Question about Danby Dishwashers
The wash cycle takes longer and longer, with an increasing delay after I begin washing before the machine seems to start working - like 15 minutes of idling. The shortest wash cycle now takes about an hour with many long pauses.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: too long for a cycle
There are a lot of reasons could cause this issue. Could you provide us more details (if you have) which cycle's stage "takes" this time (filling water, washing process,draining etc... ) You answer will allow us to direct you the solution. Good luck !
Posted on Jun 27, 2006
SOURCE: wash cycle
momrules, it could vary depending on the water entering the dishwasher. On a heavy cycle normal time is about 85 minutes not including thermal holds ( pauses that heat the water). On a normal wash, 68 to 75 minutes not including thermal holds. If the water entering the dishwasher is not at least 120 to 140 degrees the dishwasher will pause in cycles to heat the water before advancing. So 120 minutes is not unrealistic. The heaters in the dishwasher are low wattage and will only heat the water approx. 2 degrees every 5 minutes. Catriver.
Posted on Nov 30, 2007
SOURCE: HOTPOINT aquarious extra
whare the option buttons are if you number them 1 to 5 from top to bottom if led 2 and 4 are flaching this is a time out draining and you will need to check your waste hose for twists traps and kinks also check Filter if there is a user servicable one on the applionce and check plumbing. This is a comman fault and if you get hotpoint out to it even if it is only a day old they will charge for the call out as it is classed as user error or faulty instalation this works on all WF,WD & WT modles with 5 option buttons on the left habnd side the applionces with digital displays will show F-05 insted but it all means the same
Posted on Feb 22, 2008
hi i had the same fault, the machine would go onto pause after a couple of seconds.. after nearly a full strip down of the machine and checking the obvious i found there was carbon dust on the pcb which was causing tracking (the circuit board at the top of the machine). The pcb looked like it was burnt out, but after a quick dust down to remove the carbon and refitted back into the machine it worked fine. HTH
Posted on Jul 11, 2008
The best I could find by scouring the internet was that it was a communication problem between the central control unit and the electronic control box. I was getting F1 codes that would stop the wash, then diagnostics showed F68 and F41 codes.
Sears wanted to charge $65 just to come out and diagnose it themselves, and these appliance sites wanted to charge their own fees to offer solutions. So I took a chance and ordered a new electronic control box ($146.00 + S&H) and installed it myself.
There are three long screws behind the control unit "hood", in the back-top of the washer, facing straight up and down. After unscrewing, I lifted up the hood up and forward, and there was a black box - the electronic control. First, you should check all the wires and make sure the connections are ok. If that still doesn't fix it, unplug all the wires, and take the electronic control out by unscrewing one 1/4" bolt. Put the new one in and re-wire everything (it shows what wires go where on the electronic control box - named by colors). No more error codes!
This washer is only a year and a half old as well, I guess it will pobably be my last Kenmore/Whirlp
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
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