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Gas leak between carburetor and gas tank

Model 0802022288-01 B&S engine. I've replaced the tank gasket four times and cannot eliminate the leak just below the pump cover. I cannot see any problem with the gas tank or carburetor surface. Can you provide any assistance to correct this problem. This is an old model and our local repair shop said this was a common problem with this carburetor.

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  • leoladzinske Apr 01, 2014

    Is there a special Briggs & Stratton gasket to correct this leak. Briggs andf Stratton technical people will not help a consumer and our local repair shop had no solution for the problem.

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Above solution is a good start. Also, you can purchase a sealant like Hylomar M that should work really well but if the mfg offers a gasket that will be the cheapeast way to start. Ask or research online for one that can withstand continuous contact with gasoline.

Posted on May 16, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My 20 HP Intek B&S

Sounds like the gas cap vent may be clogged. Try running it for a bit without the cap and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then replace the gas cap.

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

  • 100 Answers

SOURCE: carburetor flooding

Not familiar with this model, but this is exactly how the smaller ones behave when the carburetor diaphragm is shot. Larger engines usually have a float system with needle and seat in which case the problem is either a leaking needle/seat assembly or saturated float.

Posted on Apr 11, 2010

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There is a lot of fuel leaking out of the engine. Where do I start?


Without know the specific engine I would say the carburetor float float valve seat is leaking. Usually a carburetor cleaning and rebuild usually fix this it leaking out the carburetor.

Now with some engines the gas tanks are two piece plastic that glue together that leaking over time and need replacing.

Either way you first must determine where the leak is.

Jan 12, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

My carburetor is leaking gas and i've only used it about four times


sounds like the Needle valve is not stopping fuel flow into the Bowl OR the Flaot in the carburetor has a leak and has sunk .
Teh needle valve has a rubber tip on teh end to close off the flow of fuel. Todays Ethanol gas Ruins the rubber tip. Thank the government for mandating this horrid Carburetor killing gas.

Sep 19, 2012 | Mtd 22" Yard Machine Push Mower

1 Answer

I have a craftsman snow king snowthrower that will not start. The model is 247-884551. The gas was taking out of the snowthrower at the end of last season. Fresh gas was put in for the start of this...


Hello,
My name is Dane and I am going to help you solve your problem. When you say that the engine turned over, I am going to take that to mean that the engine fired and tried to start. If this was the case, you definitely have a problem with fuel getting to your cylinder. Normally this means that your carburetor and/or fuel tank- filter -lines are dirty and they should be cleaned. However you stated that the carburetor jets and ports are clean. If you didn't flush the fuel lines and tank when you cleaned the carburetor, then it could have gotten recontaminated again from the tank.
The only other way you could have these symptoms is if the intake gaskets going from your carburetor to your engine are failing. To test this, place about 2 tablespoons of fuel directly into the mouth of the carburetor, turn the choke on and try to start the engine. If it starts for a second or two and dies, you will have to clean your complete fuel system again from the tank to the carburetor. If it doesn't try to start replace your intake gaskets.

I hope I've helped. Thank you! Dane

Jan 04, 2011 | Craftsman Garden

1 Answer

I have a Snapper Yard Cruiser with a Kohler 15 hp OHV engine. Family no.SKH426U1G2RB; model cv15s; spec.no.41570. I bought this mower new and started having fuel troubles after about a year. My dealer...


I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. As soon as you shut the mower off, lift up the seat and turn the gas shut off to the closed position. Do this even if you are only going to be off the mower a few minutes. When you need the mower started again, open the gas shut off and start the mower.

Sep 12, 2010 | Omega Rear Drive Wheel Snapper Mowers

1 Answer

Old lawn mower will run for 15-20 seconds, then stops. Won't restart for 5-10 minutes, then runs and quits again. Over and over...help!


