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Often Bicycle tires lose air slowly. It's just their nature. Because they don't hold a lot of volume of air and because that air seeps out over a relatively short period of time (a week for a road bike tire and about two weeks for a MTB knobby), there's a risk if you just ride without checking the tire pressure. If you bike on soft tires and you hit a pothole, rock or other obstacle, it's possible to damage or ruin, the tire, tube and worst of all, the rim. A too-soft tire also means that you're working a lot harder and on a mountain bike, it can make for a wobbly, hard-to-handle ride. So, be smart and check your tire pressure regularly: every week during the season for mountain bikes and before every ride for roadsters.
I too searched the internet. I have Calloway Crosstrax push cart. I put too much air in front tires and it blew. Be sure to put only 28psi of pressure in that front tire. These tubes cost at least $10. I Finally figured it out how to take this darn wheel off to replace tube. After 2 hours and revisiting after having a beer it came to me. Remove the two screws on each side of the wheel. Unloosen hex screw at bottom of fork. You don't have to remove the hex screw and not sure if it has to be unloosened. The key is to get pair of grip plyers and pull those black end caps out. A little on each side at a time. The tire assembly comes right out. Don't forget to release brake from closed position. Hope this helps.
The appropriate mountain bike tire pressure can vary significantly between rider to rider and tire setup to tire setup. Trail conditions and the type of terrain can also greatly effect what tire pressure you should run. The real trick is to find out exactly what mountain bike tire pressure works best for you and your setup under normal conditions. You can then learn to adjust this pressure for different trails and terrain as needed.
Here's the best way I have found to get to the right pressure for your setup:
Find a good reliable pressure gauge or a pump with a pressure gauge. Use this same gauge or pump the whole time you are making adjustments. Gauges are notoriously inaccurate so if you switch around it will make things much more difficult.
Start with a higher pressure somewhere around 40-50 psi (3-3.5 bar)for for 2.2-2.3 inch tires. For tubeless systems, start much lower, 30 to 40 psi. The heavier you are or the smaller your tires, the higher pressure you should start with. Ride with this pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires hook up in corners and on loose dirt.
Now, drop the pressure by 5 psi (0.35 bar) in each tire. Once again get a feel for how this new setup rides and compare it to the previous setting. You should feel some improvement in tire hookup with the ground and a little more stability. If you don't notice any difference drop the pressure by another 5 psi (0.35 bar).
What you want to find is the lowest pressure you can ride without sacrificing pinch flat resistance. You get a pinch flat when your tire rolls over an object and compresses to the point where the tire and tube literally get pinched between the object and the rim of the wheel. This commonly results in a snake bite or double puncture in the tube.
Continue to reduce tire pressure by 3-5 psi (0.1-0.3 bar) until you feel the tires are hooking up well. If you go too far, you will start getting pinch flats, so stop dropping pressure in your tires as soon as you feel you have good control or you no longer notice any improvement between pressure drops.
If you start feeling your rims contact objects or if you start getting pinch flats, raise the pressure back up in small intervals.
In tubeless systems, since you don't have to worry about pinch flats so much, you can run much lower pressures and some occasional rim contact is OK, but if you start denting your rims, burping air out along the bead, or if you feel the tire roll under the rim during hard cornering, you have gone too low.
There is another balance you play with tire pressure. Lower pressure does increase rolling resistance. However, some argue, the increased control and climbing traction makes up for the extra effort needed to compensate for the extra rolling resistance. I lean toward running nearly as low pressure as you can get away with. Cross country racers may decide to sacrifice a little control for a little better efficiency.
I am trying to replace the lower bag holder with the new non bungie type. They didn't send instructions. Do I have to drill new holes in the frame to make this assembly work? The top one was a straight replacement.
hello. It is supposed to snap in. Try a little WD-40 or even pam cooking spray on the yoke to lube it. If it still will not work properly take it to your golf course pro shop as they work with these items daily and will show you exactly the best way to proceed.
Also note that it is very important to only push this cart and never pull it as doing so will void the warranty. Joe