My GC-340 won't disassemble. The back wheels even when the lever is pulled do not disengage. it is the first time I've tried to disassemble it. when it arrived there were several security straps so i wonder if there is another safety feature for shipping that prevents it from separated.

remove rear cover and check linkage /lever on trans axle

rock the mower back and forth hard may need three people for this rock it till you pull the lever out for disengage

If this is a manual engagment system all the lever does is to pull a jockey wheel into the back of the belt to tention it thus starting the blades to turn, so either the cable is jammed that pulls the jockey wheel in, or the jockey wheel arm is seized and needs freeing off to allow the jockey to to move to the relaxed position.

For the wire to come all the way out lever on top of the trans must be broken. I've seen a few. Jack rear of mower up, remove rear right wheel and find remnants of lever. With pliers turn this all the way forward, mower will now go. But to fit new lever trans will have to be removed. Dont forget the axle key.

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

Watch the clutch release mechanism on the right side of the bike as you pull the clutch lever in. You should see it turn and move inwards. It won't move much but it should move. You should also feel a resistance in the clutch lever as it compresses the springs in the clutch. If you feel this, and the clutch still does not release, your clutch plates may be stuck together. You '67 model has a dry clutch in it. Once you get the primary cover off, you'll have to take the cover off the clutch to take the nuts off the studs. Then you can disassemble the clutch and free up the plates. Make sure you replace the gasket under the cover. If oil gets into the clutch, it'll drag. You can try putting your transmission in high gear with the engine off. Hold the clutch lever in and rock the bike back and forth. This may break the plates lose. If the lever has no resistance to it, you may need to adjust the clutch release by loosening the lock nut and turning the screw inwards until it stops. Back off one quarter turn. If you cannot get and resistance even doing that, you've got something missing in the assembly of the clutch.

Good Luck
Steve

To engage the four wheel drive, while rolling, pull the lever back one notch and that will engage the transfer case. You can easily do that up to speeds as high as 35mph. Pulling the lever all the way back will put it into 4 low which is not often used and may grind if it does not engage right away. That really doesn't matter much because that gear is only used for pulling heavy loads at low speeds. (I use mine about once every two years) If you do need to use it, generally you can engage it with the engine off without problems. The neutral position is used to disengage the wheels if the vehicle needs to be towed. If it fails to disengage, often backing up about twenty feet or so will help.

Maybe the drive wheel is disengaged. Some machines have you pull out the wheel on the right to wind a bobbin and yours might be pulled out. Try pushing the wheel back in to engage the machine.

Purge the transaxle by pulling the freewheel lever at the back of the transaxle.With the lever in the freewheel position run the engine full speed with clutch out,work the forward/reverse control back and forth 10 times and then try it.Also make sure that if you had the wheels of that you didn't lose a wheel key.

Hi
a;; you need tp do is loosen the cable slightly to the self drive mechanism