Hello:

It Sounds like the Carburetor may Require Cleaning or the Carburetor Solenoid Requires Replacing.
The Following is a Basic Instruction File I made for Cleaning the Fuel Systems on Small Engines. The Following Diagnostics Sound like a Lot of Time. The Time is Really in the Soaking Process. Cleaning the Tank is a 15 to 30 Minute Repair. Check the Gas Tank Cap and Make Sure it is Venting the Tank Properly. Is the Gas Tank Clean? Any Water, Dust Particles, Dirt or Rust Particles will Slowly Restrict the Gas Flow to the Carburetor During Operation. When the Engine Stalls/Quits, a Small amount of Gas Back Flows to the Tank and Flushes this Debris Back into the Tank. The Action of Starting the Engine Shakes the Tank and Mixes these Particles Back into the Gas and the Unit will Run for Anywhere from 45 Minutes to 2 Hours and then Stall. Also, if the Carburetors Internal Passages are Slightly Restricted, and a Slightly Extra Load is Added to the Normal Load of the Generator, the Restriction Causes the Engine to Stall Due to Lack of Proper Fuel to Compensate for the Extra Load. If you Use this Regularly, then I Suggest you Do a Complete Fuel System Clean. Remove the Tank, Tank Outlet Port Valve, Fuel Lines and Carburetor. Then Soak the Carburetor and Tank Outlet Port Valve Overnight in Cleaning Solution. While the Carburetor is Soaking, Clean the Tank. Leave a Small Amount of Gas in the Tank and then Use a Lint Free Rag and Put it in the Tank. Use a Long Screw Driver and Move the Rag Around Inside the Tank and Move any Particles Towards the Fill Hole. You can Use a Shop Vac to Vacuum the Particles Out of the Tank. Use Compressed Air and Blow the Tank Out as Best as Possible. Leave the Tank Open to Air Until the Carburetor is Assembled and Ready for Installation on the Engine. Check the Fuel Lines and make Sure they are Not Rotten and Breaking Apart on the Inside. Replace them if Required. Replace the Fuel Filter if Required. Using a Breakdown of the Carburetor at the Site I Provided, Most People can Disassemble and Assemble the Carburetor (and other Engine Components) with Little to No Problems. The Cost of the Cleaning Solution I Use is $30.00us @ Gallon (I Use Gunk). The Gallon Can Comes with a Tray for Small Parts and the Carburetor Fits Nicely. Most Times a Carburetor can be Soaked and Cleaned and with the Float, Needle Valve and Other Carburetor Components being Soaked in the Cleaner with the Carburetor Body; there are No Parts to Replace on this Carburetor. If you Soak and Clean this Carburetor and the Float Needle Valve Still Does Not Stop the Gas Flow Properly, then Purchase a Needle and Seat Kit and Replace it. The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port (if the Model does Not have a Fuel Pump). If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve and Needle Valve Seat if Applicable. This is a Flat O-Ring Located in the Inlet Port the Float Needle Rests in. Use a Strong Wire with a Slight Bend to Remove the Old Seat. Sometimes a Small Pocket Screw Driver can be Use Also. The New Seat will have a Slightly Beveled Side and a Flat Side. The Flat Side goes Towards the Carburetor Body when Inserted into the Inlet Port. Spray the Seat with Spray Lubricant to make Installation Easier. The End of a Drill Bit that is Slightly Small than the Seat can be Use as an Insertion Tool. Wear Gloves or Use a Rag when Handling the Sharpened End of the Drill Bit. Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. Even the O-Ring Around the Bowl can be Reused if it is Not Broken. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if Applicable). The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle. Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.*** (Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***. ****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body. If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body. Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws: ****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.**** If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine. Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test. If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle. By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting. This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components. If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear. http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm 2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.


Good Luck


Respectfully


jbridger (John)


Sep 13, 2009 | Garden

2 Answers

Have a 1984 300zx, non-turbo two seater. 124K


its running very RICH !!!! TOO MUCH GAS!
check the air fuel mix & the air filter!
it needs a good tune up!
& get the injectors either cleaned or replaced
the fuel injectors from the factory are renound for leaking & setting fire to this model!
you can buy aftermrket injectors that eliminate the this

Jul 17, 2009 | 1984 Nissan 300ZX

2 Answers

I have a ryobi 790r weedeater and i need the gas tank off . How do I do this?


On the 790R you will have to remove the carburetor and the four screws of the plastic housing behind it. The gas tank will then slip out.You will need to replace both the housing and carburetor gaskets.

Hope this is of some help, Lamar

Jun 20, 2009 | Ryobi 30 Cubic Centimeter Curved Shaft Gas...

1 Answer

My tractor stalls like it is starved for gas although the gas tank is full. I,ve changed the fuel filter and the gas cap. I've cleaned out the gas tank, gas lines, and the carburetor bowl. The problem...


