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Kenmore washer 80 series

Hi the water will not stop it just keeps going no matter what cycle it is in. Is something froze it another problem, I fixed the switch and that seems ok

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Hello the waster level in most washing machines is regulated from a pressure switch air activated.. From the bottom of the appliance there is a pipe that connects to a switch, it is either... Blocked, came off, or there could be a hole in the system letting air in.. It is very rare for the switch to fail but this is also possible as well as a faulty control module depending on which type of branded washing machine... Hope this helps...

Posted on Mar 30, 2014

Testimonial: "Great advise, thank you! :-):-):-):-)"

  • steve dref
    steve dref Mar 30, 2014

    yes that is it! !!! it was blocked, with ice, the water froze in the pipe. used a hair dryer and it is working, thank you :-):-):-)


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How old is this washer? Is it digital, or does it have the handle you turn to choose what kind of load you want? Which switch did you already fix?

Posted on Mar 30, 2014

Testimonial: "Not sure of age maybe 10 years old, I replaced the lid switch and it has a dial to turn for cycles"


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series washer

The switch you're talking about is called a "lid switch". It can be by-passed, but it is there for a reason. The switch is used to prevent the tub from spinning or agitating with the lid open. This is a safety measure to prevent personal injury. You mentioned that the switch was "missing". It may have simply come loose and fallen inside the washer between the case and tub. More than likely, it is hanging by a ground wire and a plug. If you can retrieve the switch and screw it back in place on the rim of the wash tub opening, you may actually fix your problem. However, if the switch is broken, you need to replace it. Here's how:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

PS To answer your initial question about by-passing the switch, when you remove the console and disconnect the lid switch, you can take the connector that is MOUNTED ON THE WASHER TOP and remove it by pressing the release tabs and pulling it from under the tub rim. This is the connector plug that runs to the lid switch. Cut the plug from the switch, leaving a couple of inches of wire. Short the two black wires together, insulate the ends and cut the green wire flush. You now have made a by-pass plug. Simply plug it in to the connector that is RUNNING FROM THE TIMER and (voila!), you have a working washer. Keep in mind that now your washer will NOT stop when you open the lid. Use caution if you're going to operate your machine in this manner.

Now...if you're going to go this far, you should replace the switch. A new switch runs about $35 or less. Its an easy repair if you follow the directions. Keep the plug handy in the event that you run into this problem again and need to drain and spin the water out.

Good luck to you and let me know if you need any further assistance.

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

SOURCE: I also need the answer...

where is the lint trap located

Posted on Apr 07, 2008

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Washer Model #110.25862400

ck lid switch

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 90 Series Kenmore Washer Not going to spin cycle not draining water

I've had the same can purchase a replacement lid switch at your local appliance parts store for about $35. Fortunatly, the sales person at the appliance store had diagrams and provided instructions to replace the switch. I was able to finish the job and fix the switch in less than 1 hour. Good Luck.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kenmore 80 series washer leaves soap residue on clothes no matter

After speaking with someone with trouble shooting experience in these matters, I now believe the problem lies NOT with the washer but with a bad batch of laundry detergent which fails to dissolve properly in the water.  

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

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