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Re: how do I replace the switch lid part
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
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Remove power to the unit.
Locate the console and remove two phillips head screws. Most
models have them in the front, bottom of the console. In some of the newer models they are located in the back, bottom of the console. Some washers require you to remove two end caps on the console to access the screws.
After you remove the two screws, slide the console slightly forward and then up. The console will then hinge to the back of the washer.
With the console now hinged back, locate the lid switch harness.
Disconnect the harness and check for resistance between the 2 grey wires (outside) on the lid switch connector connected to top of washer. With the lid down the circuit should read no resistance. If the circuit is open(infinite resistance) then the switch needs to be replaced. You can also use a insulated jumper on the lid switch harness to determine if its the switch.
To replace the lid switch you will now have to remove the cabinet. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the two clips holding the back of the washer to the outer shell of the washer.
Disconnect the lid switch harness(If not still disconnected).
You can now pull the outer shell away from the washer. Do this by
grasping the outer shell (I open the lid and grab it there.) and tilt the shell forward (toward you) and out. The shell is now removed and you can see the tub. Be careful not to bend the outside walls of the shell when removing and setting aside. This will help greatly when reinstalling the shell. Remove the 2 screws attaching switch to cabinet. Remove the screw connecting the ground on the cabinet. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push tabs on lid switch connector block to remove. Finally remove the whole harness from the 2 remaining retainer clips under the cabinet. Install new lid switch harness assembly and reassemble washer.
if you don't hear the motor running you have a bad lid switch,if you do hear the motor but no agitation you have a broken motor coupling. most likely you have a broken lid switch,close the lid,then open it around 6 inches,close it and open it a few times,as you do this if you don't hear a clicking sound the switch is bad,part number 8054980 and it's around 25 dollars. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZAbg9uftos&feature=BFa&list=PL946F2AC904989088 watch this video, when you click on it look down on the left side it will say replacing new style,click on it and it will show you your model.it will show you how to make sure it's the lid switch but if you don't hear any clicking when you open and close the lid the switch is bad,also if the lid is pushed in from putting the laundry basket on top of it open the lid and wack the center of the lid to pop it back up,i've done this before when the lid is dented in and this fixes the problem,the arm that's connected to the lid doesn't hit the switch correctly with the lid dented in but usually the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU watch the first part of this video and it will show you how to open the top console,this is different from your lid switch this is just to get you into the top so you can change the switch.good luck,if you need anymore help let me know and i hope this helps you out
most likely you have a broken lid switch,close the lid,then open it around 6 inches,close it and open it a few times,as you do this if you don't hear a clicking sound the switch is bad,part number 8054980 and it's around 25 dollars. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZAbg9uftos&feature=BFa&list=PL946F2AC904989088 watch this video, when you click on it look down on the left side it will say replacing new style,click on it and it will show you your model.it will show you how to make sure it's the lid switch but if you don't hear any clicking when you open and close the lid the switch is bad,also if the lid is pushed in from putting the laundry basket on top of it open the lid and wack the center of the lid to pop it back up,i've done this before when the lid is dented in and this fixes the problem,the arm that's connected to the lid doesn't hit the switch correctly with the lid dented in but usually the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU watch the first part of this video and it will show you how to open the top console,this is different from your lid switch this is just to get you into the top so you can change the switch.good luck,if you need anymore help let me know and i hope this helps you out
This is a broken lid switch . You can replace the lid switch or if you need to get it working quickly you can bi pass the switch by unplugging the washer, removing the 2 lid latch screws, pulling out the switch cutting the 2 wires and twist them together with a wire nut.
This is assuming you do not have the self locking lid.But I don't think your model has that function.
Most likely your lid switch.Is there a small hole were lid closes try pushing down with pencil through that hole with timer turned on. if you here a click unit should work..if you don;t see a hole then the lid switch is enclosed .Try that first get back if you need more help tell you how to replace..Thanks for voting
If it does not drain or spin, the most likely cause is the lid switch. There are two screws holding the control panel on. Remove them, slide
it forward about a half inch, and it will flip up on hinges. Unplug the
lid switch (in the center where it goes through the case), pop the 2
clips off that hold the pack to the case, and the case will pull right
off. The back does not come off. And be sure to UNPLUG the machine first. Then you can replace the lid switch that is in the case, under the top. Of course assuming it is the lid switch that is causing your problem. If the motor hums and will not spin, there is probably a sock or something in the pump jamming it. You will need to remove the 2 hoses on the pump to check that. Once you have the case off, you will see it.
Hey Don, If you removed the cabinet to get to your pump, you had to unplug the wire that connects to your lid switch. Did you make sure to plug the lid switch plug back into it's plug-in on top of your cabinet under control panel when you re-installed the cabinet. Your washer won't spin or pump water if this is the case. I'd check that first, then check the lid switch itself for proper operation. Happy to help, Tim. please don't forget to rate my help. Thanks.
Joe, You are going to have to replace that left lid lock, Left Lid Lock.You don’t need to replace the right just unplug.Here is what is happen.The left lid lock and right lid lock “Lid is Locked” signaling are in parallel going back to the control board that is why you need to pull the plug on the right lid lock after replacing the left lid lock.The lid locks are designed to latch into the lid only a small amount with them broken off the mechanism over shoots and a signaling slide switch contact signals the control board the lid is not locked “FL” code. The left lid lock assembly is the important one with its dual signaling function, Reed relay and lid magnet to signal the lid is closed and the “Lid Is Locked” signaling.If you don’t replace the right lid lock (I would not) tape up the plug and try to secure the wiring harness to prevent the wires from chafing.I think you have the manual and Sears Parts direct info from my previous post but just in case;The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Unplug and remove back panel and on left side while facing back panel left top corner. It appears in print having two sheet metal screws coming through top to hold the switch in place. Looks a little tight but I don't think you will have a big problem replacing.
If you have any problems let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze