Some of the joints of the drawers have become separated; the sides of the drawers are wood, and the bottoms are like a strong cardboard. There's still a bead of the original glue by the joints; does this need to be removed before regluing and clamping? I hope not, because this may mean more effort than it's worth. Any recommendations on what type of glue to use? It takes considerable force to rejoin the pieces, so the glue must be strong.
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Re: joints in dresser drawer need re-glued
Elmer's exterior wood glue is the favorite, I don't recommend plain Elmer's white glue because it isn't waterproof. You should at least sand down where the joints meet. Removing the glue is best for a longer term repair, but I admit I've taken the short route a few times. Many people think epoxy or superglue will work, and it might for a few days. Wood glue is cheaper. If you can't clamp your joint then put it on it's side and stack about 25 pounds of stuff on top of it. Books work well, or something that weighs about as much as a car battery.
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post a pic. Is this the right section?
For a wood dresser - check the runners on the sides (pull drawer all the way out. Humidity really affects the wood. Try a little dry bar soap and rub on the rails (it will help lubricate)
We all have one of those old wooden dressers or kitchen silverware drawer that drives us nuts because it catches. I now an a very easy solution that does not require installing a ball bearing set of slides though the end result is pretty close.
The old way used to be to remove the drawer and sand/wax the runners (wear surfaces).
The most difficult part of this is properly removing the drawer. Some simply flop out, their contents all over the floor. Other have stops to prevent this. Here's how to handle those:
Drawer Removal ----------------------- Do this by releasing the latch at the back of the drawer. Some push in (spring models like on Singer Sewing machine drawers)and on really ancient antique furniture they are simply gravity operated. A stick of wood that has a small part sticking up and a much larger heavier part below attached by a single screw. It pivots on this screw. So rotate it 90 degrees either left or right then gently remove the drawer, supporting it underneath.
Ultimately it is best to remove all the drawer contents FIRST since you will be for the next step anyway. Better it on the table than all over the floor!
You will need one product to make this work. You go to your local hw store or home center and buy any teflon spray THAT DRIES. It must dry and not stay wet.
Carefully spray the bottom runners of the drawers with a light coat. If you're worried about the finish use a piece of shirt cardboard against the side of the runner so no overspray hits the finish. If you are uncomfortable and the item is expensive, just mask off the sides with newspaper.
But with a little practice and keeping the nozzle very close (1/2 to 1 inch) away from the drawer side runner bottom you will be able to do this easily.
Hitting the inside of the drawer also helps but is not neccessary.
The the spray dry (usually white) before reinstalling. Slide it back and forth many times. Remove and respray any area that are not white anymore -- the product wore onto the wear surfaces in the dresser. This is a good thing.
After doing this most drawers will slide almost as well as if you had spent $40-$100 on a set of professional slides like the new kitchen drawers have.
I did this on a 1950s dresser I refinished and I am just amazed at how well it works. I invented/discovered it just by experimenting with it on wood.
This compares favorably to my first drawer I built in woodworking shop in school. I spent hours sanding that from 180 to 220 to 320 and finally 400 sandpaper and then waxing it and buffing it. It slides well but the above proceedure is far less time consuming than this.
So go! Get a can of dry-setting teflon spray, available for around/under $5 at most home centers and do every drawer in the house! You're life will be so much easier.
I've done every drawer in my place, even a classic mahogany tambour type sliding door for a home entertainment center. That was a custom conversion from a 1960s B&W TV that I reused as a home entertainment center. It covers the system and has the class of real wood furniture. I mention this because I think this would also work on sticky tambour classic rolltop desks as well. I know they are getting repopular again for computer stations. I've seen them in the high end mailorder catalogs as well as custom designs in my favorite woodworking magazines.
But I came up with this tip all on my own. It started in my woodworking shop. Unfortunately now it won't let me put it in an appropriate catagory -- furniture drawers. Building is maybe the cloest?
Management: Maybe you can find the right catagory or create a furniture catagory? Or a Miscellaneous "Around the house" tip catagory. People who google the problem will still find it.
I answered this once but I don't see my response here, so here goes...Get some Elmer's exterior wood glue. It is waterproof, easy to use and it is cheap. I'd suggest at least sanding the joints, but I've left the old glue before, since it didn't interfere with the joint refitting tightly.
yes it would need to be removed ,,, scrape of the excess and use a low grit sand paper to make it quicker ........ usually how wood joints work is the glue makes the male joint expand inthe female joint making a very strong bond . for this you need to make sure all old glue is removed so the wood is exposed again so the glue can be absorbed into the wood ... pva glue works well , ask at your diy store they will be able to suggest a good adhesive. if you dont want to clean it maybe a modern adhesive like no nails may work too .... good luck