, a furnace with 100,000 BTU of input and an efficiency rating of 89 produces 89,000 BTUs of output. One with an efficiency rating of 80 and the same input amount, produces only 80,000 BTUs of output.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_12197488_size-oil-furnace-required-1200-square-foot-house.html#ixzz2jfsuqLFx

Oct 25, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Lutron dimmer switch # D1500 1500 120vac Voltage to switch is OK but lights(8 100watts) do not go on.


I can't locate the Lutron D1500 dimmer switch on Lutron web site. Perhaps there is a different number for it.

Anyway, you are attempting to dim a total of 800 watts of light. A standard dimmer switch will not handle this much of a load as they are rated for 600 watts. A 1000 dimmer is the next size up and would be the minimum rating to be used. This means the dimmer would be operating at 80% of capacity and the switch may become warm - but all within acceptable limits.

A dimmer switch rated at 1200 watts or even 1500 watts may be a better choice, as the 800 watt load would present a load that would only be 66% and 53% (respectively) of rated capacity, and would likely run cooler and last a lot longer.

The down side to these higher wattage rated switches is their cost. It is not unusual for the price to double for a 600w vs a 1000w dimmer.

Sometimes, a 1000w dimmer is not sufficient to control a 600w load. This happens when 2 or more dimmer switches are installed in a single location under one wall plate. It is a fairly common arrangement for electricians to install 2, 3 or more "ganged boxes" so that there aren't 2, 3 or more individual switches clustered around a doorway. Even though a two ganged box has twice the area of a one gang box, the issue is about heat dissipation. A box will contain the heat. So the heat is given up from the front of the switch. The metal fins provide more area for cooling. When two or more dimmers are located in a multiple-ganged box, there is too much heat for the space. Two 600 watt dimmers would need to be derated to about 450 watts each (instructions for derating are included with the switch - each manufacturer has their own formulas), and if three 600 watt dimmers were in a single location, they might need to be derated to 300 watts each. So, simply moving to a 1000 watt or 1200 watt dimmer may not get you to the 600 watt level if there are several dimmers that require derating to 50%. Installing dimmers in boxes with standard "toggle" type (non-dimming) switches require no derating as toggle switches do not produce appreciable heat.

Make sure that the lighting load is a type designed for dimming. The popular CFL (compact fluorescent lamps) are not designed for dimming, unless the package specifically states otherwise. Lights that have a filiment but no transformer, ballast, starter, etc. are the only ones suitable for use with a dimmer (again - unless the package / fixture states otherwise). The dimmable types are typically "standard" incandescent, quartz, halogen and tungsten types.

Furthermore, a dimmer switch is not suitable for use as a fan speed control either. There are special switches to provide speed control of fan motors. Use of a dimmer on a motor load is a fire hazard.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Jan 08, 2013 | Lutron Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Cracked heat exchanger


Co2 would enter the room and not go up the flue , flame would burn floppy , or go out , derate I take it too much gas would not give correct flame picture too much gas to burn lack of air etc.

Oct 27, 2012 | Dayton Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

We want to install a dimmer switch for I halogen light. It is a Childs light with a row of 4 cars each with a 60w halogen bulb in. The dimmer we have brought says it is a 60-400w but must be derated to a...


The numbers don't immediately make sense to me (60-400 to 60-125?... doesn't sound right). Also, does it mention the circumstances under which you should be derating? Can you check those two pieces of information - it may help.

Most basic dimmers are rated for 600-Watts. Usually then need to be derated when installed alongside other dimmers (which as a rule of thumb, means only load up to 500-Watts if there are two dimmers, and only 400-Watts if there are three or more). Many installers also use a general rule of derating every piece of electric equipment by 20% - which is generally not required by the manufacturers of dimmers.

Regardless, there's a mismatch between the information you've given and the industry standard. Can you provide the excerpt from the instructions?

Sep 19, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Our Armstron (magic Chief) oil furnace keeps shutting on and off during the heating cycle.


I will try to help, but a little more info would be great, when you say it shuts off, it is important to determine if it is the burner or the blower that is shutting off.
If the burner is shutting off and coming back on, the safety "fan and limit" control is getting to hot,,
If what I have listed above, there are several things that can cause it;
1. The first step is to make sure that the air filters are clean, the return air grills are clear, no objects covering them.
2. This part needs to be approached with care, Turning off power to the furnace is a must; then clean the blower area, and if it is a belt driven blower setup, inspect the belt, looking for cracks on the surface that makes contact with the pulleys. If the belt is old, it may be stretched and slipping on the pulleys, reducing the air that is being blown across the furnaces firebox, this will cause the furnaces safety "fan and limit" control to over heat and shut off till it cools off, then it will turn back on.

If the blower is the one that is shutting on and off, you would notice this at the supply registers in each room, air blows, then stops. This usually caused by really cold air blowing across the firebox, like after the house has been cold - over night, and usually will start operating more along the normal side of things as the home warms up.
Either the blower is moving to much air, blowing strongly in each room, or the furnace has been reducein it's firing rate - derated - a smaller nozzle being installed would be the main cause.... this is the first thing to check,,, if that doesn't do it, it would be highly recommended to have a experienced repair person look at it.
Remember when working in the blower area, please turn off the power to the furnace to save the fingers.
I hope this will give you a game plan.
Have a great evening.
Sincerely,
Paul Gibson

Mar 30, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I need to find out what this furnaces tonnage is. Model #UGAB075BUH


Here is what I have

Evcon furnace
Gas
Single stage
80% efficiant
Upflow/horizontal
75,000 btu/h or 6.25 Ton heating capacity
3 Ton blower package

Jun 26, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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