Can not put back access cover with transmission shafts into transmission chamber

1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement ,same for other shift solenoids !
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement . Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness.
Control Valve Body Cover Replacement
Removal Procedure

1. Remove the air inlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.4L.
2. Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side in Engine Mechanical.
3. Remove the shift cable bracket from the transmission.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
5. Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
6. Remove the left engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement in Body Front End.
7. Remove the left tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Refer to Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement in Power Steering System.

Remove the left wheel speed sensor harness connector (2) and the harness (1) from the lower control arm. Remove the left lower ball joint from the left steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. Remove the left stabilizer . Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications in Suspension. Reposition and secure the drive axle toward the rear of the vehicle. Remove the trans mount nuts at the frame.
Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or damage to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
Remove the intermediate shaft (1) from the steering gear (2). Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column - Tilt.
Support the left side of the frame with a utility stand. Remove the left side frame bolts. Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the powertrain enough to gain access the case side cover bolts.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the frame enough to access the case side cover lower bolts. Position the drain pan under the transaxle. Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness electrical connectors.
Remove the case side cover bolts (56-58). 56 are regular bolts ,58 are studs .
Remove the case side cover pan (53).
If not replacing the side cover, steps 24, 25, 26, and 27 are not required.
Remove the case side cover gasket (54). Remove the case side cover inner gasket (59).
Inspect the case side cover (53) for the following conditions:
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Damaged or porous gasket sealing surfaces

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Damaged or porous casting surfaces

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Damaged or stripped bolt holes

Inspect the case side cover gasket (54) and case side cover inner gasket (59) for damage. The gaskets are reusable if they are NOT damaged. Clean the case side cover gasket surfaces
Install the 1-2 shift solenoid (315A). Connect the transaxle wiring harness. Install the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: It is recommended that transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information be reset.
Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, The ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
Reset the TAP values. Refer to Transmission Adaptive Functions .
Good luck , this job is a real pain in the ***

remove the drive shaft ( tail shaft) lever out the old seal. put sealer around new seal and fit back in extension housing. Use something that is the same size as the outer edge of the seal and tap it in flush with the edge of the transmission housing. Expect some oil to drain out when the tail shaft and seal is removed

The torque convertor is the part between the engine and the transmission. It is bolted to the "flex plate", or flywheel. You have to remove the engine or the transmission to gain access to it.

Remove or disconnect the following:

Battery cables Battery and tray Breather tube Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor Intake tube and air cleaner cover Air cleaner assembly Transmission Range (TR) sensor Heated Oxygen (H0 2 S) sensors Transmission harness connector and bracket Wire harness bracket spacer and move the bracket aside Shift cable Shift cable bracket and move the bracket aside Starter electrical connectors Starter Electrical connectors from the valve cover and install an engine support bar Upper transmission retaining bolts Left side upper transmission mounting plate Rear transmission mount Right side engine mount bolt and slightly raise the engine Both front wheels and splash shields Right side halfshaft and intermediate shaft assembly after matchmarking them Cross brace Center exhaust pipe and rubber hanger Front exhaust pipe and flange Rear exhaust pipe flange Driveshaft PTU vent tube Lower transmission bracket Access cover Flexplate nuts Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) sensor Fluid cooler tube and move it aside Fluid cooler line and install a transmission jack Bolts from the PTU unit Transmission with the PTU unit attached

The clutch is a friction disk up against the flywheel and pressed against it by the clutch pressure place. So you have to remove the transmission in order to gain access.
For that you:
disconnect battery
drop drive shaft
remove speedometer cable or wire, shift and clutch linkage
support engine and transmission separately.
remove rear support
remove engine to transmission bolts, cover plate, and starter
slide transmission back until input shaft clears clutch pressure plate ring
lower transmission.
remove pressure plate evenly and slowly

Then you inspect for wear on the pilot bushing the input shaft rests on, the friction disc is assumed to be too thin, the pressure plate should not show heat damage or scratching, and the throw out bearing should not be noisy.

Installation is reverse except you use a fake plastic input shaft in order to firmly locate the friction disk in the right place, when bolting pressure plate on. Remember to tighten evenly, diagonally, and not to break off any bolts by over tightening. Remove fake plastic input shaft before continuing then.

