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Whirlpool wrid41t Fridge has stopped cooling and Freezing. The light works and there is power to the fridge but no cooling

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fridge stopped cooling

We had the same problem today and it was because I had not closed the freezer completely a week ago and the evaporator coil in freezer was completely iced up. A blow dryer defrosted the coil quickly. It is best to empty the freezer first and shut fridge off. You need to defrost the coil enough so air will flow through the coil. To cool the fridge cold air is drawn from this coil by an evaporator fan located above this coil behind the removable cover at rear of freezer. IF you remove this cover and this fan is turning check for ice on coil. That is probably the problem. Evap. fan is about $100 - ouch. The other thing you can check is the fridge damper control at top rear of fridge. This failed on us 13 months after we bought fridge so no warrenty. Part was $44 plus service of $100. Now I fix this fridge myself. If you remove damper cover you can cycle thermostat and see it open and close. If it is not opening replace it. You can probably find the part cheaper that $44 at an apliance parts store.

Posted on May 19, 2007

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  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: No light in fridge compartment, Not freezing. Light in freezer co

Your door switch is bad.  When doors are opened, the fan stops.  No cooling.  When it closes, fan starts.  Bulb is just an indicator of no power to unit...probably burned out contact in switch.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: frige light on not cooling,freezer fan working but not freezing

Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Posted on May 27, 2009

deanot26508
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: fridge is not cooling or freezing,a new timer was put in but stil

Try cleaning the coils under the unit, if you have pets, fur and dust builds up on the coils and the unit will appear to run all the time but will not cool.
Cleaning of the coils should happen at least twice a year, its a common thing to over look by everyone.
Hope this is all it is.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: whirlpool gs6shexns00 fridge

I had a very similar problem- flickering light bulbs, shorting-out noises, electronic temperature displays not working. I had to replace a small circuit board (the "Electronic Control Board") accessed from the rear of the fridge. A relatively easy do-it-yourself job.

Refer to this link at PartSelect.com:
http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=2180152&SourceCode=1

Posted on Feb 23, 2010

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No light in fridge compartment, Not freezing. Light in freezer co


Your door switch is bad.  When doors are opened, the fan stops.  No cooling.  When it closes, fan starts.  Bulb is just an indicator of no power to unit...probably burned out contact in switch.

Nov 12, 2008 | Refrigerators

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