Question about Washing Machines

Open Question

F73 code The bearings failed on the outer tube. So I replaced bearings. reassemble machine and now when I went to test applied power and fault F73 appears. I read a few comments on line that when the control is disconnected from the control the unit an becomes compromised. To me make no sense; regardless of what makes sense the best I could do after rechecking all connections was to purchase a new control panel. However end up with same result F73 even after 3 controls and one timer control. What gives?

Posted by on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 641 Answers

SOURCE: 417.4405200 not spinning at the end of wash cycles

Does the washer was loaded when you make the diagnnostic test ?

Posted on Jul 20, 2007

  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: GE Double Oven doors locked and circuit not responding

Hi, well this is a brain tester!! I think you need really to look at this in a simple way. Check to see where the door lock wires come from first? Find where the mains power comes into? then if it goes directly to the main control board then check to see if there is any power getting through the board to the otherside where the wires disapear into the cooker. I would consider checking the control board for any signs of burn damage and then look at the clock unit to as these are normally the main components in the cooker that will stop it from working.
Good luck,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 417. 4405200 Front Load Washer error code E43

It's a bad wax motor inside the door latch. The diagnostics are buggy and do not test it properly. It should measure about 1.5K ohms, and when 120 VAC is applied to it, it should extend in about a minute. Part number 12002535 is $10 to $15.

Posted on May 14, 2009

jasperoni
  • 203 Answers

SOURCE: vacuum testing on Mercedes diesel 123 chassis not making sense

Everything on this vehicle is vacuum operated. going into the vehicle at the left rear of engine compartment there are color coded vac. lines-green a/c,yellow central locking,black shutoff diaphragm, clear source, yellow w/red stripe reservoir. any one of these could be a potential leak of vac. On diesel engines they have too high of compression to produce vac. so M.B. put a vac. pump on the front of the engine which is driven by your camshaft. Usually engine vac. changes rapidly with throttle position but because this vac. is not as easily controlled there is a separate control valve called a aneroid compensator that meters the vac. to your modulator on your transmission. It can be adjusted but it requires a special tool( basically it is a dial wheel that fits onto the post of the compensater). I would first make sure your rubber grommet is not torn on your modulator valve. If it is it will need to be replaced. If you remove that grommet you will see a metal plunger which can be grabbed with needle nose pliers and rotated to the left or right. I believe right is a firmer shift and left is a softer shift. stat by rotating approx. 1/2 turn to the left and see how the shifting feels. My first suggestion is to unplug the green and yellow vac. lines and see if the trans. shifts better. On your valve cover is a lever labeled off in case you lose vac. to the shutoff diaphragm. Become familiar with that lever so you can shutoff your engine in case you accidentally unplug the shutoff valve. you will probably find either your central locking or a/c system is the root of the problem.

Posted on May 29, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: MFC-440CN: Prints but does not scan

Go to system/computer control panel, select "scanners and cameras". you should see your brother system in there (if u were able to print to it but not scan). Right click on it, select properties, and select "Network Properties" Tab. Choose select "specify your machine by address" rather by "by name". Most home/home office users dont have a local domain server at home, so even though your printer was named, it cannot be located by tcp-ip using the name, but rather by ipaddress. This solves the issue.

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

CLUNKING NOISE AS DRUM GOES ROUND


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Aug 23, 2011 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine is banging when washing....sounds like the bearings,can i fix it?


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. If problem you describe is the main bearing on the drum being worn out, (allowing the inner drum to "flop about").

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Aug 03, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The tub is loose


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 29, 2011 | Frigidaire GLTF1240A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Drum floppingfrankhenderson90@gmail.com


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. Taking the two words you have given as a problem statement, the problem is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about ?£20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 07, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Replaced the clutch after diagnosing it on this website. It now spins freely with one finger. Started a load and it makes this WINDING up sound (like a jet) and then comes back down then goes into a...


""Replaced the clutch after diagnosing it on this website"" I assune you followed this post http://www.fixya.com/support/t2070219-model_fav6800aww_will_not_pump_water_out


The one finger rotational test of the wash basket CCW is to check OuterTub bearing resistance/drag. I think you are describing Outer Tub bearing noise" "makes this WINDING up sound (like a jet)""

Big job to replace the Outer Tub bearings but has been done by me an other owners on this site. You replaced the clutch so I assume a lot of rust which means a Tub Seal leak. All can be repaired for under a $100 if you want to go thru the effort to save your $1K machine.

I'll offer this suggestion. Put the machine Service Mode and run the Quick Spin Test. Record the results.....will the machine spin up to .85 on the LED display for 850 RPM? Or does it fail to spin up. Do this test with and without the wet wash load. If it fails to pass the test then I feel you have increased Outer Tub bearing resistance.

I'm only posting this much info because you put in the effort to get to this point. I'll help you if you want to continue at a different DIY forum. Google "Appliance Repair Forums" and look for my post under dh1200s at any of the major DIY forums. I will not post anymore technical support on this site..... to much trouble to post pics amd links for support.

Oct 20, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a load squeaky sound on my FAV6800AWW washer. THe machine spin but when is starts agitating, the sqeaky sound can be heard.


This could be the start of Outer Tub Bearing issue.


Raise the lid of your washer and rotate the wash basket CCW as fast as you can. Does is spin down slowly to a gentle stop after several revolutions with no bearing noise?

