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My TV stand is missing a bracket. There is a steel bar under the front of the middle glass shelf. This bracket holds up the steel bar. I can't find this bracket anywhere.

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  • Vicki Istre
    Vicki Istre Mar 31, 2014

    This stand came with my Mitsubishi WD-73737 bought in 2010.

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  • Master
  • 3,320 Answers

Contact the retailer. They may have a solution.

Posted on Mar 31, 2014

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1 Answer

Heavy duty construction adhesive


Ceramic is particularly difficult to bond to due to the polished surface. The shelf you describe is probably heavy, but you have no dimensions or weight provided. I see these shelves fail frequently when they are only "glued" to the wall. It should have been installed to the wall first with a bracket arrangement, then the wall flashed and tiled around the shelf (presuming you have tile walls).

I would recommend that you use stainless steel brackets fastened into the walls (may require using toggle bolts - be sure to run the bolt through the bracket first!) to support the shelf. Use brackets at each wall, then use silicone sealant over the fastener heads. Use the largest brackets that the shelf will allow, you might be able to just epoxy the shelf on top of the brackets rather than trying to install fasteners into the shelf piece, which might break it.

This vendor has nice stainless steel brackets:http://www.gsproducts.co.uk/stainless-steel-corner-angle-brackets/

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How do I lift out built-in KitchenAid glass cooktop KECT 365 when mounting brackets wern't used


You are either:
A) missing the mounting screws and brackets that hold the unit in place
B) it is stuck and will require brute force to remove
C) both

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1 Answer

Stand tvpartsguy


I tried all of your suggestions, to no avail. I contacted the manufacturer and they haven't made this TV stand for several years. I guess I'll have to think of a way to hold the glass shelf up another way.

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How hard is it to replace the front sway bar bushings on my 04 camry se


Here are general instructions for replacing this part.
Instructions
    • 1Park the vehicle on a paved level surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind of the rear tires and open the hood of the vehicle. This will help to allow some light down into the engine compartment for you when you're underneath it.
    • 2Lift the left front quarter of the vehicle with the floor jack and place a jack stand in a safe and secure location. A front frame rail would be ideal if applicable. Repeat this step for the right front quarter to elevate the front axle.
    • 3. Put on the safety glasses, grab the tools, replacement bushings, and creeper and crawl under the front of the vehicle.
    • 4Locate the sway bar bushings by following the sway bar from the links behind the front tire(s) to where it is mounted to the undercarriage of the car by a bracket. In some vehicles, it may be necessary to remove heat shield, brackets or other components to obtain access to the sway bar brackets for removal. If this is the case, remove anything to help you gain access. The brackets are mounted by one or two bolts. Sometimes the bolt may be steadied with a nut or sometimes it may be screwed into a fixed threaded hole in the undercarriage. Remove the bolts using the ratchet, socket and hand wrench if necessary. One bolt sway bar brackets will have a hinged top or bottom that you'd swing away once the single bolt was extracted.
    • 5Slide the old bushing along the sway bar to a location that's easy for you to extract it from the sway bar. Pry the slotted opening of the bushing using the pry bar to convince it off of the sway bar. The bushing are generally a rubber coated steel bushing so they're going to come off stubbornly. Place the new bushing onto the sway bar in the same fashion. Since they're new, they're going to be even more stubborn than the old one(s).
    • 6Position the bushing back in the correct location on the sway bar and replace the brackets. Tighten with the ratchet, socket and hand wrench as necessary.
    • 7Replace any components that you may have had to remove. Collect all the tools and debris from under the vehicle and crawl out. Lower the vehicle, close the hood, and remove the wheel chock.

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1 Answer

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Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
    Using care not to damage the front stabilizer bar link ball stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front shock absorber nut.




  1. Using care not to damage the front stabilizer ball link stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front stabilizer bar nut.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage the ball joint boot.
    With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear sub-frame retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar bracket bolts, stabilizer bar brackets, stabilizer bar bracket insulators and front stabilizer bar (5482) as required.
Installation
  1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar bracket insulator installation position.
  1. Lubricate inside diameter of new stabilizer bar bracket insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A or equivalent. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber stabilizer bar bracket insulators.
  1. Install new stabilizer bar bracket insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
  1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on stabilizer bar bracket insulators and install new bolts. Tighten to 55-63 Nm (40-46 lb-ft).
  1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Tighten to 115-132 Nm (85-97 lb-ft).
  1. Install front stabilizer bar link (5K483) to front shock absorber. Use care not to damage link ball joint boot seal.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
    Install a new front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut. Tighten to 90-100 Nm (66-74 lb-ft).

  2. 66a0f1a.gif

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1 Answer

Front Sway bar(Stabilizer bar)


please give good rating if this helps


Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
  1. sth~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
    Remove and discard nuts retaining stabilizer bar link (5K484) assembly to front stabilizer bar (5482) and front shock absorber (18124) with an 8 mm closed-end wrench and an 18 mm open-end wrench.


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  1. Remove nuts retaining steering gear (3504) to front sub-frame, and move steering gear off the front sub-frame.
  1. With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear subframe retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).




  1. Remove front stabilizer bar U-bracket bolts and replacestabilizer bar brackets and/or front stabilizer bar as required. Discard lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator (5493) and bolts.
Installation
  1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar insulator installation position.
  1. Lubricate inside diameter of new lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulators.
  1. Install new lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
  1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on front sub-frames and install new bolts. Tighten to 30-40 Nm (22-29 lb-ft).
  1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Position steering gear onto front sub-frame and install retaining nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. sth~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
    Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber and to front stabilizer bar, making sure that the stabilizer bar link is properly positioned. The letters "Top LH" and "Top RH" are moulded into the stabilizer bar link for correct assembly to the front shock absorber strut.
  1. Install new nuts and secure stabilizer bar link assembly to front stabilizer bar and front shock absorber. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft) at front shock absorber strut and 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft) at front stabilizer bar.
  1. Remove safety stands.
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http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/54436.gif Maybe this diagram will help you. www.partselect.com I just replaced the Crisper Shelf Frame. I received it very quickly. I am now looking for some sort of support for the whole shelf, because it still seems to be sagging. I may have to invent something. If anyone out there has a solution, please post it.

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