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GE WJRE5550H1WW agitates slowly

My wash machine agitates back and forth and takes a whole second to swish one way and a whole second to swish the other way. The last 5 to 8 seconds of the wash cycle it agitates at what I think is a normal speed. This is a consistent behavior. In my mind if the coupler was bad I don't think it would consistently agitate normally the last 8 seconds. From reading other posts I'm leaning toward maybe the shifter or timer.? Not sure.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Inglis Washing Machine agitator not working right

replaced timer problem solved thanks

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: Squeaking/grinding/rattle noise during wash and spin

That sounds like a clutch problem - probably just worn and need replacement. Will definitely need to pull to find exact fault.

Regards

Posted on Nov 16, 2008

Bfsas1
  • 258 Answers

SOURCE: agitator doesn't spin during wash cycle

If The washer won't agitate
Check to make sure no clothing got wrapped around the agitator. Check the lid switch, timer, and drive belt, other potential causes, such as a bad transmission or bad agitate/spin solenoid, but they are much more involved.
if the washer won't spin, the lid switch, timer, drive belt, transmission, or agitate/spin solenoid could be the cause here as well. Sometimes if the load is unbalanced or too heavy, the washer won't spin. Take some of the clothes out and try the spin cycle again with a lighter load.

Here are the steps to replace the agitator.
1: Take the fabric softener dispenser off and pry off the agitator lid.
2: Use a socket wrench with an extension bar to remove the stud and seal.
3: Remove the agitator top and bottom.
4: Check the agitator clutch assembly (located in the agitator top) for excessive wear.
5: To replace, just reverse the directions.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: Knocking noise during agitation cycle - GE WNSR2100T8WW

I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

FixinFax
  • 3085 Answers

SOURCE: my maytag mod #mvwc6esww1 [bought refurbished

Yes, this is a normal function, the washer is actually figuring out the best way to wash the clothes.

Posted on Nov 25, 2009

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1 Answer

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3 Answers

Squeaking Top Load GE Washer


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1 Answer

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