Question about Frigidaire Gallery Series GLHS269ZDB 36" 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator w/ 7 Button Dispense...

2 Answers

Freezer works great; frig only at 57-59 degrees. I melted the ice totalling blocking the air duct. I checked the fan, it works outside with 120 applied. There is 120 going to the power at the quick disconnect calling for the fan to run. I can't tell for sure if the fan is turning, fully assembled; or not. I guess it could be restricted?? I can't imagine what else could be wrong. When I melted the ice in the duct, I did a very thorough job. I set the freezer to warmest and frig to coldest. Can you help?

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  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    Hi I have done this three times. The second time I left it unplugged for two weeks with the doors open. I checked the fan out of the freezer, it runs fine. There is 120 on the quick disconnect plug at the back of the freezer; calling for the fan to run. This is the top freezer bottom frig model. Please correct the model type on the request. After the two week defrost I ran it for a week, it never got the frig below 55 and the duct totally blocked with ice again. The freezer works great. I set the freezer to warmest and the frig to coldest.

  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    yes the door seal is very good

  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    The door seal I believe is ok. I can pull the dollar bill out without a lot of resistance, but the seal is good enough to resist opening the door for the first 1/4 inch of pull. It feels like suction for the first 1/4 inch of travel towards open, then it lets go.

  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    This is a top freezer model. Freezer works great; frig cools to only at 57-59 degrees. I melted the ice totalling blocking the air duct. I checked the fan, it works outside with 120 applied. There is 120 going to the power at the quick disconnect calling for the fan to run. I can't tell for sure if the fan is turning, fully assembled; or not. I guess it could be restricted?? I can't imagine what else could be wrong. When I melted the ice in the duct, I did a very thorough job. For the test run, I set the freezer to warmest and frig to coldest. I checked the door seal. I left it to defrost for 2 weeks. After 2 days of not getting below 55 the duct was fully frozen up again. Can you help?

  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    Model # GLRT186TA 18.3 Cu

    How do you check to see if defrost timer is advancing/switching.
    How -- Check defrost heater.
    How -- Check defrost thermostat. (Limiter)

    There is no ice build-up on the coils, I am pretty sure. I can check again, I don't remember how long (in mins) it took me to get to the disassembling of the freezer compartment in my repair effort. Also the freezer freezes quickly and very solid. The frig temp is the lowest since the prob started -- 49.5, it's been running 3 days with freezer 1/2 full ice cubes and frig 10% full juice cartons. and fruit.

  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    Hi that is great info -- but can you see if I need to do each of these. some are a bit difficult. The reason I ask is when I open it back up I am sure I will find this condition. The duct will be frozen shut; the coils will be free of ice; If so what allows the duct to freeze if the coils are free of ice.??

  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    Hi ---- where is the defrost timer switch? I found the defrost timer. Also I was wrong on my last guess. When I open it up this time there was no ice on coils and the two ducts were completely clear. I opened it up quickly to avoid melting before I could check for ice. ???'s what could be wrong? Still 52 min temp -- freezer works great.

  • bberger632 Jun 15, 2009

    The defrost timer does not test ok! All terminals are open to all others. Why does this cause a problem?? the freezer and the duct aren't iced up! I fear if I replace this timer it still won't be fixed. Can you explain how it prevents the frig from not cooling if there is no ice - anywhere?

  • bberger632 Jun 16, 2009

    THAT'S A VERY GOOD EXPLANATION! But (always a but) I checked the 120 volts on the plug to the fan and 120 is there telling the fan to run. If you have time I'm interested in your comment. Thank you and I will send payment for your help now. Bob Berger

  • bberger632 Jun 16, 2009

    Very Helpful, got to the problem quickly. And explained why.

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  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

Check to see if defrost timer is advancing/switching.
Check defrost heater.
Check defrost thermostat. (Limiter)

One (or more) of these has failed.

When the defrost timer, heater, or thermostat fail - it will allow for the build-up of ice on the coils.

Without an exact model #, this is as far as we can go for remote troubleshooting.

If you wish - please use the "Continue With This Expert" option so we are connected in the future, and reply with the make/model # for more exact help.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 15, 2009

    TESTING THERMOSTAT:



    Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.














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    The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer.



    The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel.



    The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

    Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced.



  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 15, 2009

    TESTING DEFROST TIMER:



    Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost timer.


    Before you begin to test your defrost timer, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

    Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.


    1. Locate your defrost timer. It can be located behind the refrigerator's lower kickplate, in the refrigerator's control panel, or even behind the refrigerator on its back wall. Defrost timers almost always have four metallic terminals extending from the bottom. Once you have found your refrigerator's defrost timer, remove it for testing.


    2. A defrost timer is usually secured inside a refrigerator with at least one screw, but sometimes more. Remove all the screws you find and pull the timer carefully out of the refrigerator. Pull it out far enough so that you can disconnect its wires. Pull firmly on the wire's connectors to remove them. You may need to rock them back and forth a little to ease the motion. Don't worry about which way the connector comes out because there is only one way it can go back in.


