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WHY DO i get 240 VOLTS ON MY hHSIlead that blows the HSI ON MY lx


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You have to have a 240 volt HSI electrode. If you have a 24v, or 110v HSI you will have problems. Check out the catalogue at System Control Engineering to see what I mean.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

  • blender719 Jul 18, 2009

    You have to have a 240 volt HSI electrode. If you have a 24v, or 110v HSI you will have problems.
    Check out the catalogue at System Control Engineering to see what I mean.



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Why does the relay and control board keeps clicking the igniter doesn't come on, and furnance doesn't work?

It should only do that a few times then lock out necessitating reset by cycling the power at the furnace switch or at the t-stat. More than likely your hot surface ignitor is defective. Sequence should be something like this: Call for heat, combustion air fan initiates and blows for 30 seconds during a 'pre-purge' condition, then a relay clicks to energize the hot surface ignitor. If it does not ignite the flame within a few seconds, usually around 5 or 6 seconds, the ignitor relay clicks again and drops it out.

The flame sensing rod has to see flame to rectify the ground signal to the circuit board very quickly or else raw gas would continue to dump into the heat chamber. After the HSI relay drops out on flame failure the combustion air fan continues to run for a post purge cycle to purge the heat exchanger of any unburnt fuel before the sequence is initiated again.

Unplug the ignitor molex plug. It'll be within a few inches of the HSI itself. Insert a voltage test meter set to read 120 volts into the molex plug going TO the ignitor. Re-establish the call for heat, wait for a cycle of the relay clicks and steadily watch the meter. If the ignitor is bad, you should see 120 volts at the connection you are plugged in to AFTER the 30 second pre-purge. Watch closely, you may only have a 6 second window to see it because it will drop it out on flame failure.

Of course there are other issues that could be possible, but this is the most likely. If you do determine the ignitor is bad and you obtain a replacement DO NOT TOUCH the portion of the ignitor that glows (to ignite the gas) during assembly !!!! The oil from your skin will shorten the life expectancy TREMENDOUSLY.

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Oven will not heat up

You need to test the voltage at the wires hooked up to the back side of the bake element. Each bake element wire to ground should be 120, when turned oven turned on, and 240 across the 2 of them.

If you have only 120 and no 240, then you want to UNPLUG (do not just turn off the oven control) the range. Then disconnect the wires from the bake element, and keep them away from metal. Then plug range back in (and being careful) and test each wire again between it and ground (any of the metal on the range will work). Now you will know which wire is not on. Then trace that particular wire back.

One wire will go back to the oven control switch that has the thermostat attached to it, and that is where maybe your problem lies. If they burn out, sometimes you can actually see a discolored area on the plastic oven control and this signifies that it burned up inside.if otherwise,
If the hot surface glow ignitor (HSI) does not glow and all control selections and settings on the front control panel are set correctly, chances are the HSI is burned out.

Replacing the HSI part is likely to solve the problem. A very common part that burns out or becomes weak needing replacement.

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What is the output voltage supposed to be going to the hot surface ignitor ? mod# GSU080-4 I replaced one(appeared to be bad),the unit fired one time and then nothing.After further checking,I found I only...

Hello,Your HSI power input is 110v.If you set your meter to conuinty(ohms) setting you should get any reading(unplug it) to see it's good.NEVER touch the element ever as fingerprints will shorten the life of the ignitor.

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The fan will blow but not in heat mode. The gas heater sounds like it wants to work but there is no heat.

Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. The problem is probably with the ignition. Check the pilot if its a standing pilot or the hot surface ignitor if it has a HSI ignition If you ohm the hotsurface ignitor and it doesn't show resistance the HSI is shot. If its a standing pilot try lighting the pilot if it lites and doesn't stay lit then the thermocouple could be bad its the rod that sits in the pilot flame easily replaced with a universal replacement that can be found at most hardware stores.

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I think you could be buying you own HSI part and replace yourself. But I would suspect that the technicians are not being careful when the install the new ones, or someone is getting their hands on them.
But even at that, they are problematic. I am not sure if there are different grades of HSI's either, so that may be the problem too.
They are not that hard to replace. You just need to be sure that it is the as being the cause of the failure.

I would order new ones on the Net, and replace. Just be sure not to touch the HSI, PERIOD. Use only the wrapping that the HSI comes in to hold it, and only remove when all possibility of touching it has gone.

Let me know if you have any more questions. I'll be happy to reply. I somehwat got out of the business as HSI's were coming in, but I do know the right questions to ask, and how to figure out what's happening.

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Pilot light is on but burner will not come on

You may need to replace the ignighter!...easy fix! or what it really sounds like is your thermastat

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Oven wont heat, shuts down in few seconds

Sseem issue with the thermostatic.

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