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You mention the knob on the shifter is loose. Do you remember if the knob has always been loose or is this recent? I ask because I thought there was a button to push or a lever to lift to move the shifter into or out of R and P. So that you might not accidentally push the shifter into either of those settings and possibly damage the mechanism. If there is a lever or button, it might be that the button or lever doesn't fully disengage when you press it BECAUSE the knob on the shifter is loose. You might need to tighten the knob. Might need hex keys / Allen keys or small screwdrivers to tighten the knob. good luck.
Hi Anonymous, the only levers I can think of on the left side of the bike are the clutch lever in front of the left handle bar grip, the toe shifter for up shifting or down shifting located just above the drivers left foot board in the front, and the heel shifter for upshifting only located in the rear. Good luck
I'm assuming you have levers on your shifter. If so, typically, the problem is the screw on the side has come loose allowing the lever to move. Tighten the screw a little see if it resolves your problem. If not snug it up some more. The tension of the screw creates the friction to keep the lever from moving.
Do the brake light work? No brake lights and it won't shift out of park. Check your fuses and check for loose wires. Check your brake light switch. If that has failed, you won't be able to get out of park. The other one if the shift lock solenoid which is in the shifter assembly. The brake shift interlock switch prevents the car being shifted from park unless the brake pedal is depressed. Try to apply power/ground to the proper wires & see if it will activate.. If it does, then the problem is between the brake light switch & that solenoid. Could be the wires or the switch.Make sure the shifter cable is still held down in place at the shifter assembly & under the hood. It is the interlock switch that you hear/feel clicking.It is for the prior generation but may still apply.
Good Luck and hopefully you soon will be on the road again...;-)
It could be your shifter pawl in the transmission. But, check for any binding in the long linkage between the shifter and transmission. Disconnect the long connector link at the shifter in the front and check for free movement of the connector and the shifter itself. If that moves freely, then I'd suspect the shifter pawl. You'll see the short lever that connects to the shifter pawl shaft. Make sure that it's tight and not loose on the shaft. If it's loose, the splines are probably worn in the lever and on the shaft as well. Move the lever like it would move to shift to a gear. You should feel spring tension against the movement and it should return to "center" when you let go. If not, the shifter pawl return spring is broken. Usually when this happens, all you have is first and second gear.
check your brake light switch. If it is loose or broken the shifter interlock will not disengage; as the power to the solenoid goes through the brake light switch. Otherwise it is a problem with the the brake light fuse, switch or shifter lock solenoid.
Overriding the system:
On the riight side of the shift lever. There is a small round plastic cover. (The left side of the shift lever is P, the right side of the shift lever is a small round plastic cover about half inch.) Pop out the plastic cover, push the lever on the handle and insert a long philips screwdriver in it. It should shift now even if the engine is off. ( You do not need to turn the screwdriver, just insert it)
You are right about the shift pattern. Reverse is hard left and up.If your gears are locked up, you'll probably have to remove the side cover and reset the shift levers to their neutral position and then slide gears around to put it back on. With it back on the shift levers should point up toward the car floor. 3-4 is the shift lever closest to the engine. 1-2 is the middle one and reverse is the one closest to the back of the tranny. Check all your swivel points for looseness. If there is any play then you'll have to bush it out or you'll have trouble getting it to shift into gear and stay in. I used some old copper pipe to make bushings on mine, because it used to jump out of gear.
To properly attach your shift linkage, put the shifter and the trans mounted shift levers in neutral. Loosen the locking clamps so the shift rods slide freely. start with the reverse lever, which is the inner most rod on the shifter and tighten the rod nut against the swivel. Then tighten the lock nut. Do the same with the 1-2 rod on the middle rod on the shifter and then the 3-4 which is the outside rod . This should set you up, according to Chilton.
They note that if the tranny is 68 Camero Muncie the shift rods need to be shortened 3 complete turns of the lock nut.
Hope some of this helps.
the linkage has slipped and is not in the notch on the shift lever so slide he shift lever into place then tighten the bolt down so it will hold the shifter on the trasnmisson, this is caused by a loose nut on the shifter nut.
NOTE: Remove the shift ball only if the shift ball, boot or lever (7E067) is being replaced. Removal
Raise vehicle on hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
Prior to removing the control lever assembly (7E069), be sure the shifter is in the 2H position.
Loosen (do not remove) the nut retaining the shift handle (7E067) to the control lever assembly (7E069). Remove the shift handle (7E067) from the control lever assembly (7E069).
Remove the vent hose (7D494) from the notch in the detent plate.
Remove the control rod (7A315) from the control lever assembly (7E069).
CAUTION: When removing the control rod (7A315) off the control lever assembly (7E069), do so very gently so as not to damage the control lever assembly.
Loosen (do not remove) the large pivot bolt holding the control lever assembly (7E069) to the detent plate.
Swing the control lever assembly (7E069) out of the way and remove the two bolts (39129-S2) retaining the detent plate to the transmission extension housing. Remove the entire control lever assembly from the vehicle.
Prior to installing the control lever assembly, be sure the transfer case link (7B106) is in the 2H position (pointing upward).
Install the two bolts (39129-S2) to retain the control lever assembly (7E069) to the transmission extension housing and tighten to 92-125 Nm (68-92 ft-lb). Refer to the following illustration for bolt hole application.
Attach the control rod (7A315) to the control lever assembly (7E069).
Tighten the large pivot bolt to 92-125 Nm (68-92 ft-lb).
Attach the vent hose (7D494) into the notch in the detent plate so the white mark is flush to the outside surface of the plate.
Install the shift handle (7E067) into the control lever assembly (7E069). Tighten the retaining nut to 27-38 Nm (20-28 ft-lb).
Check transfer case for proper shifting and operation.
Follow the shifter linkage back from the forward controls to the shift lever going into the transmission. Make sure the joints and bolts in the linkage are tight. My guess is the shift lever is loose on the shaft. If so, there is an allen head bolt that secures the shift lever to the shifter shaft. The shift lever is split and the allen head bolt is a pinch bolt. It's kinda hard to get to, but an allen head socket, short extension, and a rachet will work. Make sure this bolt is tight. Use a little penetrating oil before trying to tighten it. If it won't tighten, try taking the bolt out, chase the threads in the shift lever with a tap, and replace the bolt with a new one.