Some of the joints of the drawers have become separated; the sides of the drawers are wood, and the bottoms are like a strong cardboard. There's still a bead of the original glue by the joints; does this need to be removed before regluing and clamping? I hope not, because this may mean more effort than it's worth. Any recommendations on what type of glue to use? It takes considerable force to rejoin the pieces, so the glue must be strong.
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Re: drawers coming apart
I answered this once but I don't see my response here, so here goes...Get some Elmer's exterior wood glue. It is waterproof, easy to use and it is cheap. I'd suggest at least sanding the joints, but I've left the old glue before, since it didn't interfere with the joint refitting tightly.
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
Bottom drawer & bottom freezers are nightmares. Next time but a side by side or top freezer.
Ok, lets fix this. Using a hair dryer defrost all of the ice around the door. Next, you have a rack and pinion assembly that the drawer rides on. This also is iced up. Defrost the rack & pinion.
When you close the drawer you will probably have a gap on one side. This is caused from the ice build up and the rack and pinion jumping a tooth.
Where the side is that has the gap, you must lift the drawer and jerk hard towards the gap to jump a rack and pinion on the opposite side. You may have to repeat this. It is a strong arm operation.
Elmer's exterior wood glue is the favorite, I don't recommend plain Elmer's white glue because it isn't waterproof. You should at least sand down where the joints meet. Removing the glue is best for a longer term repair, but I admit I've taken the short route a few times. Many people think epoxy or superglue will work, and it might for a few days. Wood glue is cheaper. If you can't clamp your joint then put it on it's side and stack about 25 pounds of stuff on top of it. Books work well, or something that weighs about as much as a car battery.
yes it would need to be removed ,,, scrape of the excess and use a low grit sand paper to make it quicker ........ usually how wood joints work is the glue makes the male joint expand inthe female joint making a very strong bond . for this you need to make sure all old glue is removed so the wood is exposed again so the glue can be absorbed into the wood ... pva glue works well , ask at your diy store they will be able to suggest a good adhesive. if you dont want to clean it maybe a modern adhesive like no nails may work too .... good luck
yes why not. I would try ripping some plywood strips to fit in the separating area, both side's and either; drill through and bolt it together, or drive some wood screw's through. Hard to say for sure with out a detail picture of the separation point.
you're in a bad spot. you will need to remove top metal panel of washer; and carefully separate the drawer housing a little and wiggle the drawer out. one of the compartments in the drawer popped up and jammed the drawer.
Yes,remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the docfeeder,then the lower side of the dockfeeder will come apart.Remove the tention spring of the separation and lift the separation upwarts,then you can install the new separation.
Maytag uses two types of door handle mounts. first look at the bottom side of door handle to see if there are tiny set screws. If there is you might just have to tighten them with an allen wrench. If it doesn't you need to grasp the handle firmly and pull it towards your left, sometimes they can be a little stubburn and require a light wrap with a rubber mallet. This will remove the handle. In this case there will be a clip inside the handle end, check to see if it is bent or if the handle itself is cracked, although I have seen some where the handle mount has become loose and that can be tighted by turning clockwise.