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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.
This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).
The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.
If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly
Take a look at your engine parts manual here:
Watch item 22 and 4 (pdf file page 5) as the engine unloads to see if it is rocking. If it is stuck in one position it will do exactly what you describe.
Also check the 2 springs items 4 and 5 (pdf file page 7.) If one of them is broken it can cause the problem.
What I really think is happening is that the throttle linkage is moving too far and striking the kill switch on the control lever (pdf file page 7) item 14. Watch to see if the linkage is moving and striking the engine stop switch.
Your engine also has an engine fuel pump. Item 1 of pdf file page 19. This pump is operated by the difference in crankcase and carb throat pressure. If any of the hoses are leaking it can cause the fuel pump not to work at low engine speeds and result in engine fuel starvation.
This particular engine is really fussy when the lines get old, crack, or harden. Take a long look at the condition of all of the vacuum, fuel and breather lines.
I can't say that it is the ___ line / hose is causing the problem because there are too many and any one of them can give you fits.
Download the manual... look at the linkages and hoses. I am sure your going to find the cause if you give it a good look over.
Thanks for using FixYa,
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
SOURCE: What kind of oil do
Pressure washer oil
I took this picture of my power washer so it's easy to explain the oil.
The oil is different for engine and pump.
The pump oil is 20 or 30 weight non-detergent. SAE20 or SAE30 motor oil. The level of the oil comes up about half way. There is a plastic viewport on side of pump ... oil comes up half way on viewport.
The engine oil is 10W30 motor oil. It comes up about half way or a bit more on dipstick.
To remove oil from pressure washer, do not turn engine on it's side or turn engine upside down or motor oil will run into the carburetor. You might wonder how I know that. Afterward, the carburetor needs to be cleaned out.
To remove oil, you can tip engine to the side but not so much that oil runs up into top part ... to remove the rest of the oil, you can use a plastic hose
Posted on Oct 19, 2010
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