Removal & Installation 4L60E/4L65E To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Transmission fluid
   • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
   • Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
   • Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Shift cable end from the transmission shift lever ball stud
   • If equipped with a transfer case, remove the front propeller shaft.
   • Rear propeller shaft.
2. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Starter motor.
   • Transfer case, if equipped.
4. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
5. Remove the transmission mount nuts.
6. Remove the transmission crossmember.
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Torque converter access plug 4L60E/4L65E removal
     
     
   • Flywheel to torque converter bolts
   • The two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
   • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
   • The stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine
   • The six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Install tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter. Pull the transmission straight back.
   • The transmission from the vehicle
8. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter.
   • Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
2. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
3. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
4. Install or connect the following:
   • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • Stud and bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • Flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 46 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
   • Torque converter access plug.
   • Transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
   • Two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
   • Two bolts securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
   • Install the transmission crossmember. Tighten the nuts and bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
5. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
6. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
7. Install or connect the following:
   • Starter
   • Transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission
   • If equipped with a transfer case, install the front propeller shaft.
   • The rear propeller shaft
   • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
8. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
9. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
10. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
11. Lower the vehicle.

4L80E/4L85E To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Transmission fluid
   • Transmission oil level indicator tube and seal from the transmission
2. Plug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Shift cable from the transmission shift lever ball stud
   • If 4WD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
   • If RWD vehicle, remove the propeller shaft.
   • The transmission oil cooler lines from the transmission
4. Plug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Starter motor
6. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission
   • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness from the transmission
   • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission
   • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine
   • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission
   • The six flywheel to torque converter bolts
   • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission
   • The stud and the bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine
   • The remaining six studs and the one bolt securing the transmission to the engine
   • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
   4L80E/4L85E removal
   
   
8. Pull the transmission straight back. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
9. Flush the transmission oil cooler and cooling lines when you remove the transmission.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Tool J21366 onto the transmission bell housing to retain the torque converter
2. Support the transmission with a transmission jack.
3. Raise the transmission into place and remove the tool from the transmission.
4. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. The torque converter must be flush onto the flywheel and rotate freely by hand.
5. Install or connect the following:
   • Six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the studs and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • The stud and bolt on the right side securing the transmission to the engine. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • Six flywheel to torque converter bolts. Tighten the bolts to 60 Nm (44 ft. lbs.).
   • The two bolts securing the torque converter cover to the engine. Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
   • The four bolts securing the torque converter cover to the transmission. Tighten the stud and the bolt to 33 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
   • The transmission vent hose, fuel lines, and the wiring harness to the transmission.
   • The two bolts securing the heat shield to the transmission. Tighten the bolt to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
   • The two bolts and nut securing the transmission rear mount to the transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
   • The flywheel to torque converter bolts.
   • One nut and one bolt securing the transmission brace to the engine bracket and transmission. Tighten the bolts and nut to 50 Nm (37 ft. lbs.).
6. Remove the transmission jack from the transmission.
7. Install or connect the following:
   • Starter motor
8. Unplug the transmission oil cooler line connectors in the transmission case.
9. Connect the transmission oil cooler lines to the transmission.
10. Install or connect the following:
    • The transfer case
    • The rear propeller shaft
    • The shift cable end to the transmission shift lever ball stud
11. Unplug the oil level indicator tube opening in the transmission.
12. Install the transmission oil level indicator tube and seal to the transmission.
13. Tighten the oil pan bolts and fill the transmission with transmission fluid.
14. Lower the vehicle.

If all you want to do is install a the kick start case cover, drain the transmision fluid and just take the old one off along with the kicker lever intact. You'll need to look inside and see the relationship of the kicker gear stop and the kick starter lever. Then, once you see how it's supposed to look, ie. the kicker straight up and the kicker gear stop at the X o'clock positon, start taking the stuff apart. Transfer all the old parts to the new kicker cover. Align the kicker gear properly with the kicker lever. When you install the old shaft into the new cover, make sure you put a new seal in between the two bushings so it doesn't leak. Put the new cover with the rest of the kicker parts in it back on the transmission and refill the transmission with lube. 20-24 ounces.

If the clutch gear on the end of the mainshaft needs to be replaced, it's advisable to have the special puller to get it off with. If you don't have the puller, you can put some pressure on the clutch gear like you're trying to pry it off and rap on it with a hammer. Hit the side of the gear not the end of the shaft. Don't hit it hard enough to break anything, just a good tap should pop it off. If not, you'll have to find someone with a puller or buy one.

good Luck
steve

This is the sequence that I came up with.
Good or bad,please rate my post?
Thanks
Bob

