Question about Pitco Frialator Kitchen Appliances - Others
How do i Clean the Flue ?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you need to change the pressure regulator,burner orfices and possibly the gas valve.goto northernparts.com and type in the model of the fryer for propane
Posted on Dec 12, 2007
SOURCE: pitco frialator
Is it doing more than lighting the pilot light? Or is the only action is the pilot light coming on, then off?
I would need to know more spacifically which model you had. Here is a list of manuals on the manufacturers web site so you can see for yourself.
If I were to look at your unit, I would first look for, and see if there is a sensor (sometimes appears to resemble a piece of coat hanger sticking through some ceramic) that the flames will heat. The warming from the flames generates electricity. The electricity keeps the gas flowing. It is a safety device to keep your home/business from exploding from a build-up of unburnt gas.
Make sure the sensor is being hit by the flame. If it is, and the flame still goes out, then it just might be bad. I would imagine it would run about $20 for a replacement part.
if it works, great! If not, then you are only out $20.
Posted on Apr 27, 2008
I agree - What everyone fails to tell you about conversion from Natural Gas to Propane -
1 - Take your time -
2 - The parts you get may be to many
3 - If you are going to use the unitl out-side - Wind is not your friend -
4 - While 20lb tanks will work - 60lb tanks are the best
I have found that only 70% of the gas in a 20lb tank will be used - the Amount of preasure / volumne decreases as the tank gets empty - a gas grill will empty a tank - a Deep Fryer (I have a Pitco 14 and 35c) will not - therefore, 60lb tanks
5 - Also, a 3/8 hose and connections will work, but 1/2 hose and connection work better - especially with a 60lb tank
6 - Find a good welder supply store to work with to get the hoses and adapters - Stay away from Lowes, Home Depot and other Box Stores - They are ok for most things, but not this project - Pay the extra money for the right stuff.
1 - Have 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2 wrenches - Open and Box style
2 - A very good philips and slotted screw-driver
3 - Remove the Front Door and Front Panel
4 - Remove the Burners - Be careful - they are heavy and if dropped, they do crack
5 - The orfices for the burners are simple to change
6 - The Gas Regulator on the Control valve is simple - not easy to get to, but simpe to change - and make sure it is tight, (so it does not leak) but not to tight - it can craxk
7 - The silver thimbel - it is a atomizier for the pilot - is also easy to replace, but hard to get to - don't bend the gas tube to much and be carefull removing the old one - it is jamed into the pilot
8 - Wind - IS NOT YOUR FRIEND - If outside, you need to cover the left, back and right side from wind - it will push the gas out of the burner (at the orfice) and into the cabinet and it will "POP" with gas - the orfices will have little flames on them - very yellow and very bad -
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
remove connections from hi-limit switch, and put an ohm-meter across connections then heat it with a match or heat source of that temp range,heat the face and watch your meter it will show open when hi limit reaches cutoff limit/if you need exact cutout temp,you will need to have one of those digital read-out temp gun
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
First.. the burner tubes need to be cleanes...sounds like a few have soot build up. Messy job...do outside with a hose. Check the burner orifice size to make sure they are all the same.
Posted on Aug 17, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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