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FGFLZ87GC GAS RANGE TOP BURNERS WORK - OVEN AND BROILER DO NOT,IGNITORS WORK BUT NO GAS TO BURNERS,NO CODES ON PANEL

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Oven does not heat

I am having the same problem right before the holiday...can this be by myself or do I need a technician??

Posted on Dec 16, 2007

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  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: GAS STOVE

yep replace the bottom ignightor take out the rackes remove the two bott screws in the oven remove the bottom plate and just keep going down

Posted on May 21, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: JGBP33 BAKE IGNITOR

You did not post a complete model number, but this should help:
Take racks out of oven. Remove two screws at the very back of the oven bottom. Lift back side of bottom up and back a bit to remove oven floor. Remove flame spreader (one nut at center). ignitor is at the back left of burner, most likely a WB2X9154 (round style) ignitor. The entire burner can be removed rather easily at this point if you remove the two screws at the front and disconnect the ignitor wire (if you wish to have easier access to ignitor mounting screws.)

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool super capacity 465 gas range model# sf377pegq5

I have the same problem intermittently on my Super Cap 465. After reading the following quote from another site, "There have been cases where radio waves, electronic signals and sometimes something as strange as dimmers in lights have caused some weird problems with some computer panels in stoves like these", I tried turning off lights that might be on the same circuit and wouldn't you know it, the oven igniter circuit worked.

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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1. Sears Kenmore Gas Range 2. Model No: 362.75481890 The oven will not ignite. The igniter-oven burner will glow but the gas will never start to flow. This has gradually occurred and has now come to...


Hello Everett,

The problem beleive it or not is that the bake ignitor is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake ignitor(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when set to bake ignitor by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of ignitor make sure only one wire,either one and not both.
if amp draw less than that replace bake ignitor. If you dont have amp meter take my word for it since in my 30 years appliance repair career i have when the ignitor comes on, that it's weak, to be the problem 100% of the time

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My Maytag Gemini Gas Range works fine as far as the four burners, the bake on the top and bottom oven, but the broiler on the top oven does not work. Is this a pilot issue? I really appreciate the help,...


If the broiler burner is not coming on it may be a bad ignitor or the ignitor may not be getting power. Observe the ignitor when you turn in on ans see if it glows at all. If not then test for power to the ignitor if you have power and not glowing or lighting replace the ignitor. If it glows but does not light the ignitor may just be weak replace it.

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Hi,
The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663023-oven_not_working_or_oven_not_heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter http://www.fixya.com/support/r4572625-oven_problems_replacing_igniter

heatman101

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Hi, it sounds like the oven ignitor might be bad. Remove the floor panel inside the oven and you will see the ignitor attached to the burner assembly. Turn the oven on and see if it glows. You can test the connection for the ignitor and see if it gets 120V to it. The most common problem with the gas oven is the ignitor. Most of the time, the ignitor glows but is not strong enough to open the gas valve.
Please let me know if this was helpfull or if I can assist you further.

Thanks
Vic

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Broiler doesn't lite, no gas going to pilot


Most cases Broiler ignitor is out, after you turn on the Broiler, check the voltage on Broiler ignitor 2 wires, if you have approx. 110v, then change the ignitor, but you don't have 110v, then check Broiler safety valve and oven thermostat, but 90% of the time is the Broiler ignitor. Have fun.

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OK, it is likley that the oven ignitor isn't working and needs to be replaced. To verify if this is the problem, when you turn on the oven to BAKE and set the temp at say, 350. Watch through the window, (or you can have the door open). Look at the bottom, back, center and see if you see a bright orange glow appearing under the bottom panel.

If you don't, that is why the oven won't lit the gas. There is an ignitor for both the broiler burner at the top and for the bake burner in the oven compartment.

The good news is that your oven uses the same ignitor for both the broiler and bake burner tubes, so you could swap them if you wish to confirm that is the problem before you go and order/buy a new one. These aren't cheap at $91 bucks, but you can shop around the web for a better price if you determine you need one.

Please note that sometimes the ignitor burns out half way through but because it still lits/glows, people think it's OK, but it won't get hot enough to signal the gas valve to open and allow gas to ignite and get the oven cooking. That's why it's always a good idea to swap ignitors to verify you have a faulty one.

If you want to see what the part is for your oven, go to searspartsdirect.com and enter in your model number to view the line drawing for your oven along with the parts list.

Hope that helps and best regards!

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More than likely a bad ignitor
Here is how to tell If the ignitor is glowing it should be VERY bright, if it is dim orange it is weak and bad.
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2 Answers

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Check both gas valve solonoids for 216 ohms [blue broiler wire to the orange common and red oven wire to orange common] both must be ok.

Check oven temp sensor for 1080 ohms.

If above are ok then the problem is either the spark module or the control board.

Since the gas valve was not opening and there was not ignitor sound I replaced the spark module for about $90. You have a 50-50 chance of being right.

My range is relitively new and I'm haveing an oven light problem which I traced to the control board so I may replaced this board to for about $200.

HS

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