- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Justin, Not sure if you put in new brake shoes/drums etc. Brake Pedal should be firm not spongy when you press brake down, and not spongy. Push brake pedal down hard and hold, if pedal sinks to floor you have air in lines or bad brake wheel cylinder. When adjusting the brakes , Make sure Master brake cylinder is full!...Have the tire/wheel bolted on...adjust the brakes so brake shoes cannot be tightened up against drum any further. This will center the whole assembly. Wheel should not be able to spin whatsoever...Then back off the star adjuster to loosen one click at a time while trying to spin the wheel. Make so the wheel just barely turns without the brake shoe dragging (inside assembly) on the brake drum. Do the other side so it is exactly them same looseness as other. I like to have brake adjustment so wheel turns almost completely freely with a little drag from brake shoe. Then try driving. If still same pulling...Bleed the brakes to remove air out. (Should be You tube videos showing how) While bleeding brakes, remove master brake cylinder and refill with fluid after you bleed the brake line for each time you bleed then close the brake line bleed bolt/screw. After you do left and rt front...then trying driving again. IF it still pulls....You can disassemble the whole front brake system both sides and rebuild both of the brake cylinders with kit or buy new assembled brake cylinders and replace by simply unbolting old and bolt in new. Clean all brake parts and backing plate with brake cleaner spray from auto stores One or both brake cylinder pistons inside the cylinders maybe corroded/dirty and seizing up causing one side to be doing al the braking. It would be a good time to buy all new hardware kit for each front assembly as well as long as you have it apart. With brakes removed...have brake drums checked to see if still in spec...as drums could be worn out past spec...If worn uneven ...have them turned/machined just the minimum amount to bring back in spec. Good time to replace inner and outer wheel bearings as well if not replaced for long time. Be on the safe side...Many local car clubs have members who would be happy to help you. Check your local National Street Rod Association for help! There are repair manuals for your Pontiac you can buy as well. Some people might tell you to put on expensive disc brake conversion...Don't ...unless you are filthy rich. It's Simply not needed. Good Luck. Many online you tube videos showing you what to do. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=youtube+drum+brake+job+gto+pontiac&qpvt=you+tube+drum+brake+job+gto+pontiac&FORM=VDRE#view=detail&mid=EBD1745168240C7F48ABEBD1745168240C7F48ABhttp://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=youtube+drum+brake+job+gto+pontiac&qpvt=you+tube+drum+brake+job+gto+pontiac&FORM=VDRE#view=detail&mid=955B60F3A419765C311F955B60F3A419765C311F
Firs, put a clamp (or a helper) to hold the working end of the brakes against the wheel rim, this will make the brake cable loose. Now loosen the "anchor bolt" (see three different kinds of brakes pictured below) where the cable attached, then pull the slack out of the cable and retighten the anchor bolt. That provides a big adjustment. Now to make a finer adjustment, use the adjusting barrel. Good luck!
The front brake is cable operated on all Panheads. There is a tube that the cable runs down through to the brake backing plate. At the top of the tube is an adjuster. Hold the top of the adjuster and turn the nut raising the adjuster. This tightens the brake.
If the adjuster is all the way up, you'll have to lower it all the way back down. Then pull your front wheel off and loosen the cable clamp on the cable. Pull the slack out of the cable and retighten the clamp. Put the front wheel and brake drum back on and adjust the brake at the top of the tube.
The best method for adjusting your rear brakes assuming that they are of drum type, is to jack up the rear axle one side at a time and remove the rubber cap on the inner brake plate.Block your front wheels forward and rear. Then with a brake adjustment tool available at most auto part stores, turn the adjuster in the "only" direction that it will turn. The vehicle must not be in park to do this, so make sure she's on level ground. Once you've done this, spin the tire of the wheel you are working on and adjust the brake until you feel a slight drag on the tire. You can also listen to hear the brake shoue touching the drum. You also might want to have someone press the brake pedal occasionallly to "center" the the shoes. Thank you, Dana
there is no adjusting brakes you can bleed them ,your best course of action is to take a tire off at a time and check your shoes or pads if your pads are good then you need to bleed your brake starting with the lright rear then left rear then right front then left .
Check your entire brake system for leaks including the master cylinder, there is a leak somewhere and needs repair. Flush out old brake fluid and bleed system properly to get ALL the air out of system. Replace the rotors when you do a front brake job also. Check rear brakes for condition and adjustment.
NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies.
NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush.
NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.