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Very easy,dirty,messy, job.
Grab few item from auto zone. Such as rtv sealant gasket itself, a blade or something to remove the old gasket. 4-8 quarts of oil 10w40 synthetic. Oil filter oil filter remover socket set.
Run car for 5 minutes. Drain oils. Recycle it... Dart removing the screws around the oil pan. Once remove clean the surface remove the old gasket with shart razor blade make sure do not damage the surface where the gasket go. The gasket go between the oil pan and the engine mating surface . Clean the pan and clear as much gunk you can out the pump opening or tube. put rtv sealant ( some don't need the gasket because they r the gasket.) place gasket putt screw back it. Change filter refill the car with oil ( 4-8 depending on engine size)
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may
cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make
every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective
gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any
other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used
engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. (except 2.5 Premier engine)
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the lubrication system for all 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines
Fig. Fig. 7: Apply sealant to the ends of the new oil pan end
seals at the junction of the cylinder block pan rail gasket-1988-95 2.2L
and 2.5L except Premier engines
Fig. 8: Clean the gasket mating surface of the oil pan of all old gasket material, dirt, grease or other grime-2.6L engine
Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, then raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
Drain the engine oil. This would also be a good time to change the oil filter.
Remove the engine-to-transaxle struts, if so equipped. These struts prohibit access to the oil pan mounting bolts.
Remove the torque converter or clutch inspection cover.
Support the oil pan and remove the mounting bolts.
Lower the pan and remove the old gasket, if so equipped.
Clean all gasket surfaces thoroughly.
For 2.6L engines, position a new gasket on the oil pan using a sealer to hold it in place.
1981-87 2.2 and 2.5 Liter engine uses a liquid form-in-place type
gasket. Chrysler Part Number 4205918, or equivalent RTV gasket material
must be used.
For 1981-87 2.2 and 2.5L engines, install new end
seals and apply the form-in-place gasket sealant. The RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately
in. (3mm) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. Uncured RTV may be removed with a rag. The oil pan should be
tightened in place while the RTV is still wet to the touch (within 10
minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly
to prevent smearing of the material off location. Make sure to apply
sealer where the end seals meet the block.
1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines utilize end seals and side gaskets, not liquid gasket as with 1981-87 models.
On 1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines, install new end seals and side
gaskets. Apply RTV sealant to the parting lines between the end and side
seals on these engines. If necessary, use a little grease or RTV
sealant to hold the side seals in place.
Tighten the pan bolts in a crisscross fashion, starting from the
center of the oil pan and working toward the ends, to the following
torque values: 2.6L engine-53-61 inch lbs. (5.9-6.8 Nm)
1981-87 2.2L and 2.5L engines-16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)
1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines-M8 bolts, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm); M6 bolt, 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Allow the oil pan to sit for 15 minutes to ensure that the RTV sealant has completely set.
Install the oil drain plug and a new oil filter, if equipped, then lower the vehicle.
I would suspect that this is an Escort style pan in which RTV is the oil pan gasket. I have always applied a thin layer of RTV to the pan and the block of the engine, allow them to dry for 1/2 hour, then reapply a second thing layer to the oil pan and install. I have never had one leak after using this method. Make sure that the bolt holes stay open during this whole process.
You can pull the motor mounts bolts and jack the motor up alittle, that will give you enough clearance to drop your oil pan. If you try and replace the timing chain cover without dropping the oil pan, you will more than likely wind up with an oil leak.
You should be able to replace the timing cover without removing the oil pan. The gasket set should contain gaskets allowing you to cut the oil pan gasket and put in a new partial gasket in this area. In the corners make sure you use some RTV sealant. If you are careful, it can be done. Like Bob A says you can end up with a oil leak without dropping the pan (unless you clean up the area and properly apply the RTV and gasket). If you have time to drop the oil pan, then I would do that.