I had a similar problem with a sears tractor. close to the carbarator is a rectangle box with a rubber hose going to the engine block - remove the hose and spray carb cleaner in the hose wait a few mins and try again - its a vacuum for the carb

Jun 04, 2009 | Craftsman 17.5 hp 42 in. Deck Lawn Tractor...

3 Answers

Hi my craftsman lawnmower,model #944360480 is leaking gas through the air filter,muffler and I think the engine.I change the inlet needle seat,clip, also the float.Now it leaks gas in the same places after...


Hello:

If you Did Not Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Cleaner, then
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
>>The Following is an Instruction File I Made for the Gas Contamination of the Crankcase Oil. Any Input Concerning the File is Appreciated.
>>Depending on the Engine Model, Usually the Gas in the Crankcase Oil or White/Blue Smoke is Caused by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve Not Seating Properly and Allowing the Gas to Flood the Carburetor and Engine. Then the Gas Seeps by the Rings and Enters the Crankcase and Contaminates the Crankcase Oil.
>The Smoking is Caused Not Only by the Flooded Crankcase but can be Caused by 1 of the Following; a Bad Diaphragm in the Fuel Pump, a Blown Head Gasket between the Cylinder and Push Tube Galley, the Crankcase Vent Stuck/Frozen/Broken or the Carburetor Flooding the Engine.
>>1- Clean the Carburetor and Replace the Float Needle Valve (and Seat if this Model has One). A- **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.**
>>If the Carburetor Float Needle is Good, then; 2- Block the Outlet Port and Pull a Vacuum on the Fuel Pump. If it Holds Vacuum, then it is Good. If Not, then the Diaphragm is Busted and the Pump Requires Replacing. If the Fuel Pump is Good, then Check the Crankcase Oil for Gas Contamination.
>>If the Crankcase Oil is Contaminated, then Drain and Refill the Crankcase Oil with Fresh Oil.
3- **If the Mower has a Manual Gas Shut Off Valve: Check the Manual Cut Off Valve and Make Sure it is Cutting Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor. A- If Not Stopping the Gas Flow, then Replace the Valve. B- If the Mower Does Not have a Manual Cut Off Valve: Install a Manual Cut Off Valve and Turn Off the Gas Flow when the Engine is Not in Use. These Carburetor Styles Tend to Allow Gas to Seep by the Rubber Tipped Needle Kit or the 2 Pc O-Ring Needle Kit. A I Believe I Said Before, I have Seen a Lot of these Problems and this is the Way I have Found to be Sure the Crankcase Oil Does Not become Contaminated with Gas Again.**
>>4- If the Valve is Good or has Been Installed, then Remove the Cylinder Head. On the OHV Engines the Head gasket will Blow Between the Cylinder and the Push Tube Galley. This Allow Oil to be Sucked Into the Cylinder from the Crankcase and the Extra Oil is Just Enough to Cause the White Smoke.
>>5- Check the Crankcase Breather and Make Sure it is Clean and Operating Properly.
>>6- If the Crankcase Breather Sticks, then Oil is Pulled from the Crankcase into the Carburetor Throat and this Causes the White Smoke.
>>7- If the Crankcase Oil is Good, then Check the Gas Tank Cap and Ensure it is Venting the Tank. If the Gas Cap is Not Venting the Tank, then Pressure Builds in the Tank and the Pressure Pushes Gas by the Carburetor Float Needle Valve and Floods the Engine and Crankcase Oil.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

May 15, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

05 mercury sable check engine po174


You has a vacuum leak on the engine.

In order to troubleshoot this, you must start with a clean engine wipe down.


The major offender parts are


air intake gasket on the manifold

air tube after the mass air flow sensor

rubber seal under idle air control IAC motor

===

Warm up the engine for 15-20 minutes (LEAVE THE engine at idle) then spray a little Barmen carburetor clear on the potential air leak location (ONE AT A TIME) and listen for a surge in rpm.

If the engine speed go higher that's mean the carburetor clean (ADDITIONAL FUEL) got into your engine and that's the gasket you need to change.

There may be multiple leaky spots so take your time and check all rubber gaskets,sensor and hose that are lead into the intake manifold.

When you finish fill up with one tank of Chervon to clean out the injectors.

Please post more information after your inspection.

Apr 12, 2009 | 2005 Mercury Sable

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