Question about Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side Refrigerator
Fridge and freezer recently started to lose thier cool. Unit was close to the wall and I moved out hoping to find that it was a heat exchange problem. House is not ACed and has gotten much warmer in the last few days. Fridge and freezer seem to have cooled slightly since the move from the wall but certainly not enough to protect. Freezer is keeping stuff marginally frozen. Would guess fridge to be in the 50's or so with switches set to full cold. Fan and air exchange in back seem to be working. Compressor is hot. No obstructions of built up fuzz/dust/lint to be found.
Is there any great likelihood that the system needs charging (134a) and it that user serviceable?
Will go to the coils next to check for icing and will look for any airflow restrictions but would be so grateful for any help in solving this problem. Appreciate it so much. Thanks.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Defrost the fridge, take everything out of freezer and turn off for at least a day, check the drain is clear after defrosted and try again, if it happens again you may need a new defrost heater of timer.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
MZD 2766GESide by Wide Unit problems
Be sure if you get into the refrigerator disconnect the power!
I posted this earlier below for another problem. you need to make sure anytime you fix a problem like this in any refrig you defrost all ice. I found just stting there the ice will remain for 10 hours in the box. Why I don't know but I saw it happen.
The control could still be the problem if you did not replace the whole bboard. There is a way to check the heater with a meter but I don't remember the value. It has to have Ohms if not it is broken.
I had the same problem and I knew it was the refrigerator. You have to order the control board that controls the fan assy in the freezer. It has an inherent problem with others I see. But don't attempt to change it yourself. There is tricks to it and if you don't do it right you will break more things. I saw the tech broke some tabs and it is stupid way to design something unless you plan to get more business this method.
The control board sits in front of the water filter in the refrigerator. Inside the Temperature control housing cover.
Additionally, you have to take all the frozen food out and defrost manually the fan area and the subsequent ducts to clear it all out. Otherwise, you will have the same problem again. If it breaks and it will. It causes the ice to build up to point you will not get fan movement or airflow. This flow keeps the Icebox from freezing up and causes the air to flow to the refrigerator side.
They make these things so it is harder for DIY to do it.
But they are really simple! At least most of it.
Contrary to popular belief Ice is a good insulator. Once it builds up, no heat transfer takes place because of the inefficiencies it blocks the airflow and etc.
It is my opinion and I stand by it.
I bought many Maytag items and it suppose to have a great reputation. I have now started to look at other providers.
I find these companies are getting cheaper and instead the quality is going down.
So buyer beware not all have across the board quality it depends on the series, the price and the manufacturer.
Oh well another lesson learned.
Here is another problem when using a ice maker unit do not always use the ice crusher. I found that out. The motor that drives the ice crusher is matted with metal to plastic then metal again in the Ice Holder unit.
Guess what, it jams sometimes and it puts great pressure on the ice maker holder unit.
Where the metal meets the plastic is the weakness. It breaks because of in my opinion weak design
The two plastic nibs meeting with the metal motor drive square "U" connector breaks the plastic and eventually you have to get the plastic replaced. I think if I have to order that little part will end up buying the whole Ice holder assembly.
One direction for crushed ice the other direction it turns for solid ice cubes.
I guess I will use the solid Ice cube method until I figure what to do.
Any parts for it replacing the plastic hookup out there?
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
Sounds like the Freezer Fan is wearing out or is worn out. This fan problem is very hard to detect. The reason is that when the motor is starting to wear out the fan will spin, but at a much lower rpm. This is enough to keep the freezer cold. but will not ciculate enough air thru the freezer and the refrigerator to prevent freezer from and refrigerator from cooler. The cost to repair/replace this fan is a minimum of $300.00
Posted on Jul 28, 2009
Testimonial: "Your solution was right on the mark! The fan was spinning but not fast enough (according to my repair guy). Thanks again!"
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Oncce the fridge was shut off and left for a while the cooling had come back . If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
If after about 6 hours you observe cooling it is possible that the defrost timer is faulty.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
replace the defrost timer, heater or thermostat one you have confirmed to eliminate one by one.
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