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if your asking will a new salt system clean my pool from a preseason condition , well no not really , salt systems are for maintaining a healthy pool water thru the season , see they use the salt ions to make chlorine , so I guess technically yes but it would take ten times longer to do it and by then the salt would be all used up (converted) , its much easier to use common pool chemicals to "start up" the pool then after a healthy chemistry is achieved then switch over to salt system , and even after u switch always keep an eye on your water chemistry(testing ) and your never will be surprised by an upset !!
depending on the salt system you are using, the amount of salt will vary. the owners manual should have a salt table with a recommended value. most salt systems will require somewhere close to a 3000 ppm level. to get this, you will need approximately 140 kg of salt. (65 lbs)
it is showing your status aqua pure is set at 100% salt is at 4500 parts per million which is too high to operate should be between 2700 and 3400 to work properly you need to drain some water out and add fresh to dilute the salt general fault is because salt level is too high it is showing your filter pump and extra aux is on go to the equipment on on main screen it will give you a list of all your equipment any questions send me more info
Test your salt level with a Taylor salt kit to see what the actuall PPM is. You should be betwen 3200 and 3700. There is that possibility that your cell has developed a fault. Kit available at your pool supply place.
The two green colors may be associated somehow but when you say anything about green water I think it is more likely the water is turning green from algae. The best way to rule this out is to test the chlorine level and then shock with vinyl shock to about 10 ppm. If it is algae then the it may be cloudy but should turn more blue rather than green. If other chemistry is good such as salt concentration and stabilizer then running the pump, filter and chlorinator according to the Intex manual. When a pool is shocked the filter can get dirty quickly and then reduce the flow. For this reason make sure you clean the filter. I hope this helps.
If the water tastes salty then there is too much salt in it. The amount of stabilizer is very important too. If it is low then any chlorine the generates will be gone when the sun hits it. Stabilizer is a chemical that has an affinity for chlorine
ions and if it is not there the chlorine can be dissipated in a few hours
when the sun hits it. Another name for it is Cyanuric Acid. It can be
purchased in granular form at many pool supply stores or in a liquid
form at Leslies. In order to get your pool blue you need
to have the chemistry checked at a pool store or with a test kit
(either liquid or strips). Don't buy everything a pool supply tells you
to buy but start out with vinyl
safe shock, stabilizer and salt. The pool store should be able to help
you determine the dose. The following is what I would do:
1. Make sure salt is at the recommended concentration.
2. Shock the pool to recommended dose to start killing the algae.
3. Place the recomended dose of stabilizer in the pool.
4. Make sure pump and filter are working properly.
5. Check the pool chemistry on a daily basis until it is ready for swimming.
6. Check the chemistry on a weekly basis and clean the pool and equipment according to the pool instructions.
For starters I would bring a sample of your water to a pool store and they usually test it for free. They will then make recommendations. Be certain that everything you add to a pool is necessary based on the test results. If you are draining or partially draing the pool then sometimes chemicals recommended by the pool supply store will not be necessary. The following is what I would do to keep a pool blue: 1. Make sure salt is at the recommended concentration. 2. Only shock the pool to if the chloring level has droped below about 2 ppm. 3. Place the recomended dose of stabilizer in the pool. 4. Make sure pump and filter are working properly. 5. Check the pool chemistry on a daily basis for about a week to. I recommend test strips that at least measure chlorine, Ph and stabilizer. 6. Check the chemistry on a weekly basis and clean the pool and equipment according to the pool instructions.
The recommended amount of salt is just a guide> You say yours is ideal
would that be 3000ppm and are you using test strips for salt that are 3 reading or color reading
Go with # reading they are most accurate any lower than 2800ppm and you will not generate enough chlorine and could trigger low salt code any higher than 3500 and it will taste bad and could trigger high salt alarm
when adjusting salt you need to filter only for 24 hours before trying to generate chlorine
I have never cleaned my electro cell
other chemicals should include a non foaming algaecide once a week follow direction for your gallons of water
Also chlorine stabilizer once a month or so depending on conditions this helps hold the chlorine level
and a water clarifier this helps the minute particals clump together thus being possible for the paper filter to catch it.
The paper cartriges let to much small debris through that you cant see
The key to using an intex system is filter filter filter if you do not filter enough you will next go green and that is a nightmare
Have 2 filters so that while one is being used the other has been blasted out with a garden hose and drying An inserted dry filter works better than a freshly cleaned wet one
I have had the same 2 filters for this being my 4th season
I run mine 24/7 it is like keeping a 40 watt bulb on