I was told I need to buy CALC, a white cleaning powder in a small box, recommended by the engineer - i was using Calgon tablets in the mistaken belief that I was cleaning the element etc. inside my washer/dryer but it was absolutely futile.
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The most common problem with snow blowers/throwers is carburetor related. Because they often get little use and sit untouched for months, the gas will degrade and cause restrictions inside the carburetor. The gas we pump into our cars should not be used in small engines. Especially those that sit for long periods of time. This gas is called oxygenated fuel. It oxidizes. This causes rust on steel and green powder on copper and brass and white powder on aluminum. These metals are common in carburetors. When this occurs the resulting debris can clog up small orifices in the carburetor and prevent proper fuel flow and cause a 'no start' condition in the fall. There are products on the market that are supposed to clean this debris out when added to the fuel. I personally have not tried any of these, but it is a cheap fix if it works. The alternative is to remove the carburetor, disassemble and soak over night in carb cleaner. The key is to use non-oxygenated fuel and a fuel stabilizer added to the gas can. Follow the stabilizer instructions for storage. I recommend running the engine dry at the end of the season.
Saturate an old cloth with white vinegar. Alternatively, you might use petroleum jelly on the cloth to remove the mold.Pull the gasket out gently with your hands to reveal the mold and mildew buildup inside the folds of the gasket.Wipe the mold away from the gasket with the cloth. Continue working to wipe away all mold from the folds of the rubber gasket.Dry the folds of the gasket with a dry cloth when you finish removing the mold.Repeat this procedure at least once per month to prevent mold and mildew from forming. If you notice mold occurring more frequently, clean it off when you see it.
Tips for Preventing Mold & Smelly Problems:
Always leave the door and dispenser unit slightly ajar after the laundry is done. Front-load washers and the detergent/softener dispenser drawer must dry out.
Never leave a wet washload in the washer overnight; remove it when the washing cycle is complete and leave the door open.
After a load is done, always rotate the drum with your hand to see and remove all items. Some could be sticking to top or sides of the washer drum.
Use softener sheets in the dryer instead of liquid softeners in the washer.
Liquid detergents may leave less residue than powdered formulas which may not dissolve properly.
Use less than the recommended detergent level for your load. Too much detergent can cause a residue build up. Experiment until you find a minimum measurement that delivers a clean wash. This is also a money saver.
Occasionally wash some loads such as whites, linen and towels in warm or hot water to help flush out wash residue.
Always clean your washer as per your product manual. High efficiency front-load models have a cleaning cycle and it's imperative that you periodically run this cycle as directed.
Check the gasket just inside the door opening and remove any visible debris. You can also wipe it to speed the drying process.
Always use HE detergents with high efficiency front-load washers. Specially marked HE laundry detergent is low sudsing and is recommended for these low-water washers.
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The long white piece is a water filter. It filters calc (lime) out of the water. It should fit in the water container at the back. Just click it in.
The cleaning pills are not for de-scaling. You should run the cleaning program. To do this open the small lid at the top of the machine, press the P-button until the screen changes (a few seconds). Turn the dial until service is in the screen push the dial and turn until cleaning appears. Push the dial button again.The pill should be put in the coffee powder entrance. If you start the cleaning program it will state when you should do that.
I don't know how you are administering the soap powder to the machine..but for one, its recommended that you use detergent thats made exclusively for the front loader washer, usually says "he" on the front of the LIQUID detergent, they recommend that you use liquid detergent on top of that, BUT if you have to use regular powder detergent it must be put inside the tub and NOT the pull out detergent drawer. The reason why they want you to use liquid is because the powder detergent is not concentrated and when you use it, it lathers up alot and its harder for the front loader machine to clean out the clothes and I was told that they (sales agents) have heard of soap suds and bubble floods coming from the machine due to either using the powder detergent or using too much. Hope that this helps!!
- remove all cartridges
- clean all leaked powder on the cartrtidges and inside the 4 cartridge compartiments with a vacuum cleaner
(don't touch the powdered roll on the cartridge!)
- deep inside the printer you will see a glass-strip. You have to clean this strip carefully. Because of powder, that has leaked from the cartridges, the laser-beam is dimmed. This causes the white streak you mentioned!
Hello shid9 This is an easy fix. To decalcify your unit you need to make a water/vinegar solution. 2 parts water and 1 part vinegar. You might need to run two pots of the solution through if the first one is very cloudy. When done with that, rinse with 1 pot of fresh water. This should help remedy your calc problem. I hope this is helpful for you. Happy brewing! NormanZ
The best he soap I have seen yet is all, he is high effieciency low suds soap. The rule of thumb for liquid he soap is 2 Tbl for every 1 Tbl of softener. Powder can be used but is not good on pumps and build up in tubs. If you have a water softener you can use 25% less soap. Still with powder you need about a 1/4 cup per load to equal a 2 Tbl liquid variety. Suds damage pump impellers, seals and hoses from expansion and that is it on the reason "why to use he".
From another consumer with the same problem: The mildew smell started about a month after we got it and got increasingly worse! Had a service tech out who replaced the gasket, but he left me a product called WHIRLOUT. It is made for hot tubs and spas and whirlpool tubs. You can get it at a pool supply or Home Depot or Lowe's. It is made to remove the soap scum buildup that provides a growing environment for the bacteria, which produces the smell. You add about a cup to the normal wash cycle. Do not put in the dispenser, add when the water is in the tub. I ran it through twice the first time. Then about once a month to keep it clean. Another thing he told me, don't use dryer sheets in the dryer because they will eventually cause a film to build up on the sensors that tell you when the clothes are dry. I've switched to Downey fabric softener in the washer. He also told me NOT to use a really thick fabric softener because it will not go easily through the dispenser. There is a drain hose by the filter on the washer - pull it out first and drain the left over water into a bowl or pitcher before you clean the filter. This will prevent the mess when cleaning the filter!!! LG never told me this, the same technician showed me this, too!
, make surer your using an HE detergent, Liquid better then powder. . they just placed a product on the market in the last few months . AFFRESH tabs, found at major appliance chains, specifically designed for cleaning out theese machines.
is she using powdered soap? if so shes been using too much. shell need to clean out the washer. a bottle of white vinager in a hot water wash with no clothes will clean it out. tell her to cut back on the soap. the box will say use a whole scoop. but thats just to get you to buy more soap. you only need half of that