Question about First Act Music
A guy gave me some cash, a ME301 electric guitar made by First Act and a little 10W Dinosaur amplifier for some RC airplane equipment I wanted to sell. I was doing a setup on the guitar (which was a mess) and discovered a crack right up by the neck pocket that is about 4-5 inches long on one side and 3/4 inch on the other side. Once I did a setup with some new strings and all, I was amazed at how well it played for a cheap guitar. No matter if I keep it, or sell it, I need to address that crack. A good crack repair would accomplish 2 things. strengthen that part of the guitar, and make the crack invisible. I could drop in 2 wood screws (countersunk) putty in the screw heads and sand down. But how do I match the paint? it's black. What type of paint should I use etc. etc.
Frankly, given the value of a first act guitar, I wouldn't br investing the time and effort into it.,
That said, I wouldn't try to fadeThe proper paint will be available from Stewart MacDonald guitar parts, in matching paint, but would repaint the entire guitar.
Posted on Mar 22, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sometimes the truss rod (nut you are referring to) will do the trick. The truss rod runs under the fingerboard and allows you to give the neck relief or tension. Some truss rods are dual action but I'm guessing yours is designed simply to give basic relief of the neck. I would make sure the truss rod is adjusted properly before sanding down the saddle. If you sight down the neck you should be able to see the relief in the neck - just use the string as your straight-edge. Most guitars need a slight amount of relief but higher-end guitars can be almost straight (better fretwork.) Once the neck has been adjusted correctly you can move forward with the setup.
Make sure the nut is also the proper height. If the nut is too low (1mm height between bottom of string and first fret) you should get it replaced by someone capable of doing such a thing. If the nut height is okay I would suggest moving forward cautiously by sanding the bottom of the saddle. Make sure this is done patiently and carefully as it can drastically change the sound and playability of the guitar. Hardly any material needs to be taken off to lower the action just a little. Error on the side of not-enough than too much. Make sure the bottom of the saddle remains flat! If the bottom isn't flat the guitar can sound horrible and if there is an undersaddle pickup it might not pick up evenly. The easiest way to do so is to tape some sandpaper rough side up on a flat surface (just don't pick something like mom's heirloom or something important in case it gets scratched.
If you'd like more detail check out http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/Repairs2.htm
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
SOURCE: Guitar strings on a mandolin.
By now you may have solved this problem, but maybe this information is still helpful:
What you are essentially recreating is a tenor guitar. Many companies make tenor guitar strings. I would suggest D'Addario J66 80/20 Bronze Tenor Guitar Strings (10-32). I've done this a few times and it is quite fun and makes for an interesting travel guitar.
Have a blast!
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
The "handle type thing" is a Tremolo or, more often referred to as a "whammy" bar. The thing at the base of the strings is called a bridge. Looking at the strings, there should be a hole to the right of the smallest string. If your "handle" is threaded, stick the threaded end into the hole and rotate in a clockwise motion. Once is hits the bottom of the threads, back it off one turn and gravity will let it hang out of the way while you play. If there are no threads, it will slip in and you will feel a "click" when it's in the proper position.
On the back of the guitar, there is a cover plate that covers the cavity where the springs are located that make the "whammy bar" work. The springs hold tension on the bridge so you can tune it and play normally, but let the "whammy bar" stretch or release tension on the strings when you push or pull it. If you already have springs inside the cavity, the extra spring you have will let you add more tension to the bridge, but you probably won't need it. If there are no springs already installed, you can install your "extra" spring in there to give you the flex and spring for the "bar-handle" to work properly.
To install a spring, loosen or remove your guitar strings, open the cover on the back, and install the spring over the hooks on the bridge and the hook on a metal bar on the other end of the cavity. Replace the cover, insert your "handle", and wiggle-away.
The allen wrenches are most likely for adjustment of the moveable pieces that support the strings on the bridge. The bridge has adjustments for up and down, and forward and back to adjust the height and distance where the string is supported. Don't adjust the bridge supports unless you loosen the strings. It is highly recommended that you don't make any adjustments yourself unless you are familiar with the mechanism. You can adjust your guitar where it's impossible to keep in tune if the adjustments are not perfect. There are usually guitar repair shops close by and offer "set-up" services to get your instrument adjusted properly. It's well worth the money to have it done right, and the service people with often teach you many things that will help keep your instrument playing well.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
This sometimes happens on older set neck guitars. Chances are its due to the guitar being exposed to fast changing temperatures or humidity. Since the paint is strictly cosmetic, and no one will see it, I'd leave it alone. If it was an American PRS it may be different but I would not worry about it, just be careful when taking the guitar out in cold and hot weather...and let the case adjust with the guitar in it for about 15 minutes before taking it out.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
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