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If you have the gear cases apart and the bevel gear exposed then you just push the planetary shaft up through the middle of the bevel gear. You will see that the shaft is driven by the gear via a loose fitting pin through the shaft. Pull the pin out (with fingers) and then the bevel gear will lift up off the shaft without the need to fully remove the shaft. Note the fibre spacer/thrust washer under the bevel gear between the bottom case and gear, don't lose it.
Patricia, I am not sure which model you have old or new. I have the old one built in the 30's. I had to replace the shear pin and the carbon brushes for the motor. I took the bottom off which has a ball bearing resting loosely in a cavity in the bottom plate. Don't lose it. Now the brushes I found at an ace hardware. Take the old ones to compare. I think there was a bracket holding the brushes and rotor in. Once the rotor was out you could get the brushes out. Putting the brushes in required figuring out how to keep the brushes retracted. I used a piece of paper and used it hold them back while sliding in the rotor. Once in pull the paper out.
Now the shear pin needs to be in to prevent damage to the grinder in case what you are grinding has something too hard to grind like a small rock, I think if you push up on the rotor when the bottom plate is off or pulling up on the shaft it might give enough clearance to put the shear pin in. It sits very close to the bottom of the shaft so it can be fun trying to line it up. I used needle nose pliers to hold the pin just right while pulling up on the shaft. I bought the shear pin off of ebay
Presuming all looks OK near pivot & lock mechinism? can you see the locking hook in rear of mixer head at the hinge area directly behind lock lever, and is it nested in the slot on the base, or is it jamming up outside the stand and scratching it up? There is a flat-head height adjust screw to control clearance between spatula and bottom of bowl visible from head-back position- leave it alone. There is a headless set screw visible when mixer is upside down to hold the pivot pin secure. This must be loostened with long-shaft flat screwdriver to remove the pivot pin for head removal if necessary ---avoid removing the pin if possible.
Is the hinge stuck with film of sticky sugar, milk-glue residue, ot the like? That is most common cause, distant second is the lock mechinism alignment (very rare)
Its important to keep head from wobbling side-to-side in use, so dont file or sand anything Can telephone 609 213 2222 if necessary no charge for my talk.
To install blade into saw: 1. Loosen set screw. 2. Insert blade shank from the front between the reciprocating shaft and the blade clamp. Locate hole in blade over pin on reciprocating shaft. 3. Tighten set screw. If the blade should break off and the shank does not come out of the clamp, be sure the set screw is loose and eject the shank with a nail or pointed object.
Loosen needle screw & insert needle with shank's flat side facing front of machine. Push needle in all the way, then tighten screw to hold needle in place.
Install a fully wound bobbin by loosening bobbin nut & placing bobbin on top. Re-attach bobbin nut & tighten. If standard thread spool will be used, then attach spool pin to bobbin shaft & place thread spool onto shaft. Attach white spool cap on end of thread spool, then tighten. Bobbin/spool should unwind facing forward toward needle.
Bring end of thread through thread guides & over tension control. Pass end of thread through needle eye, from back to front, & pull it out about two inches.
A spring pushes pressor foot onto fabric that is being sewn, so lift pressor foot & place fabric underneath.
Turn large handwheel on side of machine (handwheel can be turned in either direction) to raise needle arm to its highest position.
Holding the Handy Stitch in place with your right hand, press on power switch & begin sewing. Guide fabric (being sewn) with your left hand.
To end this sewing session, turn off power. Turn handwheel to raise needle to its highest position. Carefully pull out about three inches of thread through needle & snip, then lift pressor foot to remove fabric. Turn fabric over & loop needle threader through last stitch. Place end of thread from underside through eye of needle threader, & pull to loop through. Pull to tighten and snip end of thread.
The pinion on front of motor is slipping on motor shaft. It seems to be just a press fit. Seems like a flaw in design. I had same problem. I took my dw056 apart and took pinion off motor and pressed groves into motor shaft with side cutter pliers. then pounded pinion back onto motor shaft. We will see how long this lasts the motor shaft is a softer metal. I feel the motor shaft should be hardened steel like the pinion and have a shear pin or some sort of spline to attach to pinion. Would like Dewalt to offer fix for this as I only used dw056 a couple of times before I had problem.
The pinion on front of motor is slipping on motor shaft. It seems to be just a press fit. Seems like a flaw in design. I had same problem. I took the dw056 apart and took pinion off motor and pressed groves into motor shaft with side cutter pliers. then pounded pinion back onto motor shaft. We will see how long this lasts the motor shaft is a softer metal. I feel the motor shaft should be hardened steel like the pinion and have a shear pin or some sort of spline to attach to pinion. Would like Dewalt to offer fix for this as I only used dw056 a couple of times before I had problem.
The shaft has probably siezed at the bottom near the blade. The seal can fail and let liquid inside the shaft and gunge it up. Take the orange handle apart, then unscrew the four steel pins, then pull out the motor. From the blade end, take the screw from the blade and prize it off. Then pull the shaft out from the top and clean it. It may be stuck - push a blunt nail or similar in the bottom to free it. Then reassemble carefully