    3. Use your multitester to test the timer for continuity. Set your multitester to the R X 1 scale. Place one of the tester's leads on the coommon terminal. It should be labeled "3" or "C". If none of the terminals are labeled, you can locate the common terminal by determining which terminal coincides with the white wire in the connector plug. With one multitester lead (probe) touching the common terminal, touch the other lead to the other three remaining terminals, one at a time. Testing the first pair should produce a reading of zero, or near zero, denoting continuity. The second pair may also result in a reading of zero or near zero. Testing the third pair of terminals should produce a reading of infinity.


    4. Find your refrigerator's timer switch and turn it in a clockwise motion until it clicks. Use your multitester and test the terminals again in the same manner as in the preceding paragraph. In this test, one of the pairs of terminals should produce a reading of continuity. At least one pair, but maybe two, should produce a reading of infinity. One important note to keep in mind is that a pair of terminals that demonstrated continuity in the first test should now demonstrate infinity. Likewise, a pair of terminals that demonstrated infinity in the first test should now demonstrate continuity.


    5. If the test you conduct with your defrost timer does not produce these results, then you should replace the mechaninsm.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 15, 2009

    TESTING DEFROST HEATER:



    Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost heater.


    Before you begin to test your defrost heater, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.

    Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.


    1. Locate your defrost heater. It can be located behind the back panel of the freezer section of your refrigerator, or under the floor of your refrigerator's freezer section. Defrost heaters are commonly located beneath a refrigerator's evaporator coils. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.


    2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.


    3. Defrost heaters are available in one of three primary types: exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape, or a wire coil inside a glass tube. Each of these three types is tested in exactly the same way.


    4. Before you can test your defrost heater, you have to remove it from your refrigerator. A defrost heater is connected by two wires, and the wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly grasp these connectors and pull them off the terminals. You may need a pair of needle-nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.


    5. Use your multitester to test the heater for continuity. Set your multitester to the R X 1 scale. Place the tester's leads on one terminal each. This should produce a reading anywhere in between zero and infinity. If your multitester produces a reading of zero, or a reading of infinity, then your defrost heater should most definitely be replaced. There are many different kinds of elements, and so it is difficult to say what exactly the reading should be for your defrost heater. But it definitely should not be zero or infinity. If it is, replace the mechanism.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 15, 2009

    CLICK HERE for the Defrost Timer in your unit (most likely in your case)



    CLICK HERE for the Thermostat in your unit



    CLICK HERE for the defrost heater in your unit.



    Your symptoms lead me to believe the Defrost timer is the failed culprit in this case.

    You can find it in THIS DIAGRAM as #23



    Any other questions - let me know.



    Thanks for using FixYa!!



  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 15, 2009

    The defrost timer is what tells the compressor to turn off... and when to turn on the evap. fan.
    If your timer is bad - the compressor runs non-stop - very inefficiently... and the fan will never come on to circulate the cold air from the freezer.The freezer is cold - but without the fant to move the air around - the fridge will never get cool.

    Any other ?'s dont hesitate to ask - thats why we're here.

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 16, 2009

    CLICK HERE for an electrical schematic of your unit.

    Please see that the cold controller for the fridge is BEFORE the timer - so any input gained from it is now controlled by the timer.

    The timer's output controls the heater, and the defrost thermostat, and both the evap. and condenser fans.

    If you are testing the freezer fan with the door open, and not jumpered - the fan will continually be send voltage because it senses the door open. Once you close the door - chances are it turns off.

    Sadly the more elaborate diagram I have access to is illegible... and it would tell me the location of the switch in the circuit.

    HERE is the diagram - maybe your monitor has better resolution... but it looks fuzzy to me.

    Let me know If i can help further.

    Thanks!!



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  • Master
  • 3,614 Answers

Hi there,

Do completely defrosting first the unit. Better to move any food that need to be refrigerated on other fridge available, this will help you determine if the evaporator fan was faulty. also defrosting the unit can resolve this issue.

Let me know for any clarifications

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

  • micromaster
    micromaster Jun 15, 2009

    did you already check the door rubber gasket if it is properly fitted on the unit.?

  • micromaster
    micromaster Jun 15, 2009

    Sometimes it happen that the refrigerator gasket (usually a rubber seal
    around the door) becomes hard or cracked, its seal is broken, and the
    unit's efficiency drops sharply.
    You can test it by placing a
    dollar bill between the gasket and the door jamb by closing the door.
    Pull out the $ bill, if it gives some resistance, means the gasket
    works properly. If the bills comes right out, or fall out, this means
    that you have a faulty door gasket and you should replace.

    Test the door on several locations around the door to check the door for leakage.

    Hope this initial info helps.


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This answer will be somewhat long, but in order to understand the "fix" for your problem you need to understand how a refrigerator-freezer works.

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