Resetting the Code/Combination From a Lost Code
Simplex LP1000
Important: There is no procedure for finding an unknown combination from the front of the lock. A lost combination must be cleared by removing the combination chamber from the lock housing, then a new combination can be set.
LP1000 Series FAQ
Resetting the Code/Combination From a Lost Code
1. Remove the back plate from the front lock housing by removing the six back plate screws.
2. Remove the two Phillips head screws (F) securing the guide bracket (D
to the front housing. Grasp the guide bracket and slide it back to
disengage it from the clutch linkage (see figure 1).
3. Lift the two chamber links (A) off of the control shaft (B) using a small flat blade screwdriver. Mark links to assure proper reassembly (see figure 1).
4. Remove the combination chamber (E) by removing the Phillips head screws (G) at each end of the chamber (see figure 1).
5. Remove shaft bushing (C) from control shaft (see figure 1).
6. Remove chamber cover marked ILCO UNICAN (A) (see figure 2) by gently tapping the lip of the chamber cover (A) at the control shaft end of the
chamber (see figure 3) with a screwdriver to detach it from the staked joints (B).
7. Lay the chamber on its side as shown in figure 4.
8. With tweezers, or other tool, slide the "E" ring (B) off the unlocking slide
stud (A) (see figure 17-4), then gently lift the end of the unlocking slide (C) over the unlocking slide stud (A) (see figure 5).
Note: The unlocking slide (C) is under spring tension and will be easier to lift if pushed to the left to ease tension. Swing the unlocking slide (C) sufficiently to clear the gears, (D) no further than shown in figure 5.
9. Depress the lockout slide (E) as shown in figure 6. The gears (D) are now free to rotate.
10. Turn each gear (D) so that the slots (F) are aligned as shown in figure 6.
11. Return the unlocking slide (C) over the unlocking slide studs (A) while making certain the five toes (G) are engaged in the five gear pockets (F). It may be necessary to adjust each gear (D) slightly to make proper alignment between toes and gear slots (see figures 6 & 7).
Re-secure the "E" ring on the stud (A). Your chamber will now resemble figure 7 and is ready for reassembly with the lock housing.
REASSEMBLY
1. Re-secure the chamber cover (A) marked ILCO UNICAN. Make sure the staked joints (B) (see figure 2) on both end plates fit through both slots on the chamber cover.
2. Re-secure the shaft bushing (C) with flat side facing up (see figure 8).
3. Secure the combination chamber with the two Phillips head screws (G) you removed earlier.
4. Re-secure the chamber links (A) onto the control shaft.
5. Replace the guide bracket (D) by aligning the clutch linkage in the guide bracket and secure with the two Phillips head screws (F) previously removed.
6. Replace the back plate and secure it with the six back plate screws.
SETTING THE COMBINATION
Do not attempt to set a combination until the complete unit has been reassembled.
Perform the following steps in the order shown.
1. Turn the outside lever once to the stop position and then release.
2. Enter the new combination.
3. Turn the outside lever to the stop position, make sure the latch is fully retracted, then release
the lever.

It sounds to me like you missed the "shifter knob" on the shift shaft when you installed the transmission back into the case. If your transmission was shifting correctly on work bench, it should at least shift from first to second gear.

You're going to have to pull the transmission back out of the engine case. With the transmission out of the case, look into the the transmission cavity and hold the shift lever so that the short shift arm is level parallel to the bottom of the engine case. Mark the outer end of the shaft so that you can verify that it is still level once you get the transmission back in the case.

Now, put the shift lever (lever you shift the transmission with) temporarily on the shift shaft and support it some way so as to hold it level. Install the transmission. Now, before finishing the installation job, check to see if the shaft is still "level". Install the four bolts that hold the "acess plate" of the transmission in and try to shift through all the gears by turning the mainshaft and having someone hold or turn the countershaft. Make sure the transmission works before you finish up the job.

If the transmission still doesn't shift. Take it back out and work with it in a vise until you figure out the problem. It'll probably be something to do with the shifting mechanism rather than the gears.

Good Luck
Steve

Here is a website that a free manual can be down loaded for your vehicle


http://ezinearticles.com/?Find-the-Free-Auto-Repair-Manual-You-Need-Online&id=92717

The Sportster has a "cassette" type transmission. The transmission can be removed without the necessity of splitting the cases to get at it like most other motorcycles.

To remove the transmission one must remove the primary drive component that include the compensator sprocket, the primary chain, and the clutch assembly on the left side of the engine. On the right side of the engine, you'll have to remove the rear brake master cylinder, the front chain sprocket cover, and the front chain sprocket.

Going back to the left side of the engine and remove the four bolts that hold the transmission front plate (access cover) to the engine cases. There are two "pry points" on the access cover. Look around the edge of the cover and you will see them. Pry the access cover off gently and the transmission will come out of the engine cases. The shifter shaft will remain in the cases. When you reinstall the transmission, mark the shaft in such a manner that you can tell what position the shifter shaft finger is pointing. It should be level pointing to the rear of the engine as the transmission is reinstalled in the case.

If you can find a Clymer's manual #M428, it explains in detail the removal and repair of the transmission.