Question about KitchenAid A-9 Electric Burr Grinder

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Reach/remove pin. This post/shaft is too tall to be able to reach, remove existing broken pin and replace. This KitchenAid A-9 is KCG200WH1. Should I take the bottom of the machine off, then will it pull out from below? Frustrating. I have seen pictures of the pin as it should be, but the shaft doesn't look as tall as mine. Both burrs are out. The top burr has a part, looks like a black umbrella. Today the mill is running really well, beautiful grounds that look like ground coffee from a can. However, I can disassemble again, take a picture. I figure it will soon start spraying grounds and screaming if I don't replace that pin. Thanks.

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  • Patricia
    Patricia Apr 07, 2014

    Thanks for all feedback. As it turns out, this model needed a little extra work. I removed the shaft assembly from the bottom, replaced the broken pin and it's more noisy then before, but grinding like a champ. The nut under the bottom burr is not tight but it's clean and working well. It was suggested that I apply "food grease." After spending 8.00, and not knowing exactly where to put it, I don't see a difference.

  • Patricia
    Patricia Apr 07, 2014

    Thanks for all feedback. As it turns out, this model needed a little extra work. I removed the shaft assembly from the bottom, replaced the broken pin and it's more noisy then before, but grinding like a champ. The nut under the bottom burr is not tight but it's clean and working well. It was suggested that I apply "food grease." After spending 8.00, and not knowing exactly where to put it, I don't see a difference.

  • Patricia
    Patricia Apr 07, 2014

    Sorry about repeat, don't know how to delete it. Important to know model KCG200WH1, as different. Also, I am left with a small silver, pretty washer that came out from somewhere. It's too pretty to be from the inside, so I'm assuming it belongs around the toggle switch. I'm not going to mess with that as I will not remove the bottom again. That switch tends to go sideways, rather than up and down if not exact. Done.



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Patricia, I am not sure which model you have old or new. I have the old one built in the 30's. I had to replace the shear pin and the carbon brushes for the motor. I took the bottom off which has a ball bearing resting loosely in a cavity in the bottom plate. Don't lose it. Now the brushes I found at an ace hardware. Take the old ones to compare. I think there was a bracket holding the brushes and rotor in. Once the rotor was out you could get the brushes out. Putting the brushes in required figuring out how to keep the brushes retracted. I used a piece of paper and used it hold them back while sliding in the rotor. Once in pull the paper out.
Now the shear pin needs to be in to prevent damage to the grinder in case what you are grinding has something too hard to grind like a small rock, I think if you push up on the rotor when the bottom plate is off or pulling up on the shaft it might give enough clearance to put the shear pin in. It sits very close to the bottom of the shaft so it can be fun trying to line it up. I used needle nose pliers to hold the pin just right while pulling up on the shaft. I bought the shear pin off of ebay

Posted on Mar 31, 2014

  • Patricia
    Patricia Mar 31, 2014

    Thank you, I'm keeping all these notes. I have 2 mills and the 2003 bought new is perfect. The other, circa 2006 is the one with broken pin. It's crazy because it's so near the bottom of the shaft to get at. I any event, is working so well with half a pin, I'm going to grind up all that is in the jar before I proceed. The folks who sell the pins on eBay are trying to help. I'm sending a picture once I stock up on ground breakfast beans. I'll post when I get this thing figured out, and I will.

  • iar823pilot Apr 07, 2014

    The sounding worse isn't good but they do make some noise but if it sounds like metal contact then a little more work might be in order. On my 1930/40s model It was making those scrapping screeching sounds and I found the carbon brushes for the rotor in the motor had been worn down until they were basically square blocks instead of the longer length normal new brushes are. What was happening was the brushes would cant a little so only a part of it was making contact and causing the scrappy squeal. New brushes and normal grinding noises. Another possibility is the grinding teeth are barely touching during the grind for which you have to adjust the distance between the grinding wheels. Hope this helps;.



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