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

I would by removing the Clutch Pulley and check for One-Way Roller clutches bearing wash water contamination. That will give you a feel for the integrity of the Tub Seal. See my Clutch Fix post for support.

If this is Outer Tub Bearing noise you will have to replace them along with the Tub Seal and Tranny O-ring. The Series 16 machine (I have that one also doesn’t use the upper Clutch bearing ring. That upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing is integrated into one of the Outer Tub bearings.

See this post. This guy bothered me for his statement that I left him hanging. I’m a DIY’er not a appliance tech and most AT’s won’t touch this with a 10 foot poll due to lack of knowledge. I did replace the Outer Tub bearings on a ebay win Series 10 machine. See this post for the details of that.

Don’t get too excited by any of this. 1st determine if the squeaky noise is Outer Tub bearing noise I haven’t had them fail yet but I would suspect you will hear metal against metal grinding of the ball bearings in the bearing race. There will be down time for the tear down and work. You need to determine if this is worth it for your situation. No more than a $85 to replace Outer Tub bearings tub seal tranny o-ring and buy Maytag Spinner Nut removal tool for reassembly and you extend the service life of your $1K machine.
If you want to DIY further let me know……Rich

Jun 12, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

How to change the rear bearings in my 1997 grand cherokee limited


YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE MAKE SURE ITS ON A SOLID LEVEL GROUND.THEN YOU REMOVE THE WHEELS THE BRAKE DRUM OR DISC.THEN YOU REMOVE THE NUTS THAT ATTACH THE OUTER SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE BACKING PLATETO THE AXLE SHAFT TUBE.DISCARD THE NUTS.REMOVE AXLE SHAFT FROM HOUSING.WITH AN AXLE PULLER ATTACHED TO A SLIDE HAMMER.DISCARD INNER AXLE SEALPOSITION THE AXLE SHAFT IN A VISE.REMOVE THE RETAINING RING BY DRILLING A 1/4 HOLE ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH THE RING. THEN USING A COLD CHISEL OVER THE HOLE.SPLIT THE RING.REMOVE THE BEARING WITH A ARBOR PRESS DISCARD THE SEAL AND REMOVE THE RETAINER PLATE.TO INSTALL - CLEAN THEN APPLY A THIN COATING OF WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE BEARING AND SEAL CONTACT SURFACES APPLY WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE LIPS OF THE REPLACEMENT INNER AND OUTER SEALS.INSTALL THE INNER SEAL WITH THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACING INWARD ENSURE IT IS COMPLETELY SEATED.INSTALL THE RETAINER PLATE AND THE OUTER SEAL ON THE SHAFT.ENSURE THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACES TOWARD THE AXLE SHAFT BEARING.PACK THE REPLACEMENT BEARING WITH WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT AND POSITION ON THE AXLE SHAFT PRESS INTO PLACE.PRESS A REPLACEMENT BEARING RETAINER ON THE AXLE SHAFT AGAINST THE BEARING.INSTALL THE AXLE INTO THE AXLE TUBE.POSITION AND ALIGN THE SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE AND INSTALL REPLACEMENT ATTACHING NUTS.TIGHTEN NUTS TO 32 FT LBS.INSTALL BRAKE ASSEMBLY WHEELS LOWER VECHICLE. YOU SAID REAR BEARINGS IF THIS WHAT YOU MEANT.I HOPE THIS CAN HELP.

Apr 12, 2010 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Machine will not stop filling with water Simpson Encore 703 washing machine


Does machine stop filling if you discnnect from power? If it does, the problem lies with timer/control unit, or fault in pressure switch/ tube. Check pressure tube (thin rubber pipe that goes from water level selctor switch to side of outer bowl) for holes- replace if faulty. You can test pressure switch by remove pressure tube from outer bowl and blowing thru tube- you should hear the water level switch click when you blow, and then click again when you release pressure.   If it keeps filling even with power off, you have a faulty inlet valve. If you remove top panel (3 screws along top rear-power off first!!), you will see the inlet valves- one for hot, one for cold. The valve is the thing the inlet hoses screw onto. New valves availble from any good spare parts supplier, relatively inexpensive part. Good luck!!

Mar 13, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

We have a 2 part canister vacuum cleaner by GE. the roll brush spins, but as soon as it hits the floor it doesn't seem to have enough power to keep spinning. It is TOTALLY cleaned out.


Remove the brush assembly from the sweeper head--remove the end bearings (noting placement) and remove all thread, string, and hair that is wound around the brush and it's ends. Clean the pin bearing ends and the insides of the outer bearings with WD-40 and a Q-Tip or similar. Apply one drop of light oil (3-1 or similar) to each outer bearing and reassemble. If the drive belt has not been replaced, do so. Clean both the motor shaft and the belt path on the brush with rubbing alcohol. Make sure the belt is reinstalled as the original was. Hope this helps!

Dec 05, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Outer tub bearings are gone


My bearings went out too and I found this site http://www.neptunebearing.com/ Ordered the bearings and the Tony Tool. My son and I replaced the bearings in about 2 hours!

Apr 03, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

23 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Washing Machines Experts

Gerry Harvey
Gerry Harvey

Level 3 Expert

1460 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75822 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

15557 Answers

Are you a Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...