Question about Samsung DLP HL-P5663W 56" TV

4 Answers

SAmsung DLP Model # HZN617WX/XAA

My TV will not come back on.
I have replaced the DLP Lamp and also the lamp ballast.
When I turn the unit on it will make a sound like R2D2 in STars Wars and then it sound like it is trying to turn on put I get no picture or sound at all.
When I look at the back of the unit I can see two little green lights that turn on. Should there be more?
What should I do next?
Thanks Dan

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  • 3 more comments 
  • Dan Martinez Nov 01, 2007

    The lights are blinking.

    But I also do in a new lamp ballast already.

    What should I do next?

    Thanks Dan

  • camram Nov 25, 2007

    I have a 61" samsung DLP tv one of the earlier models. I chaged the lamp about one year ago. I have a problem when I turn on the tv, it sounds like the tv is trying to come on but i get no picture and the power switch keeps on turning on and off.

  • rad55 Nov 19, 2008

    I am having the same problem with a 42 inch DLP I replaced the lamp but still no picture and makes the same noises as Danny is describing??

  • DUBIEE Jan 06, 2009

    I have a 617 and it just started to do the same thing no pix no sound on and off cycling

  • Anonymous Apr 28, 2009

    Ok, I have a simular issue. I have pic but no sound. Got a new bulb and housing but it didn't solve the problem. TV also cycles on and off every 20 seconds. What do I change now? The ballast?



4 Answers

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It sounds like the ballast that powers your lamp is bad. What are the indicator lights on the front of the tv doing?

Posted on Oct 31, 2007

  • Mike Kaiser Nov 02, 2007

    you can try making sense of the troubleshooting below otherwise give an email address and i will send the file

    When the
    Timer, Lamp,
    and Abnormal
    LED indicators
    flicker simulta-
    Ballast CN2 terminal
    Ballast CN1 terminal
    *When measuring voltage,
    make sure to measure the
    voltage between the two
    1. If the 3 LED indicators flicker from the time the set is
    turned on, it means:
    1) The CN106 connector on the DMD board is not inserted
    2) The MDR cable that connects the DIGITAL board to the
    DMD board is not connected properly.
    3) If the lamp does not turn on even after turning it on three
    times, by powering off/on 15 second intervals:
    ! The B+ 380V power is not supplied to the ballast
    (The cable is not connected properly between the power
    and the ballast.)
    @ The cable connected to the CN110 terminal on the
    DMD board and the CN2 terminal on the ballast is short-
    circuited or not connected.
    # The lamp does not turn on because 5V has not been
    supplied to blue pin #1 on the CN2 terminal of the
    $ 5V is supplied to the CN2 terminal on the ballast but the
    lamp does not turn on because the ballast has a failure.
    (If the lamp is replaced and 5V is supplied normally to
    the CN2 terminal, suspect a ballast failure if the lamp still
    does not turn on.)
    % The ballast is normal but the lamp doest not turn on.
    (When 5V is supplied to CN2 and 385V to CN1, but the
    lamp does not turn on, try replacing the lamp. If it turns
    on, that means it was a lamp failure.)
    4) The color wheel engaged to the engine does not operate,
    or the connector which indicates the operation of the
    color wheel is not connected properly, and therefore
    does not allow the lamp to turn on. The cause can be
    determined when the set still does not turn on after
    attempting to turn it on three times.
    5) Another digital board or the DMD board has a failure.
    Conclusively, if the three LED indicators flicker, first
    check the above five items, then check the various
    connector connections, and then suspect a failure of the
    lamp or the ballast.
    MDR cable
    Color wheel
    Color wheel index connector
    Lamp connector


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Probably a bad or broken color wheel.Very common with Samsung DLP.If the wheel doesn't start to turn,the lamp ballast won't fire the lamp.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

