Question about Philips 37PFL5332D 37 in. LCD Television
The tv is about 5 years old.
These blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit stage inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power led, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating, to many popular brand TVs and other devices. Viewing it in "Mosaic" will make surf easy.
Blinking codes details to many popular brand TVs are given. Surf the site with patience.
Blinks counts to Philips Brand TVs are not direct' like other brand TVs. The details about how to count the fault blinks to Philips TV models are given in detail.
Posted on Mar 31, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
After a lot of research, I have been able to locate the part which in my Philips 42PF7220A/37 Plasma TV appears to be the problem. I found out that heating and cooling certain parts of the board(s) allowed me to get beyond the 5 flashes error message and power up the TV. Through a process of elimination, I narrowed it down to the SSB Tuner board 3104-313-60376, This board is located behind the board covered with the shield. The specific component in question is the one I have circled in red on the attached photo. It is a crystal Xtal 27 mHZ 18Pf PART# 2422-543-01397. When I spray this component with cold air (freeeze) for a couple of seconds and then plug the power back in the TV will go through it's initialization cycle and turn on. It may turn off automatically, in which case, you just power it back on either manually or with the remote. It has now been 7 days, and it hasn't failed since. I have NOT replaced the part, if it fails again, that will be my next step. The part is about $ 10.00. The entire card can be purchased for about $ 100.-
I am reluctant to do anything further, because I'm not positive that the component is the problem or possibly the input to it. What I do understand is that a crystal can be excited (turned on) by either heat or cold. Perhaps it was stuck and spraying it with cold and heat released it. In any event, the TV is working for now. Hopefully it will stay this way.
If anyone can shed some light on why this may have happened, I would appreciate it.
Posted on Feb 28, 2008
SOURCE: philips 42pf7320a/37 dead
I do agree with the tech but if the green led don't come on and the 7-blink error code is still there. check the connector from the logic board that will be the board under the small signal baord. The small signal board have the AV input on it. Check the connector from the logic board to the power supply there should be one connectore btween those 2 boards. On the power supply side second pin from the left it will say Vs_On if the set has 0 volts the proble is the SSB or the logic board. how to determain that is to Use 2 Jumpers to short J8003 & J8004 on the left edge of the PSU (see figure below).
Use 1 Jumper to short CN2012 on the lower left part of the Logic PCB (this will supply a 100% White signal to the Display).
Plug in the AC to the PSU thru CN8001.
If PDP panel operates with White field screen then problem may be the SSB.
Posted on Aug 20, 2008
SOURCE: red blinking light
The red light blibking 6 times indicates that the power supply board has a defective or damaged area. I know this because i had the same problem...bought a damaged tv for parts and replaced the power supply board as the tv would not turn on...wokrs like a charm now.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
SOURCE: red light flashes
This is a well known and very common problem with all Philips plasma tvs 42 and 50 inch. The problem is they used under rated capacitors in the power supply. If you have electronics experience or a friend that is, remove the cover and look in the back for malformed or leaking capcitors. Replace them and see if that takes care of the problem. The caps only cost $2 or $3 each, so the cost to try this is pretty reasonable although you might have an added cost of buying beer for your electronics friend. If this does not fix your problem you are down to replacing boards that can be purchased around $300 ea.
I have found my set will come on "finally" after I get the back of the set warmed up and the bad caps finally charge up. Hope this is useful.
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
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