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Posted on Oct 18, 2009

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I was having flickering, and then blackout, overeat and lamp led's blinking. I figured it was all dusty inside. I pulled the back cover, removed the screws holding the light housing in. (3) brass screws are visible through smaller door opening, top left screw holds light box, screws along bottom holds ballast board in, took top left screw out, pulled light box out, had plug on bottom side, very nice. Then I lifted the board out, it has (2) plugs to it, 1 big two wire plug outside edge of board, I removed this plug to pull out the ballast board, removed visable dust, then replaced board, visually no burned connections or resistors, tighhtened screws to secure board, reversed all disssembly actions in order above, dusting as I went. All good so far put the cover back on so the blue switch behind it is in the down pos. helpful info for testing, power on w/small door removed, (trip switch to down position gently) will allow you to test before final closing !!!!DANGEROUS!!!! but useful for the trouble shooting I could have avoided later see why. Do at your own risk, I was fine but I only touched what i knew wasnt live, screws and plastic cover to lightbulb box. I did final closing and tried it out. NOTHING, Oh my what have I done, I took a 20 min. break and gathered my thoughts. I went back in, I got more light on the area I was in, the other smaller plug w/wires I didn't detail earlier now comes into play, it's a 5 wire mini white clip plug 4-white, 1 blue at end of clip, it was still plugged in on the ballast end but on the opposite end of the wire, unplugged. So small I could'nt find recepticle for it, looked in the area of where it was laying (it ran up to the top of a silver cover w/ holes allover) Almost all the way to the right on top of the holed panel was a plug. I took apart the fan assembly (after that there are three spring loaded screws, holding cooling fins to the panel, very light tension, nothing pops out, but dont lose the springs when you pull the screws out) to remove that panel because the wire group wasn't long and had a clear plastic sleeve over it and I knew it went somwhere, tilted the holed panel toward me and saw the plug (very sneaky), plugged it in (it only goes one way) and reassembled the fan assembly which may not have needed to be disassembled, but made it easier I'm sure. I didn't take the light or ballast out this time, so it was easier. Now the trick from earlier, I plugged it in and gently engaged the small blue switch to the down position. Asked assistant to power on while I held the switch down to check airflow, light coming on, ballast firing, all good ,everything worked and great. Powered down at the main switch, waited about 1 1/2 minutes until fan stopped, reinstalled cover, powered back up, good as new. maybe that plug became somehow dislodged on yours, unknowingly as mine did because of the similar symptoms no picture, no sound and repeated attempts to fire. I was extremely careful it still was not enough. It fixed it though. Scoundrel to savior all in the same day, nice. Take a look to see if that wire was removed some how and try to plug it back in. If not, sorry, I was so happy I wanted to help someone else save some money if possible. I repeat, I do not condone the removal of the cover as pertaining to warranty concerns or safety. I did, but I may have been the lucky or crazy one. It worked for me and I would do it again and better next time.

Posted on Nov 15, 2007

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How to Replace the Ballast in a Samsung DLP

Fist what is a TV ballast?

A television's ballast is a device connected to the lamp that provides an electric current, keeping the lamp operational. If you have a new lamp that isn't working properly, then you will more than likely need to replace the ballast. Replacing your television's ballast is less challenging than working with other parts of a Samsung Television, and is something that you should be able to do yourself.

  1. Remove the back panel of your Samsung DLP television, and then remove the lamp.
  2. Carefully unscrew the cover sensor switch, which should be located near the bottom-right side.
  3. Remove the two screws holding the lamp connector in place and slide it out.
  4. Remove the screws holding the inside unit of the TV in place, and very carefully ease the right side out, allowing access to the ballast.
  5. Unscrew the circuit board, remove the two cables going to the existing ballast and replace it with the new ballast in the same fashion.
  6. Put the inside unit of the television back in place and screw it in.
  7. Reattach the cover sensor switch.
  8. Reinstall the lamp and screw the back panel of the television back into position.
hope it works..

this is a image of the ballast of a Samsung .


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Have you reset the lamp time after lamp replacement? If you wish to get more details, check this site. Pull up older posts there. Check the site with patience, as it has over 2250 posts now. All are related to electronic equipment repair help. Search the site by 'Timeslide' option. It will make search easy. Or, type in the brand name to your device into its search box, and press "Enter"

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Hello Fonzell!
Regarding the tv turning, my question is, do you hear a clicking sound? if so, it's most probable tio be your ballast, that might not have enough voltage to keep on with your lamp, and that's why it shuts off.
You could try replacing it and seeing if it resolves your issue, I believe they're running around 70 dlls..
have a great one ! :)

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